kurare;4541613; said:Concrete does crack... you'll have to build it like a pond/pool i would think :|
correct, its in the nature of the cement to crack. though, it can be kept into a minimum thru proper curing. besides that, there are lots of ways to counter act this problem on using concrete. for example, applying 3-4 coats of fiber glass, weather proof paint and many other sealant variations.
surfpalmsncycads;4541641; said:the shape of the tank being deeper in the middle causing waste to collect ther is actualy a good idal i personaly wouldnt use a ball valve like you intend to flash out the waste. youl have to worry about water levels and such throughout time accounting how much is evaporated and how much is flashed. if you use salt it doesnt evap so if levels are down you just add treated water if you open your valve may cause confusion of how much salt and whatnot was let out if that makes sence. id have a large powerhead in the centerpoint where waste is collected running to and above ground bio filter. very easy to build i did mine for 25 bucks pm me and ill show you how. thats what i use on my pond and its crystal clerar no wait. extrememly crystal clear! water pumps through it and pours right back into pond/tank similar to hob but terrific bio and polishing as well. no maintnance except pull top off and squirt off filter pads. bio stays put. youl also get great aeration from the spillway back into the pond/tank. concrete does crack over time. use pondoat at least its rubbery so if you get cracks theres give and take on the sealant. good luck with the project sounds fun!
im guessing your assuming that the tank will be marine, am i correct? the fact is it will be used to house a single arapaima, 10 silver dollars and an albino pleco.
you said ball valve is not good to use? considering now that your aware that is fresh water tank... do your suggestion still stand? if not, what would you recommend for me to use as a "switch" for the daily flushing out of waste? maybe something durable and easy to use.
i know that the bottom drain is traditionally the intake for the vortex then to the 3-5 step filtration then a spillway that runs thru a plant filtration then back to the pond again. though, the input pvc halfway down the tank would still undergo such water filtration
walleye1;4541676; said:I dont see why this should not work. This is no different than a pool drain, Right? Just higher slant. However, I would go with earlier post and stick a pump in the middle. This would be pain to fix if you ever have drain pipe issues like clogging.
thanks for the appreciation of the design. exactly, no different that a pool drain. as for clogging, i dont think i would have that problem because i wont be using any gravel or any subs for that matter. but just to be sure. i will be putting 2 pvc lines per inlet and outlet. i mean 2 pvc lines for the center drainage to sewage, 2 for filter inlet and 2 for the return from the filter. the spare will be sealed and will only be used in case clogging occurs. though, im positive it wont.
@all
given the dimesion i mentioned, what would be the minimum dimension of the sump for proper filtration?
any suggestions man?