Xback Arowana having blue colour

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I just bought a juvenile 24K Goldenhead it was very pale in color but when I put it in my tank which has black gravel & a black ground it went much darker straight away, it's gold head went duller & it started getting blue & purple shine.
I am now going to brighten my tank up with a light blue background & white sand.

I think with Gold xbacks they keep them in light tanks with bright lights & then put them in darker tanks when they are older
 
I just bought a juvenile 24K Goldenhead it was very pale in color but when I put it in my tank which has black gravel & a black ground it went much darker straight away, it's gold head went duller & it started getting blue & purple shine.
I am now going to brighten my tank up with a light blue background & white sand.

I think with Gold xbacks they keep them in light tanks with bright lights & then put them in darker tanks when they are older

It true, ideally if u wanted a gold bar. They should be kept in a full white tank for life. The moment you put them in a black tank, a blue/purple base comes out. But up to 15" a white FGT should be used instead of a white tank.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
the white tank is a scam the farms use to make gold aros look better and to get a higher price

with white tank treatment the fish looks washed out and looks more white than gold

look for pearlies this is something that a good xback should have if they do have full pearlies you stand a better chance that the scales will cross over the back

after a gold has been treated with WTT and it is then place in normal tank conditions with normal lights chances are the back will start to turn dark and the shine level will drop

a very high % ofr xbacks never cross
if you buy a cheap xback you will get a cheap xback as its cheap for a reason but it may have been made to look good with WTT
 
the white tank is a scam the farms use to make gold aros look better and to get a higher price

with white tank treatment the fish looks washed out and looks more white than gold

look for pearlies this is something that a good xback should have if they do have full pearlies you stand a better chance that the scales will cross over the back

after a gold has been treated with WTT and it is then place in normal tank conditions with normal lights chances are the back will start to turn dark and the shine level will drop

a very high % ofr xbacks never cross
if you buy a cheap xback you will get a cheap xback as its cheap for a reason but it may have been made to look good with WTT

It's not really a scam when everyone knows about it. A xback with correct genes will turn gold as it gets older even in WTT, in fact it gets the gold bar gold that many desires. Even for blue base xbacks, the blue will appear even in WTT. The shine normally only drops when it hasn't been in WTT long enough, turning dark is just a natural change to suit the enviroment. The suggested size before taking out of WTT is 15", roughly a year old.

WTT has been proven to speed up the crossing when done correctly, but good genes is still the biggest factor as in time, even without WTT, an xback with gd genes will cross. WTT is just another way to create an environment to bring out the best in our fish. Just like white base for Black rays to get whiter spots or turning on the lights 24/7 to get donuts or reddish base for bichirs to bring out contrast.

Black tank and tanning for red aros is a must, WTT for gold xback will bring out the best in our aros in the shortest time possible. Its not really a negative thing imo. If the owner continues with the treatment, your xback should reach close to its full potential faster then normal. It's just a way to raise our aros.
 
It's not really a scam when everyone knows about it. A xback with correct genes will turn gold as it gets older even in WTT, in fact it gets the gold bar gold that many desires. Even for blue base xbacks, the blue will appear even in WTT. The shine normally only drops when it hasn't been in WTT long enough, turning dark is just a natural change to suit the enviroment. The suggested size before taking out of WTT is 15", roughly a year old.

WTT has been proven to speed up the crossing when done correctly, but good genes is still the biggest factor as in time, even without WTT, an xback with gd genes will cross. WTT is just another way to create an environment to bring out the best in our fish. Just like white base for Black rays to get whiter spots or turning on the lights 24/7 to get donuts or reddish base for bichirs to bring out contrast.

Black tank and tanning for red aros is a must, WTT for gold xback will bring out the best in our aros in the shortest time possible. Its not really a negative thing imo. If the owner continues with the treatment, your xback should reach close to its full potential faster then normal. It's just a way to raise our aros.

As you may jave seen my other 24 carat gold aro thread....since the size is 10" i will put it in a white environment(white background or blue background??)...But after 15" putting a black background will change its colour??

Sent from my GT-S5360 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
As you may jave seen my other 24 carat gold aro thread....since the size is 10" i will put it in a white environment(white background or blue background??)...But after 15" putting a black background will change its colour??

Sent from my GT-S5360 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

Ok, i will try to share what i was taught. How much is correct even i dunno. The real way to WTT a gold aro is to put it in a white fgt with low water lvl. White lights are used to make the fgt whiter. This is the key part to WTT. Some say 24/7 lights on. But some also say that is a cause of drop eye. I would go with 12hr minimium. Keep this up for 8mths to a yr. The shine has been proven not to drop.

Glass tank WTT normally doesn't really work. No matter how long the shine still drops after changing to a darker environment. The way some do it is transfer a WTT aro to a white tank once 15". The aro will then keep the gold bar look and it will intensify as it gets older. This part is for life

Lastly, from what i heard. All aros in a darker environment will turn blue/purple base. But under lights it will still look gold.

All this is just what have been shared with me over the yrs. If you just wanna enjoy ur aro and not bother with the development. Might as well keep it in a black tank from the start like me. Haha. I saw u wanted a gold head xback. Do not put it in a black tank before it hits 16" or the gold head shine will drop.


Sent from my GT-I9100 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGeKc5FhhcQ&feature=youtu.be

This is what can be achieve with good genes and WTT. Its a fish from a Singapore farm in Japan. I dun own this fish but if i had the time and space i will do the above to aim for this. Its the dream.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com