YIKES!!!! NEED HELP QUICK!!!!! New 300!!!
- Thread starter peterp63
- Start date
I really didn't want to drill my new PC 300, but if it's the best way then I'll do it!
When I say adjustable, I meant the Durso height level can be adjusted. They are made by Oceanic or All-Glass (I can't remember) and they are built for varying height tanks.
When I say adjustable, I meant the Durso height level can be adjusted. They are made by Oceanic or All-Glass (I can't remember) and they are built for varying height tanks.
How much carbon do you have in the 2260? That is a large filter & it seems such a waste to not use it for at least some mechanical/biological.
Also is there any way you can tweak the hoses so the runs are shorter? You will get a considerable improvement in output by doing that.
Also is there any way you can tweak the hoses so the runs are shorter? You will get a considerable improvement in output by doing that.
The length of the hoses are like that because I needed to be able to install my quick connects (2 valves + 1 union) for maintenance. Otherwise, the hoses would be crimped and would hinder flow much more than with shorter tubes. I'm not really worried about that as much as the discharge pressure due to the RF UGF. Although it seems to be working really well. I might look into installing a flow meter in the future.
The 2260 has some eheim "noodles" (I forgot the technical Eheim name) at the bottom along with a couse pad, then filled with activated carbon (4x8 mesh), then a fine mesh pad on top of that. The activated carbon is in a mesh bag and I bought it from a water purification company in a 55 lb bag. I'm assuming I'll be replacing the carbon every 4 months or so. This carbon is keeping and will be keeping my tank crystal clear (it is a room divider). The bio filtration is done with my ProClear 300 wet/dry, reverse flow under gravel filter, AND Eheim 2028 Pro II series. This is way more bio filtration than necessary for my tank so I decided to use the 2260 predominantly for chemical filtration. I'm hoping to make this tank as maintenance free as possible so over filtering this monster was my goal from the start.
The 2260 has some eheim "noodles" (I forgot the technical Eheim name) at the bottom along with a couse pad, then filled with activated carbon (4x8 mesh), then a fine mesh pad on top of that. The activated carbon is in a mesh bag and I bought it from a water purification company in a 55 lb bag. I'm assuming I'll be replacing the carbon every 4 months or so. This carbon is keeping and will be keeping my tank crystal clear (it is a room divider). The bio filtration is done with my ProClear 300 wet/dry, reverse flow under gravel filter, AND Eheim 2028 Pro II series. This is way more bio filtration than necessary for my tank so I decided to use the 2260 predominantly for chemical filtration. I'm hoping to make this tank as maintenance free as possible so over filtering this monster was my goal from the start.
OK thanks.
In photo #21, I'm curious what the blue handled valve with the gray body is for between the two PVC ball valves on the output line of your 2260.
In photo #21, I'm curious what the blue handled valve with the gray body is for between the two PVC ball valves on the output line of your 2260.
peterp63;2066527; said:
Yes, raise your return nozzles as high as you can to the water level. It will limit the amount of backflow of water from the tank back into the sump. Test it by cutting the power to the pump and see if it overflows the sump.
The valve is to quickly drain the tank via 2260 pump. Just hook up a hose and water the plants outside in the yard through the window. There is a similar valve on the return line for filling the tank from a hose through a carbon canister to remove metals, chlorine, chloramine, and other impurities in tap water. Makes for quick water changes!! I HOPE!!!!
I found the problem with my sump overflowing!! My return lines from my 2028 and sump pump are connected, and therefore, when the power shuts off water can travel backwards through the Eheim 2028 and back to the sump pump and fill the sump. I was thinking about this in a meeting at work and got a big smile once I figured it all out. Just have to raise up the suction screen on the 2028 and all should be good. Gonna do this tonight!
I found the problem with my sump overflowing!! My return lines from my 2028 and sump pump are connected, and therefore, when the power shuts off water can travel backwards through the Eheim 2028 and back to the sump pump and fill the sump. I was thinking about this in a meeting at work and got a big smile once I figured it all out. Just have to raise up the suction screen on the 2028 and all should be good. Gonna do this tonight!
So, my progress on this bad boy has been s l o w. Once I got everything running and stocked I started other projects and never finished this one. Still need to build the cabinet doors, drawer fronts, install trim, paint, and build the canopy and lighting. I must say that it looks pretty good the way it is though....
In the meantime, I plan on redoing my filtration per some suggestions from you MFKers. I am going to remove the Eheim 2260 and replace it with a pool pump that I bought off of craigslist. I bought a 1 hp pump (3600 gph) AND a pool filter that holds 150 lb of PFS... got a bunch of PVC valves, fittings, pipe, and some pool supplies (nets, chemicals, skimmer, etc., etc.). All for $100. Plus, the pool filter comes with a strainer basket on the inlet (more bio filtration or even filter padding to ensure the UGF doesn't get nasty). Anyways, my plan is to remove the 2260 that is full of activated carbon and connected to my RF UGF and use the pump to circulate the RF UGF. It's rated for 3600 gph, but that's with 2" inlet/outlet whereas I'll be using 1" inlet/outlets on my aquarium. I'm hoping this won't burn up the motor or cause any other problems, but will definitely reduce the capacity of this pump which is probably good... but, that's why I'm posting this. Want to make sure I am not doing anything crazy. Anyone, mechanically does this sound ok? I mean we have DMV's that control by closing off on outlets of pumps all over the place.
So, the point is that I will replace the 2260 filled with GAC with a more powerful pump that will ensure a better flow through the 4" crushed coral bed that is intended for biofiltrating my tank. Plus, I have another tank in need of a big filter anyways.
Next part of this project is to install tees that will allow me to connect 1" hoses to drain my other tanks with this huge pump and discharge the water into an in-ground spinkler system. Again, kinda got this idea from you MFK's. Now that I am keeping tropheus I know that I need to do a lot of water changing and dumping all of this water down the drain seems like a real waste. All the while my lawn is getting its butt kicked by the sun. So, anybody have any suggestions here on this? I will only be installing inground sprinklers in my front and side yard which is pretty small. I will either connect the discharge of the pump hardpiped to the system or run a 1" hose each time I drain my tanks (not likely). The suction will have a connection for a 1" hose similar to Dan's at HAW in Houston (just 1" vinyl tubing) that will draw water from my other tanks in the house to feed the sprinkler system, as well. I considered making the sprinkler system able to use both tap and fish water, but the possibility of contaminating my house water or the main supply was too much (even with back flow preventers and double check valves). Plus, it kinda forces me to do scheduled water changes for the fish. So, what do you guys think about this. Shouldn't be too tough, right??
Now, as for the big ole pool filter. Looks like this with a crazy 6 position valve on top: http://secure.poolcenter.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SX180AA2&CAWELAID=143571580
I plan to use this as my carbon filter for filling my tanks with tap water. I have a huge 55 lb sack of 4x8 mesh GAC that I bought from Sparkling Clear Industries. I plan to pour most of the bag into the filter, lay a filter pad on top, and then a layer of PFS or gravel on top of that to keep everything down. This should last forever and theoretically I shouldn't have to ever add chemicals while doing water changes.... right?
Man, I thought this was a steal when I saw it on craigslist.... hope it all works out. Any and all comments will be appreciated!!!
Thanks!!
In the meantime, I plan on redoing my filtration per some suggestions from you MFKers. I am going to remove the Eheim 2260 and replace it with a pool pump that I bought off of craigslist. I bought a 1 hp pump (3600 gph) AND a pool filter that holds 150 lb of PFS... got a bunch of PVC valves, fittings, pipe, and some pool supplies (nets, chemicals, skimmer, etc., etc.). All for $100. Plus, the pool filter comes with a strainer basket on the inlet (more bio filtration or even filter padding to ensure the UGF doesn't get nasty). Anyways, my plan is to remove the 2260 that is full of activated carbon and connected to my RF UGF and use the pump to circulate the RF UGF. It's rated for 3600 gph, but that's with 2" inlet/outlet whereas I'll be using 1" inlet/outlets on my aquarium. I'm hoping this won't burn up the motor or cause any other problems, but will definitely reduce the capacity of this pump which is probably good... but, that's why I'm posting this. Want to make sure I am not doing anything crazy. Anyone, mechanically does this sound ok? I mean we have DMV's that control by closing off on outlets of pumps all over the place.
So, the point is that I will replace the 2260 filled with GAC with a more powerful pump that will ensure a better flow through the 4" crushed coral bed that is intended for biofiltrating my tank. Plus, I have another tank in need of a big filter anyways.
Next part of this project is to install tees that will allow me to connect 1" hoses to drain my other tanks with this huge pump and discharge the water into an in-ground spinkler system. Again, kinda got this idea from you MFK's. Now that I am keeping tropheus I know that I need to do a lot of water changing and dumping all of this water down the drain seems like a real waste. All the while my lawn is getting its butt kicked by the sun. So, anybody have any suggestions here on this? I will only be installing inground sprinklers in my front and side yard which is pretty small. I will either connect the discharge of the pump hardpiped to the system or run a 1" hose each time I drain my tanks (not likely). The suction will have a connection for a 1" hose similar to Dan's at HAW in Houston (just 1" vinyl tubing) that will draw water from my other tanks in the house to feed the sprinkler system, as well. I considered making the sprinkler system able to use both tap and fish water, but the possibility of contaminating my house water or the main supply was too much (even with back flow preventers and double check valves). Plus, it kinda forces me to do scheduled water changes for the fish. So, what do you guys think about this. Shouldn't be too tough, right??
Now, as for the big ole pool filter. Looks like this with a crazy 6 position valve on top: http://secure.poolcenter.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SX180AA2&CAWELAID=143571580
I plan to use this as my carbon filter for filling my tanks with tap water. I have a huge 55 lb sack of 4x8 mesh GAC that I bought from Sparkling Clear Industries. I plan to pour most of the bag into the filter, lay a filter pad on top, and then a layer of PFS or gravel on top of that to keep everything down. This should last forever and theoretically I shouldn't have to ever add chemicals while doing water changes.... right?
Man, I thought this was a steal when I saw it on craigslist.... hope it all works out. Any and all comments will be appreciated!!!
Thanks!!
