Drip System for Stingrays

vamptrev

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Apr 23, 2007
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Very easy. Saddle valve with 1/4" plastic line, (just like a fridge line) over to the carbon filters, then a ball valve to control the flow into the tank.

I have three 450 gallon tanks and the amount i drip is usually somewhere around 150 gallons per day per tank


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Raymann88

Candiru
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Jul 1, 2011
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Very easy. Saddle valve with 1/4" plastic line, (just like a fridge line) over to the carbon filters, then a ball valve to control the flow into the tank.

I have three 450 gallon tanks and the amount i drip is usually somewhere around 150 gallons per day per tank


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Wow - That's a lot of water per day. How do you keep the temp even? Whats the ph / hardness of your water? I'm deliberating shutting down the RO unit and increasing my volume of water changes. With the RO unit I'm already going through that much water in a day.


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vamptrev

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Apr 23, 2007
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My ph is about 8.0

I try to keep the tank ph 8 and keep nitrates at about 30. With how much these things eat im dripping about 150 gpd


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swedeboy78

Candiru
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Sep 21, 2011
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My crib
1. Drip flow rate and size of tank or system (if running multiple tanks)----------3-4 GPH

2. Do you drip continuously or drip on a timer?----------continuously

3. Do you drip directly into the tank(s), drip into a storage tank / vat and pump to the tank(s) or drip to a common recirculating sump barrel (for multiple tanks) and pump from there?-----------right into the sump by return pumps intake

4. Do you use a drip system only or supplement with additional water changes either manually or automatically?--------drip only

5. Do you draw down the water level on the tank(s) first and drip the water back up to full or run a continuous drip in with an overflow?----------continuous with overflow

6. Do you drip straight tap water (dechlorinated) or mix with RO/DI systems and if so what percentage of mix?-------3 stage HMA filter






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DB junkie

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Jan 27, 2007
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My PH just keeps going up. Almost 9 now. Way over what it comes out of the tap at.

Water bill is usually around 20K gallons/month.

I want to try going back to manual waterchanges with aged water cut with ro. When I messed around with aging water in the past it was possible to cut the TDS almost in half just by aging. Mix some RO with that and I think you could get "ideal" water without the crazy water bill. Just need to figure out how to do manual changes of say 300 gallons in a short amount of time - maybe tubs above the sump that fill via float valves then just 2-3" ball valves to dump. Then of course a sump that will handle this crazy dump.

Seems to take so much more water to impact parameters when dripping as opposed to manual changes that it seems wasteful. Makes me think drips are just a band aid, and that there has to be a better way.
 

T1KARMANN

Giant Snakehead
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Sep 19, 2005
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If you run a drip it's probably best to drip as much as you can afford to heat the tank

The more clean water the better

I run the drips into the main tank into the flow of a return pump


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jim barry

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jun 21, 2006
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Same here.I run it full bore in hotter weather and throttle it back in the winter months. I also have a radiator under the main tank next to the sump so when the heating is put on for the house in the winter the radiator next to the sump comes on and left at full heat to add space heating to the sump area to try and save on the ridiculous cost of electric in the U.K.
If you run a drip it's probably best to drip as much as you can afford to heat the tank

The more clean water the better

I run the drips into the main tank into the flow of a return pump


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flamenco-t

Piranha
MFK Member
Mar 27, 2006
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South of Heaven
The intent of this thread is not to debate drip systems vs manual water changes but to get feedback from those using drip systems for rays. For those ray keepers using drips, can you provide details such as:

1. Drip flow rate and size of tank or system (if running multiple tanks)

2. Do you drip continuously or drip on a timer?

3. Do you drip directly into the tank(s), drip into a storage tank / vat and pump to the tank(s) or drip to a common recirculating sump barrel (for multiple tanks) and pump from there?

4. Do you use a drip system only or supplement with additional water changes either manually or automatically?

5. Do you draw down the water level on the tank(s) first and drip the water back up to full or run a continuous drip in with an overflow?

6. Do you drip straight tap water (dechlorinated) or mix with RO/DI systems and if so what percentage of mix?

Just looking at tweaking my system and wondering what others are doing. I currently drip 6gph on a 1400 gallon system with 60% tap and 40% RO continuous drip into a recirculating barrel with an overflow. Fresh water is delivered at the base of the recirculating pump which is submersed at the bottom of the barrel pumping water to 5 tanks. The overflows for the tanks are returned back to the recirculating barrel and discharged near the surface where there is an overflow hose to the floor drain. System is set up if there is a power failure, when the power comes back on the water will start to recirculate before the barrel runs dry eliminating any chance of burning out the pump



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1. 600 gallon system, 100 gallons per day

2. Drip on a timer, 10 hours per day. This way, I am dripping MORE volume per hour (less saturated and it'll have significant impact) and I drip about 3-4 hours before I get home, so if there's any disaster or mishap, I can minimize it.

3. Drip to tank, I am using Dosmatic injectors to inject dechlor to the water flow

4. I do backwash on the filter once or twice a month, emptying 80% of the tank water then refill it back up

5. Continous

6. See # 3
 

T1KARMANN

Giant Snakehead
MFK Member
Sep 19, 2005
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London UK
I have never understood why people also drip in tap water conditioners as surely you get the same results from a hma or carbon block

I'm be total honest now this 50/50 RO hma mix is working great for me now it's the way to go for sure the ph gh kh all stay stable and you have some control over the ph
I used to run just hma carbon block and was having problems keeping the ph below 8 as that's what my tap water was now with the 50/50 I can set it at 7 7.5 just with a slight mover of my ball valve



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dxdx

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jan 26, 2010
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NJ, USA
1. 300 gallon tank, drip at 2gph

2. continuously

3. drip directly into tank

4. no w/c but I do vacuum out 5 gallons usually twice a day to get poop from the dead spot and let the drip fill it back up.

5. continuous drip w/ overflow in the sump

6. tap water run through carbon filter
 
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