What causes the PH to drop?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Iffrat;3301103; said:
i have gone 2-4 weeks without a wc many times and never had an problem. to say that 10% a week is going to crash your tank is not 100% true. My 130 gal is stocked well but since the filtration is great and the feedings are not crazy the water should stay clean for a while.

dont always assume that you need to do 75% WC a week to have a clean tank


10% WC every now and then is no problem as is no WC for a few weeks.

But if no WC or 10% WC are your long term operatings basics then you will have problems in a year or so with a medium stock in a tank.

Same goes for 50% WC every week. Every now and then you have to double up in a week. To reset the nitrate.
 
All in all the best bet is to test th enitrates regularly as you do your water changes regularly...

Learn what water change schedule keeps your system in check...

Then maintain that schedule monitoring parameters as needed to be comfortable...
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.
I'm going to try slap some baking soda in tonight along with another 15% water change. that should level everything out. Tomorrow i'm going to pay my LFS a visit to try and get hold of some crushed coral.

/ OFF TOPIC /
My master plan is to build a bigger tank for my snakehead and turn his current tank into a sump. but that's going to take some time.
however, i am starting with the cabinet tomorrow :)
The new tank might have to wait until after I'm married, it took quite some convincing to get my fiance to agree to a bigger tank! ha ha.
 
P.S.
nc_nutcase;3303987; said:
when it comes to PH, big changes are not such a good idea...

I'm sure that (any) big changes are not good for the fish. My PH only went from 4.5 to 6, so that shouldn't be too hectic, right?
My goal is to get it up to 7 and keep it there.
 
PH swing from 4.5 to 6 is huge...
 
a ph swing from 4.5 to 6 is big but usually swings up are not as stressfull to fish as the ph dropping but still not great
 
The PH scale is logarithmic, meaning each whole number above (or below) 7 is 10x larger (or smaller) than the previous…

Therefore the difference between 5 & 6 is 10 times larger than the difference between 6 & 7... And the difference between 4 & 5 is 100x larger than the difference between 6 & 7...

Therefore the difference between 4.5 ~ 6 huge...

In this particular situation, what’s done is done and we can only make suggestions to help improve things from where you are at… But for anyone else following along for educational purposes, PH shifts should be made gradually by doing small water changes frequently… or adding small buffer doses gradually… or however you choose to alter the PM, gradually…
 
If you plan on keeping that Mopani wood in there, definitely go with the crushed coral, but gradually get the pH raised first. I went through a whole bottle of "pH up" before my Mopani quit sucking up KH! Once I finally got the tank where I wanted it, I added the coral & it has maintained it perfectly for a few months now. 4.5 to 6 pH swing is pretty rough...
 
I think the pH issue is really pretty simple to deal with if you think of the aquarium as a closed biological system. This means that unless you perform routine wcs, there is no way to prevent the accumulation of acids and there is no opportunity to introduce anything to buffer these accumulating acids. First, where do the acids come from?

1. The fish and aerobic bacteria expel CO2 and this combines with H2O to form carbonic acid. The carbonic acid then dissociates to relase H+ and this causes the pH to drop.

2. When the fish defecate and urinate and when the bacteria in the biofilter die, they release various organic acids. Some of these molecules dissociate to form the corresponding conjugate base and release a H+ in the process. The more H+ released, the lower the pH.

Let's say that I have an aquarium containing 100 gallons. This 100 gallons of municipal water has a certain finite amount of carbonate and bicarbonate (KH) which will buffer and counteract these accumulating acids (H+). However, because this is a closed system, eventually the KH will be exhausted and you will then see the pH drop, since the accumulating H+ is no longer being absorbed (buffered). Regardless of the remaining buffering capacity, life goes on inside that 100 gallons and H+ will continue to increase. So, what do you do to remedy this?

Really, the only practical approach is to a. remove the accumulating acids and b. reestablish the KH by adding carbonate/bicarbonate. Both of these actions are accomplished by performing regular wcs. You can further firm-up this buffering system by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to your aquarium water. Others appear to prefer adding something like coral or dolomite to their filters...both of which, theoretically, will contribute carbonate to the water.

As far as the role of nitrate in lowering the pH....I doubt it. For this to occur, the nitrobacter would have to be releasing HNO3 (nitric acid) and this does not occur.
 
brianp;3305177; said:
As far as the role of nitrate in lowering the pH....I doubt it. For this to occur, the nitrobacter would have to be releasing HNO3 (nitric acid) and this does not occur.

? Somewhere I read nitrate produces hydrogen ions ?
If that statement is true won't the hydrogen ions acidfy the aqaurium, by bonding to the buffering compounds?

on another point a PH of 5.5 or lower the bacteria needed to convert AMM to Nitites begans to die...so your AMM levels should have shown something?

the lower PH will protect the fish by keping the AMM less toxic. When your PH rises , your present AMM levels become toxic.. :nilly:

Any signs of hole in the head or lateral line erosion? stunting?
 
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