DIY down and dirty 90g/40b sump on the cheap (ballin' on a budget)

[mudbuttjones]

Wow super tall is right. Thats a nice set up. Tall tanks are fantastic for where space is limited.

You've got me thinking earlier, I have 3 45* elbows in the Return, I may rum 2" elbows with 1.5" bushings. Your totally right about the cost of 1.5" plumbing. I paid $20 for just a ball valve and union.

As for the pothos the roots arent going to be anywhere near the pump intake. Long story short ive got a 185gph utility pump that uses only 9 watts. The pothos will be in a sort of drip tray incorporated into the sump's cover. The small pump will supply water to a spray bar underwater surrounded by roots. This way it isnt free floating and roots arent a concern. I can keep my water level where ever I want it in the sump. And I also dont have to sacrifice flow from the main return as I will be using a separate pump not teeing off of the return plumbing.

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[creepyoldguy]

Herbie is the shizzle. Had a herbster in my 300 g deep dimension tank. Hate valves are the ticket because it's easier to get the flow perfect. I used a ball tho. Took some screwing around but got it tuned in.

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[noside]

Wow super tall is right. Thats a nice set up. Tall tanks are fantastic for where space is limited.



As for the pothos the roots arent going to be anywhere near the pump intake. Long story short ive got a 185gph utility pump that uses only 9 watts. The pothos will be in a sort of drip tray incorporated into the sump's cover. The small pump will supply water to a spray bar underwater surrounded by roots. This way it isnt free floating and roots arent a concern. I can keep my water level where ever I want it in the sump. And I also dont have to sacrifice flow from the main return as I will be using a separate pump not teeing off of the return plumbing.

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I'm interested in seeing the Planter setup as I can see what you are talking about. I do the same thing but with my Turbo twist UV. Run a power head out of the main water chamber in the sump into the UV and back down into the sump. Doesn't mess with water level at all. I have pothos growing out of the back of some of my tanks but I'd like to incorporate a larger amount into a dedicated chamber. Just haven't came up with a feasible idea for a small planter, lighting etc.

I used to not like tall tanks until I got this one, I thought it was a waste of water space but the fish really like it, and I think its quite intimidating when the tank setup is just about as tall as I am. I'm not short on space just got this tank for free and decided to build it recently. Just a PITA to clean the bottom 3 feet deep is a long way down. It has a 24" depth which is really nice though.

 

[mudbuttjones]

Im considering incorporating a uv sterilizer into the outflow of the small utility pump as well. Still not completely on the idea. I think if I do one it'll be later down the road.

Finished my babyproofing. Ive got 4 little "dead bolt" slide latches. One on each corner of the cabinet doors (opposite of hinges obviously)

If my baby gets through this then im raising macguyver. Lol. I have no idea what om in for

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[mudbuttjones]

Making a hole for the drains.


You think your stand is overbuilt? Thats a 2x4 with a 1x4 glued and screwed together standing vertically as the joist, with a 1x4, 3/4 plywood, and a 1x4 on top.


Starting to mock up the plumbing. 1.5" with a 1" bypass which will go back to the sump. On my other sump setup I like to twist the ballvalves and run water back to the sump during water changes instead of unplugging the pump with most likely wet hands.

Shameless labeling on the valves for those long days after work or long nights after the bar when I wanna do tank maintenance. Sometimes a drink or two helps motivatw one to change the water on a half dozen aquariums.

Picking up the sump Wednesday. We'll see how good the 20+ year old tank looks.


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[noside]

Don't forget to take into account the height of which the sump tank sits off the floor before you cut and glue anything. You need to add the rim thickness and the glass thickness.

I also put all my pumps on top of a sponge or filter foam to absorb any vibrations. Usually the little suction cup feet that come supplied are not that great.

 

[mudbuttjones]

Thats why I had it sitting on a 2x4. I havent come close to gluing anything yet. Just needed to figure out how the plumbing was going to exit the stand and make any last minute modifications before I finished with paint.

Im going to make a small stand/cradle out of 1/2"pvc and have it sit on a silicone pot holder pad. I definitely dont want it sitting flat on the bottom of the sump for noise issues, also I want to make sure I've got some room to spare if I ever go with a larger pump

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[mudbuttjones]

Making some rocking progress this week. The stand is finally finished short of some touch up work.

Black paint is super lame to work with btw. I wish I would've reversed the trim and base colors. Im not totally happy with it, but oh well.



I also added a 1/4" high density (neoprene??) work mat under the tank trim. Im sure not necessarily vital after all the leveling I did, but whatever helps you sleep at night.



Im going to be testing the plumbing with the stand pipes like this. Ill see how it goes

You may notice the bulkheads are "upside down" im running slipxslip bulkheads, none of my parts in the weir are going to be glued. With the nuts inside the tank ill be able to remove the whole stand pipe/valve assembly. I did some digging, and the general consensus is they wont leak as long as the gasket is on the flange side, not the nut side. We will see. Im doing extensive testing before I move the whole rig upstairs.




Who said those rafters are a waste of space? This is where the water will enter the trickle tower. Totally straight plumbing. Aww yeah. Im mounting a mirror to the wall behind the tank so I can peer through the back opening of the stand and see my water level and adjust the gate valve


I'm over my $ 500 budget so far, if you spread the build out over enough time your wife won't notice. -pro tip

Display tank total -$270
...Tank - $240
...Slate for background -$ 15
...Ge silicone 1 - $10
...digital thermometer -$5

Stand total - $215
...lumber ~ $100
...cabinet/door hardware $30
...screws, glue, epoxy $35
...paint $30
...sand paper/painting supplies $20

Plumbing total - $165
...misc pvc ~$70
...danner mag 9.5 $80
...bulkheads, strainers, gate valve $15

Sump total - $35
...40 breeder - FREE
...30sqft acrylic sheeting - FREE
...heaters - FREE (already own them)
...4 sponge filters $20
...air pump - FREE (already own)
...stacking drawers $10
...pothos $5
...sump lighting -FREE (already own)
...Sump fan - FREE (already own)
...insulation for sump.

To do list
-build canopy <$100 (materials left over from stand)
-beamswork 48" LED fixture - $65
-bio balls $10
-pot scrubs $20

Not bad so far.

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[mudbuttjones]

They dont make em like this anymore lol. Definitely doing a reseal.

Makes sense to ditch a 75g from 1994 and replace it with a 90g built in 2014 and a 40b from 1991.


The seemingly endless amount of room filled up very fast. Im not satisfied with commercially available stacking drawers. Time to bust out the acrylic.

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[fishguy306]

Looking great man. I love the idea of the bulkheads upside down! I was trying to figure out how I could glue mine under the tank but still make the parts removable, you solved that issue for me.

The bulkheads upside down will be water tight, I've seen many guys on the reef side do it that way for various reasons.

You may want to reconsider the mat under the tank. Rimmed tanks are not supposed to be put on foam or similar materials, from what I understand it tends to compress unevenly causing the tank to twist. That said, very possible it wont be an issue for you? I'd just be sure to do your homework before you commit to the idea.

I actually really like how the stand turned out, black with the lighter trim. I am jealous you can fit a 40 breeder under your tank!