Ranco controllers are an awesome product, i run one on all my tanks. as far as wiring them i buy regular extention cords for $6-10, the cords are rated up to 1650 watts.
dmopar74;2838166; said:here- http://www.rancoetc.com/ranco-etc111000000-digital-temperature-controller-p-86.html
there's also a pre-wired version there.
yesneed2ball;2838492; said:Perfect! Definately getting the wired version... Thanks!
Just to be clear... so with this wired version I just take my Stealth and plug it directly into it right?
what wattage of heater are you using? Most heaters stick on or off due to being the wrong wattage for the tank.
A 2-300 watt heater inside a heated house in a 90g tank is too much. It senses the temp drop, turns on for a minute, then off again once it gets the temp in line.
Now think about doing this 50 times a day for a few months. Thats how heaters break. It the contact points that get heated out of whack. Heating and cooling metal that many times, or more each day will be hard on it. If you were to use 100 watt heater. It takes longer to initially heat the aquarium, however it'll remain on longer, less off/on time. Thus giving you more time between breakage.
This is only for indoor heated houses. Any other setting you need roughly 4 watts per gallon if its in the garage.
If you need some proof, watch how long it takes your tank to drop in temp when the power goes out/ you unplug the heater. A large body of water actually retains heat pretty well. IF it takes 2 hours to drop 3 degrees, you don't need to be able to heat it by 3 degrees in under 5 minutes. Its all about maintaining the temperature.
Also make sure you have good water circulation. Or you'll get the space heater syndrome. A room without a fan, the space heater will turn itself off, because the air around the heater is warm. Then someone walks by/fish moves the current, bringing in cold air/water and turns the heater back on.