White Sturgeon

David1999

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jan 2, 2014
324
53
61
SoCal
Does anyone have any tips on how to take care of baby 6" white sturgeons? What do they eat? Temperature requirements? Tank size for a growout? Etc. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! :)


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Natural Born Chaos

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 26, 2012
92
2
8
Canada, Alberta
I have never kept a sturgeon of any kind, but I have always wanted one, so I have done some reading on them. But there isn't a lot of information when it comes to caring for them, there is lots for fishing them though. >.> Keep in mind, I have absolutely no experience keeping them, I'm only going off what I have read.
White sturgeons can grow up to 20 feet in length and weigh around 1,500 pounds, because of this large size the minimum requirement to house one of them is a 15,000 gallon pond. Young white sturgeons have a fairly quick growth rate of about 1" per month up until they get about 24" Because of this, it would probably be a good idea to have at least a 75 gallon aquarium until they reach a maximum of 12". Then it would be ideal to have around a 180 gallon (measurements being 72" x 24" x 25" since they need some room to turn around) up until it's about 2-2.5 years old, maybe 3 years, but like I said, it's ideal to give the fish enough room to turn around. I'm not sure if you have a large pond for it to go in, but if you did, I think once it reached 2+ feet, it would probably be okay for it to go in. Rather than a 180 gallon, you might be able to get away with keeping it in a 120 gallon wide (48" x 24" x 24") until it reaches 20" or so, but it wouldn't give much room to swim in general.

For water temperature, I'm not exactly sure as to the exact temperature they prefer to be kept at, however, I do know that they require very well oxygenated water, being so, too warm of water is not ideal. They can withstand living under ice, so I would imagine a water temperature of around 66-72F would be idea during the warmer months. As I said, they need water that is rich in oxygen, so having a few air stones in there would probably be a good idea. One of the most common reason for a sturgeon dying is usually due to low oxygenated waters, so I would definitely keep an eye on that.

White sturgeons, I believe, are a carnivorous fish, young sturgeons require a lot of protein in their diet, from what I have read, until they get about 12", it is ideal to feed them up to four times a day. When they get beyond 12", feeding twice a day is recommended. They can be fed whole, or cut up fish (depending on the size of the sturgeon, and size of the fish you're feeding to it), shrimp, prawns, mussels, earth worms and other sea foods. I would imagine that feeding bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, mosquito larvae, and silver sides would be okay as well, since they're carnivores, you could probably feed night crawlers too. In the wild they do eat eels or eel like fish, smaller fish, but more likely dead ones, you could probably try feeding some live ghost shrimp, platies or guppies, I would stay away from feeding goldfish, since they've been known to carry diseases and parasites because of the conditions they are raised/kept in, they also don't carry as much nutrition as the other things I listed, and can be a bit fatty. I would also advise quarantining them for at least two weeks, and fattening them up on some higher quality food, unless you know the place you're buying them from very well, and have had good results. There are pellets you can buy specifically for sturgeons, I'm not exactly sure where you can buy them, you could try a pond store, but your best bet would be online. For signs that you are not feeding your sturgeon the right food, or not feeding enough food, if it's in a "U" shape while laying on the bottom of the tank, or floats, you should probably look into feeding them a more nutrient rich diet, expanding the variety of food or perhaps feed it more times a day. Regarding the pellets though, I believe feeding live or frozen foods first would be a good idea, once it is feeding well, you could probably throw in some pellets with the other food, slowly adding more pellets and less frozen. If your sturgeon does stop eating, it can be difficult to get it to feed again.

As for other things to add; White sturgeons are very sensitive to medications, so it is very important to keep their aquarium clean, have good filtration, and make sure the food you're feeding them do not carry anything that can be harmful, so you won't need to treat them for anything. On the off chance that your fish does come into contact with a diseases, parasite or bacterial infection, try to look into natural, or more alternative ways to treat it, before going for harmful chemicals. I do like to add probiotics into my aquariums, since a lot of the fish can be sensitive, I have no idea if it helps, but I'd rather spend $30 every couple months than have a fish get sick or die on me.
If you plan to keep your sturgeon with other fish, keep in mind, small sturgeons are not competitive eaters, they are actually very shy, if they are kept with gluttonous fish, they will often get very little food and starve. As mentioned, young sturgeons can be very shy, so it's ideal to either give them some plants to hide in, or some type of housing.
Anther thing I'd like to add, sometimes, when the lights are off some people have said their sturgeons have gotten very rambunctious or frightened and smacked into the sides of their aquarium, leaving bruises, scratches or other damages, this can be avoided by either having some soft fake plants or live plants on both sides of the aquarium to make it less of a blow, or it can sometimes be helped by leaving on a very dim light so it's not completely dark. Adding to this, if the fish does happen to get scratched, you will want to keep an eye on the water quality until it has fully healed, since open wounds are a great way to obtain a fungus or bacterial infection, and as stated above, some of the medications used to treat these can be very harmful to the fish. To avoid getting scratched all together I would just try not to keep any decor with sharp edges in the aquarium.

If you do not have a pond for when the sturgeon gets to a large size, unless you have someone to take it later, or you plan to sell it, I would recommend looking into getting a Shovelnose Sturgeon or a Sterlet Sturgeon, I have actually been looking for either one for a while, but haven't been able to find any for sale. The Shovelnose only reaches about 24" and the Sterlet gets just under 3 feet (in the wild, most fish don't get as large in the home aquarium as they would in the wild). Both are much more tolerant of warmer waters, but it's still advised to keep the waters well oxygenated. They also are a bit more hardy and easy to care for.

I hope at least a bit of this was somewhat useful, anybody feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.
 
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David1999

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jan 2, 2014
324
53
61
SoCal
I have never kept a sturgeon of any kind, but I have always wanted one, so I have done some reading on them. But there isn't a lot of information when it comes to caring for them, there is lots for fishing them though. >.> Keep in mind, I have absolutely no experience keeping them, I'm only going off what I have read.
White sturgeons can grow up to 20 feet in length and weigh around 1,500 pounds, because of this large size the minimum requirement to house one of them is a 15,000 gallon pond. Young white sturgeons have a fairly quick growth rate of about 1" per month up until they get about 24" Because of this, it would probably be a good idea to have at least a 75 gallon aquarium until they reach a maximum of 12". Then it would be ideal to have around a 180 gallon (measurements being 72" x 24" x 25" since they need some room to turn around) up until it's about 2-2.5 years old, maybe 3 years, but like I said, it's ideal to give the fish enough room to turn around. I'm not sure if you have a large pond for it to go in, but if you did, I think once it reached 2+ feet, it would probably be okay for it to go in. Rather than a 180 gallon, you might be able to get away with keeping it in a 120 gallon wide (48" x 24" x 24") until it reaches 20" or so, but it wouldn't give much room to swim in general.

For water temperature, I'm not exactly sure as to the exact temperature they prefer to be kept at, however, I do know that they require very well oxygenated water, being so, too warm of water is not ideal. They can withstand living under ice, so I would imagine a water temperature of around 66-72F would be idea during the warmer months. As I said, they need water that is rich in oxygen, so having a few air stones in there would probably be a good idea. One of the most common reason for a sturgeon dying is usually due to low oxygenated waters, so I would definitely keep an eye on that.

White sturgeons, I believe, are a carnivorous fish, young sturgeons require a lot of protein in their diet, from what I have read, until they get about 12", it is ideal to feed them up to four times a day. When they get beyond 12", feeding twice a day is recommended. They can be fed whole, or cut up fish (depending on the size of the sturgeon, and size of the fish you're feeding to it), shrimp, prawns, mussels, earth worms and other sea foods. I would imagine that feeding bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, mosquito larvae, and silver sides would be okay as well, since they're carnivores, you could probably feed night crawlers too. In the wild they do eat eels or eel like fish, smaller fish, but more likely dead ones, you could probably try feeding some live ghost shrimp, platies or guppies, I would stay away from feeding goldfish, since they've been known to carry diseases and parasites because of the conditions they are raised/kept in, they also don't carry as much nutrition as the other things I listed, and can be a bit fatty. I would also advise quarantining them for at least two weeks, and fattening them up on some higher quality food, unless you know the place you're buying them from very well, and have had good results. There are pellets you can buy specifically for sturgeons, I'm not exactly sure where you can buy them, you could try a pond store, but your best bet would be online. For signs that you are not feeding your sturgeon the right food, or not feeding enough food, if it's in a "U" shape while laying on the bottom of the tank, or floats, you should probably look into feeding them a more nutrient rich diet, expanding the variety of food or perhaps feed it more times a day. Regarding the pellets though, I believe feeding live or frozen foods first would be a good idea, once it is feeding well, you could probably throw in some pellets with the other food, slowly adding more pellets and less frozen. If your sturgeon does stop eating, it can be difficult to get it to feed again.

As for other things to add; White sturgeons are very sensitive to medications, so it is very important to keep their aquarium clean, have good filtration, and make sure the food you're feeding them do not carry anything that can be harmful, so you won't need to treat them for anything. On the off chance that your fish does come into contact with a diseases, parasite or bacterial infection, try to look into natural, or more alternative ways to treat it, before going for harmful chemicals. I do like to add probiotics into my aquariums, since a lot of the fish can be sensitive, I have no idea if it helps, but I'd rather spend $30 every couple months than have a fish get sick or die on me.
If you plan to keep your sturgeon with other fish, keep in mind, small sturgeons are not competitive eaters, they are actually very shy, if they are kept with gluttonous fish, they will often get very little food and starve. As mentioned, young sturgeons can be very shy, so it's ideal to either give them some plants to hide in, or some type of housing.
Anther thing I'd like to add, sometimes, when the lights are off some people have said their sturgeons have gotten very rambunctious or frightened and smacked into the sides of their aquarium, leaving bruises, scratches or other damages, this can be avoided by either having some soft fake plants or live plants on both sides of the aquarium to make it less of a blow, or it can sometimes be helped by leaving on a very dim light so it's not completely dark. Adding to this, if the fish does happen to get scratched, you will want to keep an eye on the water quality until it has fully healed, since open wounds are a great way to obtain a fungus or bacterial infection, and as stated above, some of the medications used to treat these can be very harmful to the fish. To avoid getting scratched all together I would just try not to keep any decor with sharp edges in the aquarium.

If you do not have a pond for when the sturgeon gets to a large size, unless you have someone to take it later, or you plan to sell it, I would recommend looking into getting a Shovelnose Sturgeon or a Sterlet Sturgeon, I have actually been looking for either one for a while, but haven't been able to find any for sale. The Shovelnose only reaches about 24" and the Sterlet gets just under 3 feet (in the wild, most fish don't get as large in the home aquarium as they would in the wild). Both are much more tolerant of warmer waters, but it's still advised to keep the waters well oxygenated. They also are a bit more hardy and easy to care for.

I hope at least a bit of this was somewhat useful, anybody feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.
Wow, thanks man! This really helped me a lot :) do u have any idea on what's the best thing to feed a baby 6" sturgeon to make it grow very fast. Thanks! :D


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Natural Born Chaos

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 26, 2012
92
2
8
Canada, Alberta
I'm glad the information was useful for you, regarding your question, 1" per month is already fairly fast, but if you want to try to exceed that I would recommend using either bloodworms or earthworms as a staple/base food. Because your sturgeon is 6", earthworms would probably would best, however, I'm not sure if you can get them easily, for where I am, they're very difficult to find, the place I do get them they cost $5 for 12, and seeing as how my fish can eat several of them a day, it can get quite expensive. Going outside and digging would be the alternative, but not if the ground is frozen 70% of the year, and an extra special bug phobia adds to the fun. If you cannot easily get earthworms, then live or frozen bloodworms would be the alternative, live is almost always better, and I would strongly recommend staying away from freeze dried foods, it won't hurt the fish, but freeze dried foods often carry very little nutrients, with frozen you lose a bit of the health benefits, but you also are playing it safe, since not all live foods are bred/raised in the most sanitary conditions, which could transfer harmful diseases and parasites to your fish, freezing them would normally kill anything that could harm your fish. Adding to this, when I'm talking about using frozen, I'm not referring to earthworms, live earthworms are best to use, if you're not exactly sure where they're coming from or how they're raised, it would be a good idea to keep them in oatmeal for 12-24 hours which will clean out their systems and get rid of the dirt they've been consuming in the event there could be any foreign things you don't want transferred to your fish.

As well as your base diet of earthworms it's good to have a variety, switching what you're feeding every day, week, fortnight or month, with earthworms being your base, you would never change that, since they tend to be very nutritious and can help speed up the growth rate, but as said earlier, make sure you know where they're coming from, if you don't, then definitely use the oatmeal method. I would say have at least two other foods that you're feeding your sturgeon, not including your staple. The best things to use IMO, chopped tilapia (this one is a hit or miss, some fish love it, some have no interest), chopped prawns, chopped shrimp, large mysis shrimp, mussels (my big guys love this, especially my eels and catfish), oysters (again, it's a hit or miss), silver sides (might want to water this one, many stores sell smelt in place of silver sides, just make sure you know what you're feeding, all my fish eat them, the gars seem to favor them the most), salmon roe is a great choice as well, it can sometimes be a bit expensive, but it's very nutritious, and would aid in helping the growth. Another good food would be clams, I would actually recommend going to an Asian market, they normally have a large variety of sea foods, and a lot of the frozen foods aquarium stores have, Asian markets will have them too, often a larger amount for much less than what you'd pay at an aquarium store. I used to spend up to $200 on fish food, but now, getting 80% of their food from there I'm now paying a fraction of that. It's very important to check the ingredients and look at the packaging, there have been a few times I've bought seasoned food, or cooked and only noticed when I'm preparing everything for the month. Sometimes it can be difficult to find foods that aren't seasoned with salt, so it's good to just rinse it with cool water for at least 30 seconds.

Personally, I'm a bit (a lot) of a control freak, so I like to have lists and schedules for just about everything, I've found using them for my fish keeping is quite helpful. I normally go out, buy a bunch of food, some fresh, some frozen, get out some freezer bags, and label them for each tank, "Monsters" "Cichlids" "Axolotls" (next month I'll be doing one for my grow outs, I used to have a couple, but shut a bunch of my tanks done, just last week started a couple up again :D), cut everything up, putting the staple/base food in every bag, then having a randomized order for the rest of the foods, then once I'm done, close all the bags, and put them in the freezer. Having them prepared for the month makes things a lot easier, it normally takes four hours to get everything ready, but then for the next little while all I need to do is take a bag out for each tank, put it in water, rinse it and feed. Rather than the alternative of getting out 15 different things every morning, sorting through it, cutting it up, ect. It can get to be a bit of a hassle. So, if you were to do a similar thing; because earthworms are your staple, you wouldn't freeze or cut them up until you're ready to feed them to your fish, so you'd leave those out, what you could do is have 30 bags, each with enough food for 3 or 4 feedings-have salmon roe, silversides and mussels in 7 of the bags, tilapia, clams and prawns in another 7, and so on. And with each feeding you'd give maybe half or a whole earthworm, it would also be great if you could find a good pellet food that your sturgeon will eat as well, and you could feed that daily. If you're feeding four times a day, then spread it out to every 6 hours or so. You could make pellets the first food you feed in the mornings, that way it's not a huge rush to wake up and thaw the food right away, just drop some pellets in, and you're done.

And, as with any grow out tank, it's important to keep up on water changes, if you don't ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will build up and possibly stunt, or slow down the growth quite a bit. I would recommend keeping it in a bare bottom tank so waste is easier to siphon out. It's also important to not let food sit in the aquarium for more than an hour, after that you'll want to net it out. I would recommend doing a water change at least twice a week, and having good filtration will help a lot with keeping the aquarium clean. Just remember, the more you feed, and the better the water quality, the faster your little guy will grow.

As a side note; Live black worms can be an alternative to feeding earthworms, however, personally, I won't feed them to my fish more often than once a month because of how they are bred. There was a time I did have a black worm culture, and when I bred them myself I wasn't worried about foreign bacteria, however, when buying them from stores it can be a bit of a gamble, I would say unless you're breeding them yourself, I wouldn't feed them regularly. There is a lot of debate around feeding live black worms, but my opinion on it, unless you're buying them straight from the source, you know that they're being kept in absolutely excellent conditions, or you're breeding them your self, I wouldn't even bother with feeding them.
 

David1999

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jan 2, 2014
324
53
61
SoCal
I'm glad the information was useful for you, regarding your question, 1" per month is already fairly fast, but if you want to try to exceed that I would recommend using either bloodworms or earthworms as a staple/base food. Because your sturgeon is 6", earthworms would probably would best, however, I'm not sure if you can get them easily, for where I am, they're very difficult to find, the place I do get them they cost $5 for 12, and seeing as how my fish can eat several of them a day, it can get quite expensive. Going outside and digging would be the alternative, but not if the ground is frozen 70% of the year, and an extra special bug phobia adds to the fun. If you cannot easily get earthworms, then live or frozen bloodworms would be the alternative, live is almost always better, and I would strongly recommend staying away from freeze dried foods, it won't hurt the fish, but freeze dried foods often carry very little nutrients, with frozen you lose a bit of the health benefits, but you also are playing it safe, since not all live foods are bred/raised in the most sanitary conditions, which could transfer harmful diseases and parasites to your fish, freezing them would normally kill anything that could harm your fish. Adding to this, when I'm talking about using frozen, I'm not referring to earthworms, live earthworms are best to use, if you're not exactly sure where they're coming from or how they're raised, it would be a good idea to keep them in oatmeal for 12-24 hours which will clean out their systems and get rid of the dirt they've been consuming in the event there could be any foreign things you don't want transferred to your fish.

As well as your base diet of earthworms it's good to have a variety, switching what you're feeding every day, week, fortnight or month, with earthworms being your base, you would never change that, since they tend to be very nutritious and can help speed up the growth rate, but as said earlier, make sure you know where they're coming from, if you don't, then definitely use the oatmeal method. I would say have at least two other foods that you're feeding your sturgeon, not including your staple. The best things to use IMO, chopped tilapia (this one is a hit or miss, some fish love it, some have no interest), chopped prawns, chopped shrimp, large mysis shrimp, mussels (my big guys love this, especially my eels and catfish), oysters (again, it's a hit or miss), silver sides (might want to water this one, many stores sell smelt in place of silver sides, just make sure you know what you're feeding, all my fish eat them, the gars seem to favor them the most), salmon roe is a great choice as well, it can sometimes be a bit expensive, but it's very nutritious, and would aid in helping the growth. Another good food would be clams, I would actually recommend going to an Asian market, they normally have a large variety of sea foods, and a lot of the frozen foods aquarium stores have, Asian markets will have them too, often a larger amount for much less than what you'd pay at an aquarium store. I used to spend up to $200 on fish food, but now, getting 80% of their food from there I'm now paying a fraction of that. It's very important to check the ingredients and look at the packaging, there have been a few times I've bought seasoned food, or cooked and only noticed when I'm preparing everything for the month. Sometimes it can be difficult to find foods that aren't seasoned with salt, so it's good to just rinse it with cool water for at least 30 seconds.

Personally, I'm a bit (a lot) of a control freak, so I like to have lists and schedules for just about everything, I've found using them for my fish keeping is quite helpful. I normally go out, buy a bunch of food, some fresh, some frozen, get out some freezer bags, and label them for each tank, "Monsters" "Cichlids" "Axolotls" (next month I'll be doing one for my grow outs, I used to have a couple, but shut a bunch of my tanks done, just last week started a couple up again :D), cut everything up, putting the staple/base food in every bag, then having a randomized order for the rest of the foods, then once I'm done, close all the bags, and put them in the freezer. Having them prepared for the month makes things a lot easier, it normally takes four hours to get everything ready, but then for the next little while all I need to do is take a bag out for each tank, put it in water, rinse it and feed. Rather than the alternative of getting out 15 different things every morning, sorting through it, cutting it up, ect. It can get to be a bit of a hassle. So, if you were to do a similar thing; because earthworms are your staple, you wouldn't freeze or cut them up until you're ready to feed them to your fish, so you'd leave those out, what you could do is have 30 bags, each with enough food for 3 or 4 feedings-have salmon roe, silversides and mussels in 7 of the bags, tilapia, clams and prawns in another 7, and so on. And with each feeding you'd give maybe half or a whole earthworm, it would also be great if you could find a good pellet food that your sturgeon will eat as well, and you could feed that daily. If you're feeding four times a day, then spread it out to every 6 hours or so. You could make pellets the first food you feed in the mornings, that way it's not a huge rush to wake up and thaw the food right away, just drop some pellets in, and you're done.

And, as with any grow out tank, it's important to keep up on water changes, if you don't ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will build up and possibly stunt, or slow down the growth quite a bit. I would recommend keeping it in a bare bottom tank so waste is easier to siphon out. It's also important to not let food sit in the aquarium for more than an hour, after that you'll want to net it out. I would recommend doing a water change at least twice a week, and having good filtration will help a lot with keeping the aquarium clean. Just remember, the more you feed, and the better the water quality, the faster your little guy will grow.

As a side note; Live black worms can be an alternative to feeding earthworms, however, personally, I won't feed them to my fish more often than once a month because of how they are bred. There was a time I did have a black worm culture, and when I bred them myself I wasn't worried about foreign bacteria, however, when buying them from stores it can be a bit of a gamble, I would say unless you're breeding them yourself, I wouldn't feed them regularly. There is a lot of debate around feeding live black worms, but my opinion on it, unless you're buying them straight from the source, you know that they're being kept in absolutely excellent conditions, or you're breeding them your self, I wouldn't even bother with feeding them.
Wow.... Thanks so much for all the help man! How much do u think I should be feeding him each day at 6"? So far I've been feeding him twice a day on bloodworms only. Thanks! :)


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Aw3s0m3

Piranha
MFK Member
May 6, 2012
3,188
82
81
Over there
Sup David. You get your sturgeon from Brian? If you did, he breeds them and has a bunch around 16'. He told me when I picked mine up from him that my 6" will be close to 2-1/2' to 3' long in 8 months. I've been feeding mine these specially made pellets that he feeds all his which is especially high in protein, around 60%. They do require cooler water that's high in o2 and you do have to feed them a lot so chaos is correct. Everything he said is pretty much spot on with what Brian told me. I hope you're not keeping yours with your bichirs though. That water is waaay too warm for these guys.


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David1999

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jan 2, 2014
324
53
61
SoCal
Sup David. You get your sturgeon from Brian? If you did, he breeds them and has a bunch around 16'. He told me when I picked mine up from him that my 6" will be close to 2-1/2' to 3' long in 8 months. I've been feeding mine these specially made pellets that he feeds all his which is especially high in protein, around 60%. They do require cooler water that's high in o2 and you do have to feed them a lot so chaos is correct. Everything he said is pretty much spot on with what Brian told me. I hope you're not keeping yours with your bichirs though. That water is waaay too warm for these guys.


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Nope, I got mine from a fish store in OC :D so far I've been giving mine frozen bloodworms twice a day and he's been eating very well :) I keep him in an outdoor pond (800g) with a bunch of koi. Are pellets a better source of food than bloodworms? Or should I just stick with bloodworms? Thanks Ivan! :)


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Aw3s0m3

Piranha
MFK Member
May 6, 2012
3,188
82
81
Over there
Pellets are better cuz they're more nutritionally complete. Bloodworms really don't have much nutritional value unless you're feeding actual bloodworms. Not the frozen ones you get from the shop


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David1999

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jan 2, 2014
324
53
61
SoCal
Pellets are better cuz they're more nutritionally complete. Bloodworms really don't have much nutritional value unless you're feeding actual bloodworms. Not the frozen ones you get from the shop


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Alright I'll get some pellets this weekend :) what kind would be best to feed it? Thanks man! :D


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