Hello. I bought a dragon goby approx. two months ago. I have researched them a lot. I have learned that they live better in brackish water or water such as the gulf coast and atlantic coast (ie everglade water). I am trying to learn how to breed them so I can keep a dragon tank. It is about a 200 gal tank. Everything I have found said they don't breed in captivity but I know this can be done with proper sexing, salinity, and temp. But these things I cant seem to find if I could get a little help I will post pics as I complete changes as for the dragon goby aka dragon fish. I think they are a beautiful fish with bright hues of gold and violet. Also just a curious question; how old is this species of fish the VIOLET DRAGON GOBY?
would like to breed my dragons
- Thread starter EzEAZ
- Start date
I love the dragon gobies! Outside of your question, first a bit of advice….keep a tight fitting lid on your tank. They have been known to jump (as I have lost mine such manner). On to your question now – the information that I am providing is gathered from personal experience, reference literature (i.e., Aqualog Special 12 [Frank Schafer], Brackish-Water Fishes [Neale Monks], & various websites (i.e., wetwebmedia.com, fishbase.org, badmanstropical.com, and various forums and caresheets). First and foremost, you will need to identify your dragon gobies. Every “eel-like” goby that I have seen either wasn’t labeled with a scientific name or, if it did have a scientific name, was labeled as Gobioides broussoneti. G. broussoneti is found on the Atlantic side of the Americas, ranging from Georgia, USA to Brazil. It can reach lengths around 20”. It is noted that this species is characterized by it’s “zebra-like” stripes. G. peruanus is from the Pacific side of the Americas, ranging from Mexico to Peru. It can reach lengths around 10”. G. grahamae is found on the Atlantic side of the Americas, hailing from Brazil and the Guianas. It can reach lengths around 8”. Both species, G. peruanus & G. grahamae, are characterized by a violet/blue sheen across the body. Odontamblyopus rubicundus is found in the western Pacific ranging from India to Japan. This species, likewise, has the violet/blue sheen, but also has “hair-like” extensions on each ray of the pectoral fin. Lastly, Taenioides cirrhatus is widely distributed across the western Pacific. It can reach lengths around 12”. This species tends to have more yellow along with the violet sheen in the body color; though, the real detail that sets this dragon goby apart is the “beard” on it chin and the ridges across it’s face. In my opinion, it reminds very much of the face of the dragon used in many oriental ceremonies and celebrations. All, that said, make sure you have the same species. I have not breed them myself but it is on my “To-do” list. From reports, these have been bred in the aquarium from time to time. From reports directly for this species, though the ones that I found were somewhat vague in the specifics. The idea was to lower the salinity to near freshwater, and then raise the salinity to near marine conditions to trigger spawning. Unfortunately, this gave no indication of time frame of salinity shifts nor temperatures. If your endeavors with this base idea do not work, I would try a different approach that has worked for Monodactylus Sebae. That is raising the salinity to marine conditions over time, then daily remove water to roughly a four to five drop in depth, replacing it with freshwater, until they spawn or you reach the lower threshold of salinity. Many fish in brackish habitats are euryhaline, meaning they can tolerate a range of salinities. These fish may travel through different salinities for spawning or out of anatomical maturities (catadromous or anadromous). Some are just looking for their next meal. Most brackish habitats fluctuate in temperature, pH, salinity, and nitrate levels. Some stay relatively stabile. As aquarists, we try to imitate these conditions. So, with the above mentioned methods to induce spawning, we imitating some possible scenarios, such as 1) high tide/low tide, 2) drought season to rainy season, 3) rainy season to drought season, 4) anadromous migration, or 5) catadromous migration. For the temperature, I would hold 80 degress Fahrenheit, at least until I exhausted the salinity swing options. You could attempt a cooler water feed as salinity drops, simulating a influx of cool river water, but I would wait on that. Let us know which works for you. Next in the order of setup is number of species. The reports say to take one male and many females and let them pair up (harem grouping). But I understand this to be difficult as I personally know no external way to sex these and the males tend to quarrel over territories (in open water they tend to be calmed, but approaching one’s cave tends to create animosity). I would lean toward buying a group and hoping for the best or really study the genital papillae. Next is food. We all know that feeding our fish in the correct portions, varieties, and quality make a big difference in not just reproductive health, but also overall health. Explore brine shrimp, blackworms, chopped earthworms, algae wafers, and Cyclops. These fish scrape algae with their teethe and sift the sand for detritus and small organisms. I have not seen these guys eat a single baby guppy of mine and understand that overall, they do not eat other fish. Though I have heard of someone dropping a guppy in and it “disappeared”. Frank Schafer notes under Taenioides cirrhatus that they eat small eel gobies. Just keep an eye on them. I hope this helps some! Keep us updated; so many people don’t!
Thank you I appreciate the help I to day found out what you ment by jumping luckily I cought him befor he hit the ground and had him back in the water unfortenatly I had to remove one from its home tank and place it in one that has a couple of other mates of other breeds ie specis tinfoil barbs and neon tetras ie whit skirts it whent crazy like and riged on servis opon placing in other tank seemed to relax a bit but still not quit right ?
What size is your brackish tank? What's your pH, SG & temp of your brackish tank? What other fish are in your brackish tank? The dragon will not live long in the soft, acidic water with your tetra types. Also watch for nipping of your dragon's fins; they won't heal well in low salinity.
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now I feel a bit bad idk ph sg or how to check I also had t o drop to a smaller tank my larger one got busted right now I have a 10gal one aorox 5-6" long and two neon tetras as for salt in tank I followed instructions on aqueriam salt pack it said one tablespoon per 10gal that's bout all I know for certen I have had them for about 5 mun thay are awsom and doing good had it not been for other tank busting all would be doing good
You will need marine salt. Your lfs can get you a hydrometer and pH kit. Also, as you know, you will need to get a larger task for the gobies. The tetras will not fair long in the salt mix.
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