would this work?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Often people confuse bubbles from air stones with oxygenation of the water. Granted a small fraction of the O2 does dissolve into the water from the bubbles. But the primary benefit of air stones is water movement and agitation breaking surface tension, allowing better gas exchange.

From the description you gave it sounds like you will already have plenty of water flow and surface agitation. On a side note I run a large bio canister on one of may tanks, the media is always submerged and it dose an excellent job of biological filtration.
 
brich999;4848173; said:
i just thought with bioballs, they would be in constant rolling motion and it would maybe work like a boiling soup of bioballs. lol ill have to do conventional wetr dry


I had an issue with this in a ocean clear canister i have. When i got it, they one canister had a cartridge, and the second one had ceramic and a bunch of loose bioballs. I set it up as it was, and in a few weeks every day i was cleaning broken pieces of bio balls up all over my tank. A mag18 was the pump, and being in a sump you will have less severe current, but constantly having blue pieces of plastic in your tank and replacing them very often will get old very fast if you run into this.

And i never said efficient and sufficient were the same thing.:) But I would rather have the extra area for bacteria to go than not, which is probably why the bio on my 300 is enough for like 10 tanks. It's just something to think about, but I've never believed in using bioballs underwater. All i know is seachem claims that 1 liter of matrix has an equivalent surface area to 170 liters of plastic bioballs. Thats easy enough math for me to use bioballs in my W/D portion, and submerge a high surface area media under water, where it is meant to be used.

Again, this is just what i do, and if you do find success with your design, it would definitely be considered for one of my future sumps. I looks a bit easier than constructing a traditional W/D with a drip plate and several baffles.
 
And i never said efficient and sufficient were the same thing

Didn`t mean for that to be directed at anyone in particular.
Just an overall observation.
Plastic does get brittle with age, but had never thought of bio balls breaking up.
Can certainly imagine what a mess that could turn into.
The point I was trying to make was there is a “tipping” point where media becomes ineffectual. Depending on the tank, bio specific media is not needed at all.
On my tank, I have no, none, zero, zip bio media.
It hasn`t had any for quite some time.
Granted, there will always be some bacterial activity wherever food and oxygen are available.
Filters being prime breeding grounds, but my filters get cleaned/media replaced on a schedule and process that would kill off all bacterial life.
I`ve had no ill effects using just the tanks inner surfaces as my “Bio Filter”.
Not recommending my tanks system for anyone else, just pointing out we often make too big a deal out of amounts/types of bio media.
 
ok i think im going with wet dry with like 40g of bioballs (cheap on ebay) and maybe some pond matrix in bags on the bottom underwater. i always overthing and go way over the top on dumb things... speaking of overkill, any chance i could get a reeflo hammerhead to work on this or would i need to valve it back to the point where it would be a waste?
 
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