I variated from the design I found here because I didn't buy the right fittings. But I think this will work once I suck the air out of the hump. Would like to use 1 inch all over though so if it won't..no biggy. Not glued yet anyways.
will this work?
- Thread starter JC_Biggs
- Start date
I see it's put together but not glued.... The T setting your water heidth is very high maybe because it's not glued and pressed together.....I added a pic to show you about were you want it.... The water level will be almost at the top of your wood trim from the pic for possible overflowing the tank......This is just my opinion but go get the right size T for 1 inch pvc to run all the way before glueing.... I use 3/4 pvc for my overflow and I am going to make another one 1 inch all the way to my sump......Other than the 3/4 from the T and the heidth of the T looks good........Add another small piece for the vent to make it higher so no chance of water will come out.......I think thats it...maybe someone else will have some ideas.... 
The deep water DIY overflow are prety neat.. But the T is important for your water heidth...Don't forget the one way valve for starting your syphon.....Once the water level gets below the T when electricity shuts off it should stop and restart when electric comes on...
The deep water DIY overflow are prety neat.. But the T is important for your water heidth...Don't forget the one way valve for starting your syphon.....Once the water level gets below the T when electricity shuts off it should stop and restart when electric comes on...ok cool thanks i was looking at the other design on this site, and i thought that it look like both would accomplish the same thing. ill go get the 1in stuff today.
however i was under the impression the water only came up to the bottom of the t. i see in the picture you did you lowered it quite a bit. is this something im gonna have to play with to get right?
however i was under the impression the water only came up to the bottom of the t. i see in the picture you did you lowered it quite a bit. is this something im gonna have to play with to get right?
The water has to rise higher than the bottom of the T to flow through it...... Depending on your pump flow rate... If you have a small volume pump then the water will just flow on the bottom of the T, but if you have a larger pump it will rise filling a lot of the T. The correct GPH pump will have the T filled with water.... One thing I forgot to mention was to get a (Ball Valve) for the output of the pump and the output on the overflow for fine tuning. closing the valve on the output/overflow will make the water rise with a weak pump. (depending on your pump). This style overflow with 1 inch pvc flows about 375 GPH. Pumps loose pressure the higher they have to push up/Head heidth from the sump under the main tank.. A pump may be rated 800GPH but with a Head Heidth of 4 feet pushing up to the tank it might push only 650GPH. Get a pump thats rated slightly higher than 375GPH at the correct Head/Heidth. Most pumps have a chart on the back of the box for Head Heidth flow. If the pump pushes the water to fast making the water level to high you can adjust this with the ball valve by closing it slightly to lower the flow. You will have to experiment to get the water to your satisfied level...
I found this on another website...... Using the vent he makes another hook so it hangs on the tank nice and level... http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-overflow/120.asp
A couple more suggestions that I was thinking. Your output has a long horizontal run. Maybe a 45 degree or strait down would be better flow. depending on where you are running your sump..
the horizontal part is just like that to hide the pipe. it works farely well, just enough downward slope to keep the water moving.
There are a lot of background options to chose from to hide the pipe, but if you are happy with the flow and how you hide the pipe so am I....