Use a small tankless water heater ( natural gas), with a small pump you can circulate hot water to stainless steel coil ( heat exchanger) in sump or tank, use a thermostat to control.
Would work good in a sump but may get clogged if the water is drawn from the tank.Boydo;3384361; said:Use a small tankless water heater ( natural gas), with a small pump you can circulate hot water to stainless steel coil ( heat exchanger) in sump or tank, use a thermostat to control.
I am located approximately 50 KM ... not ideal, but I will break even on the project within a couple years at most - thus the ROI makes sense.cvermeulen;3382103; said:I did some investigation into solar thermal. I don't know where in Canada you are, but depending how much sunlight you get, it is quite possible to run a glycol to water solar thermal system that has a net benefit, even in winter. The trick is insulating your exchanger effectively against the cold air temperature while still allowing it to capture sunlight. Of course, snow buildup on your collector causes problems too, preventing sunlight from getting to the glycol... but again it depends where in Canada you are - If you're north of the 55th like I am, it's less than practical.
vladfloroff;3382123; said:If you hook a thermostat to a pump rated for warmer water you solve your heating problem. Could you post some pic there might be other thermal bleeds you could fix.
wow_it_esploded;3382124; said:You fail to see the main issue here. Then the tree, which has been growing for 20 years, can no longer filter the air.
Natural gas might be cheaper than electricity, and it is one of the cleanest burning gases widely available.
skynoch;3382319; said:I've worked on the woodburning boilers and live in canada and we have no problem with them around here. You need to run glycol/water mixture in your line and then to a heat exchanger which is best located in a hot water tank or wherever you want to put it. To protect against freezing when not running either bury the line below the frost level or use a self limitting heat trace on the line and insulate it. They also make models where there is a natural gas backup for when you don't feed the fire.
There are also models of wood furnaces with natural gas backup that also cointain a single pass heat exchanger in them which would do the job.
apisto;3382692; said:why don't you just heat your tanks through your central heating? The plastic pipes for underfloor heating are ideal. All you need is a thermostat and solenoid valve
brianp;3385131; said:The laws of thermodynamics are not easily circumvented. No matter how you slice it, you've got to get energy from somewhere. This energy source will have to be the cheapest you can find, deliverable and then efficiently applied and contained. I am not sure where your tank is located, but obviously you want the enclosure to be well insulated. If I was doing this, I would look into propane. How you then apply the energy from propane will depend upon where the tank is located. But, you may want to look into a swimming pool heater. I think large, outdoor propane tanks, filled each Fall are fairly affordable.
swede;3388388; said:do you live anywhere near moving water? you could build a dam and actually generate enough power for your home if you do