resealing with black silicon

West1

Peacock Bass
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Sep 27, 2007
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I built my 220 with Momentive RTV 103 from Grainger. Acetyl cure 100% silicone construction adhesive. It's the strongest stuff I could find, check it out.
Lol I just made a thread and asked about the RTV 103
 

fishguy306

Peacock Bass
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Oct 24, 2005
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I always wanted to know, at what point do you just reseal the inside vs having to tear everything down and start from scratch? the tank is only leaking, so all that is needed is just the inside bead correct?
If the tank is leaking you need to start from scratch. The inside bead does nothing in regards to the sealing or holding a tank together. Further, removing the corner bead and reapplying wont do you much as new silicone will not stick to the old. It would do you just as good to put a band aid over the leak.

RTV is the stuff to go with, it is very strong and the color you are looking for.
 

fishguy306

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Because people like to do things the cheap and easy way, even if it isn't the right way. Bad knowledge is passed along and no one bothers to actually look into it before passing it onto the next person. It is the same way with the GE I and II. Really no tank should be built with either of them. They are sealants, not adhesives. They have very little holding power. A bit of research into them past asking fish forums would show that. But again, it is quicker and easier to ask online on a forum and go with what the amateurs have to say rather than look into what the pro's use.

For the record, not saying by any means that I am a pro, far from it in fact. I have just done a good deal of research into silicons and tank building past what is common knowledge on the forums. Obviously you are welcome to follow your own path, for the sake of your home I hope you go with quality materials but at the end of the day that is your call and there isn't much I can say or do to change your mind.
 

spiff44

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Because people like to do things the cheap and easy way, even if it isn't the right way. Bad knowledge is passed along and no one bothers to actually look into it before passing it onto the next person. It is the same way with the GE I and II. Really no tank should be built with either of them. They are sealants, not adhesives. They have very little holding power. A bit of research into them past asking fish forums would show that. But again, it is quicker and easier to ask online on a forum and go with what the amateurs have to say rather than look into what the pro's use.

For the record, not saying by any means that I am a pro, far from it in fact. I have just done a good deal of research into silicons and tank building past what is common knowledge on the forums. Obviously you are welcome to follow your own path, for the sake of your home I hope you go with quality materials but at the end of the day that is your call and there isn't much I can say or do to change your mind.

99% of the silicon is in the inside.. so you're recommending to disable the tank just to replace that last percent? The inside seal is what holds it together.. what else do you think is doing it?

I would say seal in the inside like a million others have done. Done right you'll have no problem. However, completely disassembling leaves you open to all kinds of issues.. from broken frames to broken glass, not to mention an inordinate amount of work just to replace that insignificant 1%.
 

fishguy306

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What do you mean 99% is on the inside? Are you referring to the silicone in the corners? If so you are exactly the kind of person I'm referring to spouting off bad information.

The silicone in the corners doesn't do a thing towards holding the tank together or preventing leaks. It's sole purpose is to protect the silicone between the two panes of glass, NOT hold the tank together. You can build a tank that holds water just fine without the corner bead.

That "insignificant 1%" is 100% of what holds a tank together. If you have a leak it is because the bead between glass is bad, not the corner bead. As mentioned, new silicone does not stick to the old stuff, hence the babe aid comparison. You may cover the hole in the seam but water will find a way around it.

My apologies for recommending that op do the job correctly rather than half ass it, guess I figured he would rather do that than clean XXX gallons off their floor.


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rodger

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Apr 29, 2008
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Fishguy couldn't be any more correct. I did the research before I chose my silicone for my build. GE1 is the equivalent to Elmers glue, but waterproof.

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spiff44

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I wasn't suggesting applying new over old and I never said anything about GE brand silicon.
Obviously you would have to strip out the old thoroughly... I'm saying you don't have to completely disassemble.. the advantage is minute to do so for a heck of a lot of work.

I would also be curious to know exactly what you think is different about the silicon between the glass.. which would only be contacting the most minimal glass surface.. basically the thickness of the glass itself, than the bead on the inside which covers vastly more surface area. So the silicon between the glass is magic, but the bead is not?
 

fishguy306

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Removing the corner bead has a chance at damaging the silicone between the glass. If the tank was built correctly it was put in at the same time as the silicone between the glass. If that is the case it will all be one piece of silicone. Cutting out the corner piece will just further damage the silicone between the glass.

As for the difference, it isn't what I think, it is what I know. I'm sorry you've never taken the time to learn the physics behind it, but I'm not lying to you when I say the corner bead doesn't do a thing towards holding the tank together. If it did 99% as you said, why do people bother to put it in there? Think about it this way, skip the silicone between the glass and if the tank were to flex it would pull your corners apart. If you add the silicone between the glass it keeps the corners together. And yes, that narrow bead that is only as wide as the glass is completely what holds the tank together which is why you want to us a quality silicone that is an adhesive, not a sealant. Consider this, if you were building a box out of wood and wood glue, where exactly would you put the glue? Sure, some may squeeze out from between the wood when you push it together but you certainly would not just put it into the corners and expect it to hold, it would be the glue where the two pieces of wood meet up. Same deal with an aquarium. It is the silicone between the glass doing all of the work.

And no, you didn't mention using GE brand, however several other people in this thread have. Way too many people use GE, it is a matter of time before people learn from their mistakes.
 

spiff44

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I have a very good understanding of physics, actually. Yes, that tiny bit between panes does something.. but is it worth the 85% more effort to completely break down a tank to replace it? That's the point I'm making. Even on rimless tanks, I have never heard of a catastrophic failure from someone only redoing the interior bead. Leaks, maybe... but never complete failure. If it still leaked then they did a bad bead job or prep wasn't good enough.

The point is that suggesting the total break down to the average Joe which dramatically increases the chance of breaking something on the tank to do so is what I have a problem with. When it really isn't necessary.
 
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