Where the heck do these snails come from?

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Pyramid_Party

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Aug 6, 2008
4,916
4
68
Monterey, CA
Hi, Just a little while ago I was looking at my tank. The pleco was facing front of the tank and I was looking at him, when I noticed what appeared to be like a small brown spot/stain on the glass. Closer look and I saw it was a tiny snail. I quickly thought, where the hell did this snail come from?

Its the only one I saw and its very tiny. So I planned to take it out and it got knocked into the gravel and the gravel is brown so I cant even see it anymore. How the hell did it get there in the 1st place? I do have some live plants so maybe it hitched a ride on a plant and hatched not long ago. I just dont know, and I dont want a snail infestation either. What would you guys do or suggest? I am actually worried about snails I dont want to be overun by them and they destroy my tank. Like I said, I only noticed one, but could this one possibly start an infestation?

Ive heard stories on here where some people had snails pop out from no where and quickly over ran their tank by multiplying fast.
 
yes they multiply fasttt. and poop like crazy, especially the kind you mention.
it hitched a ride on your plants.
get Cupramine, it kills all inverts.
 
just a warning, dont use cupramine if you plan on getting snails, shrimp, or any invert in the future, i think copper remains in tanks for a long time.
 
Cupramine is a copper substitute that is supposed to be less harmful and not have the same leeching and harsh effects of 'oldschool' copper treatments..


Snails came from the live plants.. rinse them under warm water next time, or dip them in bleach. (bleach won't kill the plants, btw :D)
 
I got snails from my plants before. They did infest but not like OMG LOOK... lol but they were everywhere you looked and soon my old angelfish noticed them, then BAM only a few were there and i now do believe that they do not exist as i have not seen any in like 3 months. so i personally dont worry about it but that is also me.
 
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]from seachem.com
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"Q: How often do I need to treat with Cupramine™?
A: Unlike ionic copper or copper citrates, Cupramine™will not precipitate out. Once a level is attained it will remain there until removed by carbon, CupriSorb™, or other material. you may see a lower than expected level if you have crushed coral substrate or live rock. It is recommended that you quarantine fish in hospital tanks before entering them into your display system and when treating with any medication. As with any copper medication, it is not safe for use in a reef tank.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Q: I've been dosing with Cupramine™ and then I added Product X and everything died. What happened?
A: If Product X is a reducing agent such as ParaGuard™ (or other aldehyde based medications), or if you overdose with a dechlorinator, such as Prime™ then the Cu+2 will be reduced to Cu+. Cu+ is 10 times more toxic than Cu+2.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Q: I've just started using Cupramine™, although I had been using an ionic copper (copper sulfate) product several months ago. I find that when I dose as prescribed with the Cupramine™ I'm getting a higher level of copper than I should be. Why?
A: The ionic copper has been adsorbed onto your filter bed and is now being extracted and solubilized by the amine complex in Cupramine™. You can either adjust your Cupramine™ dose accordingly, use our CupriSorb™ to slowly extract the copper from the filter bed (although this could take weeks depending on how much copper is adsorbed), or replace the filter bed.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Q: I'm using Cupramine™ and my ammonia test kit is showing ammonia off the scale. What is going on?
A: Ammonia test kits can not distinguish ammonia from the amine based complex present in Cupramine™ and will therefore give a false high reading for ammonia while using Cupramine™. Our Ammonia Alert™ and MultiTest: Free & Total Ammonia™ test kit do not suffer from this problem as they utilize a gas exchange technology that can distinguish ammonia from amines.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Q: Is Cupramine™ safe to use with sharks and rays?
A: Yes, but use carefully-perhaps start with a 1/4 dose and increase slowly as indicated by no signs of any adverse reaction.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: Can you tell me if Cupramine™ is effective against gill fluke?[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: Yes, Cupramine™ effectively eradicates ectoparasite of both freshwater and marine fish. Please be sure to follow all directions on the product, make sure that you do not mix with any other medications and turn off your UV sterilizer. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: Will the Cupramine kill nitrifying bacteria in the filter? I used it to treat the parasite problem in a 20g quarantine tank. Three days later, I tested the ammonia level, and it was about 0.5 ppm. The copper level was about 0.25 ppm, and the nitrite level was about 0ppm.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: Cupramine may slightly retard the bacteria but overall it is safe to use and won't adversely affect the nitrifying bacteria. The reading of ammonia you're getting is most likely a false reading because Cupramine contains an organic amine which is very similar to ammonia in structure and the test kit is likely not able to distinguish between the two. You could try our MultiTest: Free and Total Ammonia test which does not have this issue and will not give a false positive... or you can use our Ammonia Alert which works on the same principal and will show only free ammonia.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: The Cupramine on line instruction says "dose of 0.5 ppm" but the bottle instrction says .5 mg/l. Is there any difference between ppm and mg/l? I could not find Sea Chem test kit so I bought Red Sea test kit which is non-chelated base and ppm units. Is it OK? [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: The use of the Red Sea kit should be fine. The recommended dose of Cupramine will get you to .5 mg/l.
The relation between ppm and mg/l is the same, they equal 1 : 1.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: Does using Cupramine in saltwater affect the results of other test kits e.g. alkalinity and pH ?[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: Cupramine will not affect the previously mentioned tests as this product is buffered and will not negatively influence pH or alkalinity.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: What's the self life of your Cupramine product?[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: Cupramine, like the rest of our line, is designed to have an indefinite shelf life (relatively speaking). The only way this product may not function properly is if something was purposely added to the bottle to contaminate the product or precipitate the ingredients out of solution.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: I am treating my 90 Gallon tank with Cupramine. I've removed the activited charcoal and carbon and I turned off the UV and the Ozonizer. Shoud I turn off my Protein Skimmer? [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: It is perfectly acceptable and recommended to leave your skimmer on during treatment.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: I have added Cupramine to my reef tank. I pulled all of my corals out and treated it once. I was told that if I added copper to my tank that I wouldn't be able to put my corals back in and that the copper would contaminate my filter bed and stick to the silicone seams. Is that correct and how should I remove the Cupramine from my tank? And should I treat it a second time?[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A: Our Cupramine is the only copper based remedy of it's kind on the market as this technology is very unique to our company. This copper based remedy is complexed to an organic (amine), hence the name Cupramine. This complex is very stable in water, meaning it is the least likely of all the copper remedies to "stick" to a gravel bed or live rock. I am not aware of any copper that sticks to silicon seals. It is also very easy to remove with carbon as this copper remedy is complexed to an organic and carbon readily removes organic material. We also manufacture Cuprisorb for copper removal. This product is very aggressive at removing copper based remedies (as well as other heavy metals). This resin will change colors as it removes copper and is regenerable. Continue to regenerate and use this product until you do not see the resin change color for a week. By then, most/all of the copper should be removed from your system. You can make sure of this by testing with our MultiTest Copper test kit.
Considering that you have already added Cupramine to your reef aquarium, I would definitely follow the instructions (2 doses 2 days apart). The instructions are based on gallons (1 ml per 10 gallons). Be sure to estimate the correct amount of gallons in your aquarium for proper dosing. If your aquarium is a typical reef with a lot of rock, you have displaced some of the gallons of your aquarium. Given that you have dosed your aquarium once with Cupramine, I would test the level of copper to figure out what level you currently have. Ex., If you have dosed 3 ml and come out with .25 ppm of copper, you know dosing another 3 ml will raise the level another .25 ppm for a total of .50 ppm, which is the recommended concentration for this product. Keep in mind that this product is still effective as low as .20 ppm and generally safe for fish up to .80 ppm, but we recommend .50 ppm as the ideal level.
You can also use GarlicGuard in the food to help enhance the immune system of the fish. If the fish have trouble eating, this product will also act as an appetite stimulant. GarlicGuard can be used in conjunction with Cupramine.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Q: Is there is any problem with using Formalin in concentration of 25mg/l with Cupramine ?[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
A; YES! Do not use Formalin with Cupramine or any other copper medication. It will reduce the Copper +2 to Copper +1 which is highly toxic at even small doses."
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chesterthehero;2088738; said:
This complex is very stable in water, meaning it is the least likely of all the copper remedies to "stick" to a gravel bed or live rock. I am not aware of any copper that sticks to silicon seals. It is also very easy to remove with carbon as this copper remedy is complexed to an organic and carbon readily removes organic material. We also manufacture Cuprisorb for copper removal.

....yeahhhhhh right. :bs:
"our fancy product won't contaminate your system! copper actually doesn't do that after all, uh, I think. but... even if it does, here's another product you can buy to fix it!"

if you value your tank, don't use ANY copper-based med. copper can also kill many types of plants, as well as inverts. so if this is a planted tank, you won't want to use anything with copper.

use bait-and-trap. put a coke bottle or plastic container in the tank with a few pieces of lettuce or cucumber inside. weight it down and leave in the tank overnight, remove, freeze, toss. the cucumber will attract any snails in the tank, and you can kill them (by freezing) before they reproduce. easy, with no side effects.

best of luck.
 
Yeah I wasnt planning on using copper, sounds too risky and knowing me I'd screw up and lose everything in that tank. Ive heard of that technique about the bottle and cucumber before. I am gonna wait it out for a little bit and see how this goes. I dont really see alot of snails. If I start to notice them and they become a problem I will do the bottle with cucumber trick.

The snails dont really bother me, in fact if they eat algae thats fine. Its just I dont wanan trust them because I know sme or most snails will eat plants and thats something I dont want to risk. But I have 1 problem, I have a pleco in the tank and you think the pleco would interfer with the trap? I know plecos like veggies too.

Oh, and about this freezing thing, why even freeze them? What if I jsut toss it in my dumpster? Is it because they can live on land and become a problem as well? Thanks for all the info so far, I appreciate it.
 
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