What Heater To Use???

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
zennzzo;4166549; said:
Capacity is the name of the game for sure...If you are going to run a sump then put all the heaters in the same place either the tank or the sump not in each...there is a slight heat loss from sump to tank like 2-3 degrees F.
Also if you are going to run multiple heaters, I would use an external heater controller.
This way you won't have one running and one idle when you get close to the desired temp...How they work is just like the thermostat on a single heater.
There is a thermo-probe to sense the tank temp, and then based on the controller setting it will power up to 1000 watts of heaters until the desired temp is reached, then it will power off the heaters, when the temp is reached...

The Blue Line controller I have, will run up to 1000watts of heaters. You just turn the thermostat on the individual heaters all the way up and connect them to the controller.
Drop the thermo-probe in the tank and set the desired tank temp on the controller...When the tank temp drops to 1 degree below the set temp it sends power to all the heaters, when the set temp is reached, it shuts off the power to the heaters...This way they all share the load equally, and there is no problem trying to calibrate the individual thermostats to come on and shut off all at once... You'd be surprised how much less the heaters are on especially when you approach the desired set temp...About the price of a premium heater and you'll always know what the tank temp is and what the set temp is as well as the current status of the power draw.
(if it is running or not)
With a controller I was able to run my 225g acrylic at 82-86F in a room that was 68-70f with just 2 x 250 watt stealths in the bottom of my 90 gallon sump that was turning over at 2600GPH....;):D

Nice, good info. I guess I can Just use the 2 I have now on my other tanks. I guess I'm just a sucker for Hagen products and the whole Fluval line. I've had nothing but good luck and long reliable use out of all their products. The FX5, for a canister filter, is quite simply amazing. Ive got a 50% water change, mix salt, clean both the 405, and FX5 and scrub the tank and deco down to about 45min-an Hour. Pretty fast for how much crap those filters pull lol.
BTW, is Weekly 50% changes AND weekly filter cleanings a little excessive? HAHA, Gotta keep their stuff clean and my fish healthy :)
 
ExPeNsIvE AdDiCtIoN;4166665; said:
BTW, is Weekly 50% changes AND weekly filter cleanings a little excessive? HAHA, Gotta keep their stuff clean and my fish healthy :)
No IMO...
As long as you are rinsing the foam in tank water and not under the tap water that contains chlorine...
I would do more often 33% W/C's...this makes for more stable parameters...less chance of a large swing in TDS and Ph
 
I've got one 800 w titanium in my sump with controller on my 240. I can do a trickle water change off my filtered tap water with no temp loss.
 
sunvalley aquarist;4166802; said:
I've got one 800 w titanium in my sump with controller on my 240. I can do a trickle water change off my filtered tap water with no temp loss.
What is the differential between the indicated temp and the actual temp in the tank?

I used to use my 2 x 250 stealths in my 90g sump set the controller to 84 to net 82f in the tank..During 33% water changes, I dropped 3-4 degrees tops and then within an hour or two, I was back to 82 tank temp...And I fill into the tank at 1/2 open hose bib...
 
dawnmarie;4165064; said:
If you're happy with what you've got , stick with it.

$50 is a little pricey for me when you can buy an Ebo Jager 300 for $30.
You live in Modesto, isn't 1200 watts a little overkill ?
I would think 600 watts would be plenty.
I am biased in that I don't want to look at heaters in the tank regardless of brand.


+1 but I like the fact the the fluval has a heat cover.

Also the rena smart heater are impressive as well.
 
zennzzo;4166715; said:
No IMO...
As long as you are rinsing the foam in tank water and not under the tap water that contains chlorine...
I would do more often 33% W/C's...this makes for more stable parameters...less chance of a large swing in TDS and Ph

You know, I have thought of that, using filter water, but I have generally used hot tap water to break down all the yuckies! I figure the majority of the Biological filter is in the ceramic rings(2 chambers in the FX5 and 2 chambers in the 405) and also in the substrate(which is never cleaned, just moved around). I'm probably wrong in doing this, but so far it seems like it hasn't negatively affected the tank. Guess it could be even better by using tank water but don't know how I would actually utilize it to clean the pads... :confused:
 
ExPeNsIvE AdDiCtIoN;4168424; said:
You know, I have thought of that, using filter water, but I have generally used hot tap water to break down all the yuckies! I figure the majority of the Biological filter is in the ceramic rings(2 chambers in the FX5 and 2 chambers in the 405) and also in the substrate(which is never cleaned, just moved around). I'm probably wrong in doing this, but so far it seems like it hasn't negatively affected the tank. Guess it could be even better by using tank water but don't know how I would actually utilize it to clean the pads... :confused:
5 gallon bucket 1/2 full of tank water from a w/c...drop the foam in the water and squeeze it out...then tap the foam on a hard surface to dislodge the crap from the pores of the foam...rinse and repeat...they don't in my opinion have to be brand new looking to be properly cleaned...;):D:headbang2
 
zennzzo;4166735; said:
How can that be accurate? If the bio-load warrents it then 2 times a week might not be enough?



If someone has to do a complete cleanout of their filtration system on a weekly or bi weekly basis then,
1 they don't have enough filtration whether it be mechanical, biological, chemical or a combination of all three.
2 They are way way overstocked.
 
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