What can I use other than Weld-on to bond acrylic?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

MilitantPotato

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 19, 2006
722
2
48
Missouri, USA
I can't find the stuff localy and my sump is broken, what can I use to repair cracks/fractures in acrylic other than weld-on? I have a lowes, Home depo, ace hardware and a number of hobby shops around.

Thanks!
 
You can use 2 part epoxy resin (resin and hardener). However, the repair won't look as nice and the epoxy must be fully cured before contact with the same water your fish use.
 
Clear pvc glue will work too. If you are going to work on the inside of the sump, you will need to drain the sump first because you don't want the solvents to get back to your tank. They can be deadly to your fish.
 
Thanks for the quick responces.

I have thies three things
Loctite quick set epoxy -is this the correct epoxy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270033673117&category=28103
Oatley regular*clear cement (gold can)
Regular loctite superglue
A tube of GE I silicon

I also have a 2x2.5 sheet of acrylic (clear) that I have laying around from a PC case mod I never did (scrap) aswell as a brand new sheet.
So how do I get started? Here's some shots of the damage.

P.S. I HATE FEDEX!!!! :banhim: :cry: :FIREdevil

DSC01354.jpg

DSC01352.jpg

DSC01350.jpg
 
So do I whipe down the acrylic, sand it, then super glue/epoxy the cracks then glue the new acrylic sheet over the cracks to re-inforce or....?
 
You almost have the right idea. Sanding is not required. Get a small can of pvc cleaner and wipe both surfaces with it on a rag or paper towel. Experiment with it first on scrap or the bottom so that way you don't get unwanted rag fuz in the repair (for visual appeal only). Do all of the repairs on the outside since they are all flat surfaces. If the bottom repair is entirely accessable from the inside, do in there. If not, cut a piece of acrylic the size of the bottom so that it is evenly supported and remains flat. The other pieces, just cut them one or two inches larger than the repair area.

1. Turn the sump on its side so that the first repair is facing up.
2. Then clean the two surfaces, and allow to dry for about 60 seconds.
3. Glue both surfaces.
4. Join and add weight on top of repair piece (minimizes air bubbles).
5. Allow to dry for at least several hours before moving on to next repair.
 
Put the superglue back in the drawer. Most cyanoacrylate adhesives are not waterproof. Silicone doesn't adhere to acrylics. It only works as a gasket material with some other mechanical means holding the pieces in place. If you can't wait on the weld-on (also available from rplastics.com) use the clear PVC cement since it bonds most plastics. Then, follow Chomper's recommendations.

I can't offer any advise on the loctite epoxy since I've never worked with it. I've only ever used marine grade epoxies. I figure if they can repair boat hulls they can handle any fishroom jobs that come up.
 
Just a quick update before I crash.

The sump repaired fairly well, there was a 2x4" patch where the two sheets didn't meet, I put enough PVC cement to fill the gap and held it down for 5 mins as it hardened, seems to of worked well. Hopefully there isn't a risk of failure because of the gap filled with cement.

The sump has held water for 2 days now, and I've just finished plumbing the tank (major PITA.)

Didn't overflow when I killed the power, so far so good.

Thanks for the help!

If I get enough motivation I'll snap a few pictures of my piss poor plumb job, still need to recover after scooting a 75 gal with 100lbs of sand and a half foot of water and the fumes.
 
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