What GPH for my turbo twist UV on my 90
- Thread starter tcarswell
- Start date
tcarswell;3232052; said:There is better info here usually more first hand hobbyist experience that is why I asked.
Read the manual about an AC 110 and it'll tell you that it can filter up to a 110 gal tank... then ask hobbyists with practical experience with them to find out what the real deal is
I have no clue what the Turbo Twist manual says... nor would I give it any credit...
After 5+ years of personal experience using multiple UV lights (including Turbo Twists) I've come up with a formula of 1 W per 10 US gallons... and 10 gph per 1 W of UV strength...
In other words for a 90 gal tank a 9W @ 90 gph... using a stronger light only gives you better protection... 18 W @ 180 gph...
Runner a bigger light than necessary or running it at a slower flow rate than necessary will not do any damage to the tank, the water quality nor the equipment. As long as the unit has some flow it will not be harmed. At some point you have to admit overkill is wasting money (initial investment & electrical consumption)...
As mentioned, the good bacteria we want in our systems grows on surfaces. Provided the tank is cycled there is no risk to bacterial colonies when using a UV light I do suggest suspending their use during cycling
tcarswell;3230318; said:
well if you said that running very slowly is not going to kill your parasite and good bacteria, why the company warning you about the flow rate for bro, if so UV become useless, try the pump with 50 gph let see what will happen to your fish bro
, i used Coral life 18 watt already and had tested already, i just use 240 gph flow rate for my 150Thanks great postnc_nutcase;3232251; said:Read the manual about an AC 110 and it'll tell you that it can filter up to a 110 gal tank... then ask hobbyists with practical experience with them to find out what the real deal is
I have no clue what the Turbo Twist manual says... nor would I give it any credit...
After 5+ years of personal experience using multiple UV lights (including Turbo Twists) I've come up with a formula of 1 W per 10 US gallons... and 10 gph per 1 W of UV strength...
In other words for a 90 gal tank a 9W @ 90 gph... using a stronger light only gives you better protection... 18 W @ 180 gph...
Runner a bigger light than necessary or running it at a slower flow rate than necessary will not do any damage to the tank, the water quality nor the equipment. As long as the unit has some flow it will not be harmed. At some point you have to admit overkill is wasting money (initial investment & electrical consumption)...
As mentioned, the ‘good bacteria’ we want in our systems grows on surfaces. Provided the tank is cycled there is no risk to bacterial colonies when using a UV light… I do suggest suspending their use during cycling…
And FL2008 What the hell are you even talking about ? Theres no warning about the flow rate
And my fish are fine lol although I bumped the flow to 120 gph roughly. I wish I could piece the jibberish together better but I can't really tell what you are trying to say...yeah i couldnt understand it either FL2008...... i know it was with good intentions. just not sure what you were saying
tcarswell;3233228; said:Thanks great post
And FL2008 What the hell are you even talking about ? Theres no warning about the flow rate
about that sorry for the word "warning" but what i mean is that on the guide of the UV, if you put below 150 GPH, the UV will kill your parasites, and you said now you are using with 120 GPH roughly, it's ok for that flow rate, that will make your water too clear and clean, the fish will get used to it, but have you ever think that when your UV is off or your water condition change, your fish will easy to get sick and disease ? like people always drink good water, and if they drink dirty water, will they get sick ?
do you turn your UV on 24/7 ?
sorry if i'm so annoying
I think hes referring to the uv affecting the fishes immune system. fl2008 use the search function there are some good threads covering this.
I work in wastewater treatment and we use a high tech UV system that allows us to 'ramp up' the power of the bulbs depending on the water flow through the banks at the time.
the formula used is basically:
(power ie UV intensity)*(length of exposure to light) = dosage strength
as the GPH through the system goes up, the power goes up to compensate for the reduced contact time
so a higher wattage system can use a higher GPH rate and still get effective germ kill
a lower wattage system needs less GPH to increase contact time to make up for the lower power..
the proper germicidal dose is a combo of both factors - exposure time and UV intensity
the formula used is basically:
(power ie UV intensity)*(length of exposure to light) = dosage strength
as the GPH through the system goes up, the power goes up to compensate for the reduced contact time
so a higher wattage system can use a higher GPH rate and still get effective germ kill
a lower wattage system needs less GPH to increase contact time to make up for the lower power..
the proper germicidal dose is a combo of both factors - exposure time and UV intensity
Your not annoying in the least bit I am glad you could contribute and its a viable point. I just did not understand your post.FL2008;3234773; said:about that sorry for the word "warning" but what i mean is that on the guide of the UV, if you put below 150 GPH, the UV will kill your parasites, and you said now you are using with 120 GPH roughly, it's ok for that flow rate, that will make your water too clear and clean, the fish will get used to it, but have you ever think that when your UV is off or your water condition change, your fish will easy to get sick and disease ? like people always drink good water, and if they drink dirty water, will they get sick ?
do you turn your UV on 24/7 ?
sorry if i'm so annoying
Ill look in to that thanks. 
