Your thoughts and experiences on plywood tanks

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I personally think if you're going to do DIY, and apply hundreds of dollars or more of sealants and other products to it, you should not waste your time with something so disposable as plywood. I fully expect to get flamed for this...but it doesn't take much to destroy plywood, rending your expensive coatings wasted. If it bends, your coating is likely to crack.. if it gets wet, its likely to swell and/or delaminate and it'll leak..

There are plenty of success stories.. but a lot more failures. I would stick with something more permanent.. concrete or concrete block or solid woods.. things like that. Unless you're talking small scale, in which case its not even worth doing t in the first place.

You are right to a degree. I think most people that build plywood tanks and fail don't take into account the minute movements wood can make such as swelling and shrinking with temps, humidity. Or the flexing you will have when you are working in the tank leaning on it or simply from the decor putting pressure on it. If you build it and take into account those issues before they arise plywood tanks are ridiculously strong. If you just take the time to build a frame for the plywood then coat the inside AND out ( i used Dryloc on the outside of the tank) as well as fiberglass the weak points (seams) you will have a tank, literally. I can walk on mine, climb in and out of it without any kind of fear because it is so well braced. I am confident that that tank will still be standing many many years from now. Moral of the story, don't cut corners or cost, do it right and do it well and you will have a tank you can be proud of that lasts for many worry free years.
 
But if it DOES leak, there is a good chance the tank is ruined. And that's highly likely. I had a heck of a time getting my tank perfectly sealed and was thinking the whole time how much this would suck if the tank was plywood. Basically, very to no room for error when dealing with plywood.

I see people fixing their leaking plywood tanks buy just resealing, it makes you wonder what the integrity of that wood is now after water pushed through it. Its seems to me, that whole leaked through area is a future leak waiting to happen. And very rare is the DIY build that never has a leak at all.

I spent months trying to find the leak when I built mine.. the same for other larger builds.. (nolapete comes to mind).. I couldn't see plywood surviving the trial and error and all that pressurized water going through the wood and having much integrity left. I never did find my leak.. I don't even think it was a pin hole.. you can see pin holes. whatever it was was invisible. it was just several arbitrary coating that eventually solved the problem.

Its just an achillies heel that can be avoided.
 
But if it DOES leak, there is a good chance the tank is ruined. And that's highly likely. I had a heck of a time getting my tank perfectly sealed and was thinking the whole time how much this would suck if the tank was plywood. Basically, very to no room for error when dealing with plywood.

I see people fixing their leaking plywood tanks buy just resealing, it makes you wonder what the integrity of that wood is now after water pushed through it. Its seems to me, that whole leaked through area is a future leak waiting to happen. And very rare is the DIY build that never has a leak at all.

I spent months trying to find the leak when I built mine.. the same for other larger builds.. (nolapete comes to mind).. I couldn't see plywood surviving the trial and error and all that pressurized water going through the wood and having much integrity left. I never did find my leak.. I don't even think it was a pin hole.. you can see pin holes. whatever it was was invisible. it was just several arbitrary coating that eventually solved the problem.

Its just an achillies heel that can be avoided.

I think what stempy is getting at is about building it right, right off the bat. You seem to be bashing plywood tanks based on repair capabilities, which is sort of a different animal. Yup, a glass or acrylic tank should be more repairable than a plywood tank because the two materials don't absorb water. Glass or acrylic aren't immune to issues if not built perfectly, your months of searching for a leak is a good example.

It would be interesting to be able to compare plywood builds that had issues down the line vs those that didn't to see if they could be categorized into builder sloppiness (improper epoxy mix, too few coats, poor bracing, too thin of material, etc) vs a more correct build out. To some extent, any leak in any aquarium, short of being shot by a pellet gun or some other traumatic event, could be considered builder error... and unfortunately it only takes one "error" to cause a leak no matter what the material the tank is built of.

It would seem to me that one difference between plywood builds and glass or acrylic is that the sealing/waterproofing of the seams of glass and acrylic is essentially done between the panel edges while the sealing/waterproofing of a plywood tank is essentially an external seal (inside of the tank, but external in relation of the panel joints). I'd think it would be easier to get it right the first time with plywood, assuming one uses the correct materials and design, simply by putting enough coats on (then again, each person's definition of "enough" is different, and I suspect those who go with fewer coats might have more troubles) and allowing for proper curing before putting the tank under the stress of adding water.

I think stempy mentioned using 7 coats of epoxy. It would be curious to see how many builds going to that type of care, as opposed to taking shortcuts by using 2-3 coats, thin materials and such, are success stories or not.
 
Yeah, everything is a trade off. Definitely a tough balance of cost, available materials, ease of use for building and life expectancy.. For me there is something about coating a $10 board with $100 of sealant...

Even if you get it right the first time, a leak is still an eventuality IMO. Nothing lasts forever. It makes more sense to use materials that you can just patch forever vs scrapping huge portions or the whole thing. And its an aquarium.. its bound to get wet too, even if it doesn't leak. That would be an even bigger travesty IMO.. if one failed because of something splashed on it or a bulkhead leaked and the boards swelled and cracked your lining.

I think your analogy is the complete opposite though.. an acrylic tank has no weak spots.. a glass tank, only the seams are possible leak spots. On a DIY tank, the entire thing is suseptible to leaking.. every single square inch except the window. SO IMO, infinetly more susceptible to failure.

What about the concrete boards? How do those hold up to having water pushed through them?
 
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Stempy - where do you buy the tint from? is it all ebay Only/
 
And its an aquarium.. its bound to get wet too, even if it doesn't leak. That would be an even bigger travesty IMO.. if one failed because of something splashed on it or a bulkhead leaked and the boards swelled and cracked your lining.

This comes back to what I was saying, build KNOWING these issues DO exist. I used dryloc on the ENTIRE outside of the tank. I used the epoxy in the holes I drilled for the bulkheads (that seems like a no brainer to me but people don't do it), I used epoxy on the top frame of the aquarium as well as the frame on the top back side. I can literally do a cannonball in my tank and I'm telling you it would not matter. It is the little things that make the difference between success or failure. Build for the eventualities to avoid those eventualities.
 
Stempy - Thanks man, Thanks a BUNCH!
 
For me there is something about coating a $10 board with $100 of sealant...
I get where you are coming from, but the successful builds typically use shop grade Birch or Oak, so you are closer to 50$+ per sheet. As I started previously, my wife and I are heavy DIYers, so I use shop grade birch a lot and my tank stand top and bottom are both shop grade birch, it doesn't absorb water like cheap subflooring plywood does. For instance, my glass tank was slowly leaking out of a corner and the ENTIRE top of my tank stand was wet for days, after it has dried you would never know it had water on it. It is still just as rigid as it was prior to being exposed to water.

So, it goes back to the materials you choose as well. Strong birch can withstand splashes, continual drips, etc. much better than a cheaper grade plywood can.
 
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