What is the diffence between 115v and 230v

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
nes999;4683681; said:
the 230 is already run to a different room for a tanning bed my plan was just to pull the wire to the basement and use it since we got rid of the tanning bed. since its the same i guess ill find what is cheaper to purchase 3 1800 watt heaters plus controllers or 1 of the other.

You do understand that at 110-120v a 20amp breaker is good for about 2000watts and a 15amp is about 1500watts. Three 1800 watt heaters will take three different circuits. That seems like alot of heater wattage, even for 900g.
 
the difference is that 230 is twice as much as 115
 
Bderick67;4684267; said:
You do understand that at 110-120v a 20amp breaker is good for about 2000watts and a 15amp is about 1500watts. Three 1800 watt heaters will take three different circuits. That seems like alot of heater wattage, even for 900g.


are you sure about that? ive had much more then 2,000 watts on at once on a circuit.

my basement gets freezing cold. to the point where you can see ones breath. and my 55 has 600 watts rofl. i just looked at my heater box they said 5watt pergallon. honestly.
 
nes999;4686535; said:
are you sure about that? ive had much more then 2,000 watts on at once on a circuit.

my basement gets freezing cold. to the point where you can see ones breath. and my 55 has 600 watts rofl. i just looked at my heater box they said 5watt pergallon. honestly.

By reading this post, you agree that I cannot be help liable for any decisions you make. Always consult a licensed electrician for electrical work.


amps x volts = wattage

2000 watts on a 110v circuit is 18.2 amps.... a 20 amp breaker should have a maximum load of about 15 amps.

If you take out all the little tiny variables, you won't make a 20 amp breaker (@ 120v) trip until 2400 watts... HOWEVER, I strongly advise running breakers at 75% of the max capacity OR LESS. This will help eliminate false trips from start up surge on any motor you may have going.

Most plugs are rated @ 15 amps, which means anything above 1800 watts (@ 120v) could potentially set the plug on fire.

You have to also consider wire size when determining how heavy of a load you can place on any give circuit. I use 12 gauge wire for 20 amp circuits, but that doesn't mean the electrical who wired your house did. If the wire is too small for the breaker, you have a serious fire risk.


If your house is old and has knob and tube wires, then you have a fire hazard all around you. lol
 
I have had 20 amp 230v and 110v feeds arbitrarily trip breakers after years of service due to heat stresses, the breaker gets warm after being in use for a few hours...This was in a dental office with a licensed electrician and properly wired(at the time) electric vacuum pump.

NEVER run electrical loads at (or near) max capacity!

Also, aluminum wire was used in the 70's for residential panel wiring, caused a few fires in the neighborhood I lived in when growing up. Take care running that much power on existing wiring...If in doubt at all, have an electrician run a separate feed to your tank location to provide safe power.
 
nes999;4686535; said:
are you sure about that? ive had much more then 2,000 watts on at once on a circuit.

my basement gets freezing cold. to the point where you can see ones breath. and my 55 has 600 watts rofl. i just looked at my heater box they said 5watt pergallon. honestly.

Yes I'm sure. There are many brands of out dated breakers that do not trip as designed, you need to be concerned.

On my 450 and 180 gallon tanks I don't even run heaters, though the room they are in is kept at least 75 degrees. As cold as your basement is you will need heat but I would doubt that 5000 plus watts is needed.
 
the only difference for electric bill will be with motors!!!!!!!!!!!!
A 220v motor will cost less to run than a 110 v motor(if the
size and flow rates are the same......WHY??????
The difference is the power factor....
all motors draw more power when starting up...this is for sure....
the 220v motor has a better power factor and will require less
amps to start up and runs more efficient thus reducing the draw
and less cost........
 
Do you think 4 watters per gallon would be enough? also the controllers im looking at the one that are plus or minus 5 degree are 100 the ones that are plus or minus 1.5 degree are 600$ do you think the first on would be good enough?
 
nes999;4699778; said:
Do you think 4 watters per gallon would be enough? also the controllers im looking at the one that are plus or minus 5 degree are 100 the ones that are plus or minus 1.5 degree are 600$ do you think the first on would be good enough?

Your tank is plywood correct? I think the watts needed for your tank will be somewhat determined by how well insulated it is. If it is all glass, than you are going to need more heat than if it is wood. If it is wood, can you insulate it with some styrofoam? If you can, then you will be saving your self quite a bit of money in the long run. Could make a big difference in your monthly heating cost.

Do not go with the +-5 deg controller. That would give you a 10 degree temp fluctuation on your tank. The +-1.5 deg is much better, giving you a 3 deg temp fluctuation.
 
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