1st time sump opinions needed

Lusus_Naturae

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Oct 7, 2010
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So i could/should go for the dc6000 (1585 gph) then throttle it back to match the 800gph of the eshopps.

What diamter pvc do i go with from overflow to sump ? The eshopps bulk head is 1 inch so im guessing 1 inch lol

From the pump to the tank would be 1 inch as well ?

Thiugh that the description for the dc6000 said it comes with 1 inch barbed fitting.

Also why are pvc preferred over tubing. Looks like i could get the tubing to match the eshopps ?

Would this be appropriate for the return to the tank ?
http://www.amazon.com/U-Tube-Directional-Return-inch/dp/B007Y7PATI/ref=pd_sim_199_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=21BeRd+HhLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=19Z1FW4CVVC9CAQAT6A0
The overflow you posted will work fine, just make sure to clamp your hose on. The reason PVC hard line is preferred is because it doesn't have leak problems when it's done right. Many use flexible piping without issue, you just need to check for leaks a bit more often.

If you attach a hose to the U-tube the water will be pushing under the seam due to the direction of flow, so having a glued PVC pipe is a bit safer. The other option I'd suggest looking at would be the Fluval setup. The hose has no breaks between the sump and the top of the tank, so no leaks either. Here's are the links -

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000256908...UTF8&colid=ZNZWDHHTFBG0&coliid=I2YX4BGJ8AQ275

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Bracke...F8&qid=1454218205&sr=8-36&keywords=fluval+406

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z7UFG...UTF8&colid=ZNZWDHHTFBG0&coliid=I15KD2JX9FRXB5

They all fit together for the flow back into the tank, you just need to fit the right fittings to attach it to your pump.


To address the flow rate. The 6000Lph/1585gph rate is also given at zero head. If the rim of your tank is 1.25 meters/4.1 feet above the pump, you're head needs to be calculated in there too. You'll also need to figure horizontal flow rate if you have a horizontal run.

So to look at this, if you're running the pump at 100% with a 1.5M/4.1 foot head, you're getting about 4000Lph/1056gph. But.. running the pump at 100% maxes you out, and isn't the best for the pump. Sooo... Run the pump on level 3 (old style pump) and you're now at 80%, or 844 gph - which is right in line with your Eshopps flow rate.
 

Woefulrelic

Goliath Tigerfish
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Dec 7, 2013
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got it gonna put this on hold until the week after next, should be done with the move by then and the tanks that i am using to stage the fish will be free.


Woefulrelic Woefulrelic is it your build that dictates that or that's how its always done (drain line bigger than the return line)
My build requires it, I would assume a full siphon would pull water through faster, probably much faster. Every build has its strengths that you want to build towards, that's why deciding a build is the easiest place to start. I'm not knowledgeable on the other sump setups unfortunately.
 

jaws7777

Probation Member
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The overflow you posted will work fine, just make sure to clamp your hose on. The reason PVC hard line is preferred is because it doesn't have leak problems when it's done right. Many use flexible piping without issue, you just need to check for leaks a bit more often.

If you attach a hose to the U-tube the water will be pushing under the seam due to the direction of flow, so having a glued PVC pipe is a bit safer. The other option I'd suggest looking at would be the Fluval setup. The hose has no breaks between the sump and the top of the tank, so no leaks either. Here's are the links -

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000256908...UTF8&colid=ZNZWDHHTFBG0&coliid=I2YX4BGJ8AQ275

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Bracke...F8&qid=1454218205&sr=8-36&keywords=fluval+406

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z7UFG...UTF8&colid=ZNZWDHHTFBG0&coliid=I15KD2JX9FRXB5

They all fit together for the flow back into the tank, you just need to fit the right fittings to attach it to your pump.


To address the flow rate. The 6000Lph/1585gph rate is also given at zero head. If the rim of your tank is 1.25 meters/4.1 feet above the pump, you're head needs to be calculated in there too. You'll also need to figure horizontal flow rate if you have a horizontal run.

So to look at this, if you're running the pump at 100% with a 1.5M/4.1 foot head, you're getting about 4000Lph/1056gph. But.. running the pump at 100% maxes you out, and isn't the best for the pump. Sooo... Run the pump on level 3 (old style pump) and you're now at 80%, or 844 gph - which is right in line with your Eshopps flow rate.
Wow really appreciate you taking the time to explain this. Makes sense also thanks for posting the links.


My build requires it, I would assume a full siphon would pull water through faster, probably much faster. Every build has its strengths that you want to build towards, that's why deciding a build is the easiest place to start. I'm not knowledgeable on the other sump setups unfortunately.
Ok i guess its a matter of tinkering
 

DN328

Potamotrygon
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Aug 14, 2014
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The size of the return and splitting to loc-lines that closely matches is more for the diameter matching the outlet, as close as possible. It's not really about how much it will back siphon. The idea is no back siphon to begin with. If there is, you will want to ensure your sump can accommodate the volume.
 

jaws7777

Probation Member
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Mar 1, 2014
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White house 1600 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington
The size of the return and splitting to loc-lines that closely matches is more for the diameter matching the outlet, as close as possible. It's not really about how much it will back siphon. The idea is no back siphon to begin with. If there is, you will want to ensure your sump can accommodate the volume.
Wouldnt drilling the hole in the return stop the bacl siphon
 

DN328

Potamotrygon
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Aug 14, 2014
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Yes, that's what I had mentioned a few posts above before. I wanted to clarify that the size of splitting the locline to two smaller sizes wasn't anything to do with siphoning.

Anyway when you get started share your progress jaws
 

srt4geezer

Jack Dempsey
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Aug 8, 2015
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TIP: Your drains into the socks. Good idea for sound to have the drain tube extend past the top of the sock into the water inside the sock. I have pvc to the top of the sock open, then flex tube into the sock. With this setup the drain is pretty silent. If drain stops at the top of the sock it is suuuuuper loud waterfall sound 24x7.
 
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DN328

Potamotrygon
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Aug 14, 2014
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TIP: Your drains into the socks. Good idea for sound to have the drain tube extend past the top of the sock into the water inside the sock. I have pvc to the top of the sock open, then flex tube into the sock. With this setup the drain is pretty silent. If drain stops at the top of the sock it is suuuuuper loud waterfall sound 24x7.
Yup, at long as the PVC pipe or tube is about a couple inches or more in the water, that should basically reduce all noise.
 

srt4geezer

Jack Dempsey
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Aug 8, 2015
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I clamped that blue soft pool backwash hose on to my pvc drain at the top of the sump. This made it silent and easy to get the sock out of the sump.
 

DN328

Potamotrygon
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Aug 14, 2014
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I clamped that blue soft pool backwash hose on to my pvc drain at the top of the sump. This made it silent and easy to get the sock out of the sump.
I use PVC's going into the sock that's in the sump. I don't glue the PVC's to the bulkheads in the sump so that I can remove to replace the socks. Yup, many ways to do this.
 
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