300Gal Acrylic Tank Purchase. (Used)

[Mastiffman]

So This is an extension off of the "replacing Front Panel of an Acrylic Tank" thread that I started here on the forum

So I have come accross a pretty decent Deal on a 300 gallon Acrylic tank only, no stand. The owner informed me that there is crazing on the tank. I went to view the tank and it was sure enough horizontal crazing. The tank is supposed to be manufactured by "Tenecor". The owner purchasd it used from someone else and this was the information passed along... Anyway, the tank is Manufactured with .5" Acrylic. Not neccessarily a bad thing if the Acrylic is Manufactured properly... but still not a best practice fro longevity in my collected opinion...

The only thing is that the "crazing" is to the point that there are longer crazing lines formed from smaller ones, closer to the bottom of the front panel of the tank...

Here is my idea. If weldon simply melts the the acrylic together, I want to cut out the front panel, router the edges of the tank where needed and possible along with sanding needed edges and then re-weld a new panel back onto the tank...

I can hear it now that some will tell me that "it can't be done".... But technically, if done right it can be done! I will be putting 17 F1 Cyphotilapia Gibberosa "Moba's" in the tank along with some other compatable tankmates. BUT, the Moba's are still around 3-3.5 inches at this point. So I have some time to perfect the process and skills needed to do this. I am A Very determined individual at will and typically a stickler abuot my quality of work.

What I need to know from you Acrylic Tank Building Experts!!!

- What is the best weldon to use and best companiy to order it from?
- Recommended router bits for pristine welding edges.
- Are there major difference in Cell Cast Acrylic Manufacturers.
- Any Best Practices and Tips that you can offer...

Thanks!


The Tank:



The Crazing.......

 

[scott s]

I Still think buff like crazy.
Anyone know what causes this?? Sunlight, cold...age?
Not trying to derail.

 

[The1and only]

I responded in your other thread. I am by no means an acrylic expert so take what I know with a grain.
1. I use weld on 4 because when I use 16 it leaves bubbles and look horrible. If you have a perfectly flat prepped seam 4 will work perfectly.
2. I use router bits from lowes and do not get good results. I think I need a better router (something variable speed) and better bits. I know my friend that does cabinetry uses Frued bits and he swears by them. UrayJoey (I think that is his screen name) has some nice youtube videos on prepping acrylic.
3. Yes there is a difference in manufactures and quality of cell cast. I bonded two disimlar pieces of acrylic together (cell cast and extruded) and two from the same company (both cell cast) and did a very unscientific test and the similar bonded better. I used scrap pieces and then after curing tried to snap them in half. The different ones broke right at the seam, the similar one broke the acrylic and parts of the seam. I did this because I heard there was a difference and had the scrap laying around.

To my knowledge crazing like that is caused mainly from time, but using lower quality acrylic and to thin of panels will speed up the process. It is from the force of the water and the deflection of the panel.

Like I posted in the other thread your biggest obstacle will be getting a perfectly flat seam. Even the slightest bit off and you will see it and it will not seal properly. It could be done but if it was me I would take the new panel you would need to buy to fix this and build a plywood tank. I know it hurts but after taking on a job similar to this on a 4x3x2 I ended up cutting the tank apart and using the panels for other projects. Your other issue will be will the two cell cast acrylics bond properly. That I have no idea, but I do know there is a difference between manufactures.

 

[ShroomMastap]

@The1andoly - isnt there an acrylic welding paste that is made for uneven edges? like of those cut with a saw blade and they've got grooves? lol just thinking about it because I think I heard something about it on a youtube video once but I cant remember now...

 

[Mastiffman]

I Still think buff like crazy.
Anyone know what causes this?? Sunlight, cold...age?
Not trying to derail.

I don'thonestly don't think that buffy, even like crazy, will remove the crazing being that it's inside the acrylic. If the Acrylic is 1/2" thick, the crazing is about 1/32" under the surface and then is 1/32" deep... That will only make the acrylic thinner than before. Repalcing will be the best method... It will get rid of the crazing completely and make for a worry free Aquarium with 3/4" Crystal Clear Front Panel!!!

I responded in your other thread. I am by no means an acrylic expert so take what I know with a grain.
1. I use weld on 4 because when I use 16 it leaves bubbles and look horrible. If you have a perfectly flat prepped seam 4 will work perfectly.
2. I use router bits from lowes and do not get good results. I think I need a better router (something variable speed) and better bits. I know my friend that does cabinetry uses Frued bits and he swears by them. UrayJoey (I think that is his screen name) has some nice youtube videos on prepping acrylic.
3. Yes there is a difference in manufactures and quality of cell cast. I bonded two disimlar pieces of acrylic together (cell cast and extruded) and two from the same company (both cell cast) and did a very unscientific test and the similar bonded better. I used scrap pieces and then after curing tried to snap them in half. The different ones broke right at the seam, the similar one broke the acrylic and parts of the seam. I did this because I heard there was a difference and had the scrap laying around.

To my knowledge crazing like that is caused mainly from time, but using lower quality acrylic and to thin of panels will speed up the process. It is from the force of the water and the deflection of the panel.

Like I posted in the other thread your biggest obstacle will be getting a perfectly flat seam. Even the slightest bit off and you will see it and it will not seal properly. It could be done but if it was me I would take the new panel you would need to buy to fix this and build a plywood tank. I know it hurts but after taking on a job similar to this on a 4x3x2 I ended up cutting the tank apart and using the panels for other projects. Your other issue will be will the two cell cast acrylics bond properly. That I have no idea, but I do know there is a difference between manufactures.

Thanks. I thought that I heard to use #3 and #12. What I want to do is add corner brackets to the top and bottom corner of the front panel as well as Top and Bottom Braces running along the top and bottom seams of the front panel. I will have to take the sides down with a router by 14" so that the new 3/4" panel fits flush with the end of the top and bottom sheets of the tank... So the only thing that you will see is a nioce flush corner and a 3/4" thick piece of Front Panel Acrylic attaced to the rest of the tank...

@The1andoly - isnt there an acrylic welding paste that is made for uneven edges? like of those cut with a saw blade and they've got grooves? lol just thinking about it because I think I heard something about it on a youtube video once but I cant remember now...

There are a few different solvents used for differnt applications and this is what I need to figure out!

Experts want to chime in?

P.S. I may be picking up the tank tomorrow...

 

[The1and only]

#3 is similar to #4. 3 is just a non flammable version of 4, I use 4 because I can get it local and the guy recommends 4 over 3, but in some areas you can only get 3. If you order it in the can get the lid that helps you pour it in to a bottle for a couple extra bucks it beats messing with a funnel.

#16 is for uneven surfaces but I found it leaves bubbles and is for more less than ideal situations. I used it to make repair and add baffles to sumps. It is ugly but does the job. I got #16 in the can and it is a PITA to apply if you get 16 get it in the tube.

The guy at Ridout plastics where I go always suggests #40 which is a two part and leaves a non seam. They have a display and it is as close to flawless as you can get. The problem is it is finicky and I am to lazy to try i tout a bunch to see what works best.

 

[Mastiffman]

Well when I spoke with the Plastics Supplier by me, they suggested #4. When I asked them the difference, he said that they are absically the same except #3 Dries Faster but #4 Bonds Stronger! They don't have any #12 though and suggested #16 as this is what they use and it's pretty much the same thing.

So I will be going to pick up the tank today around 5:30pm. It will be going in my Attached Garage at this point. I cleaned the entire garage out (I have 4 Mastiffs Right now) and I'm getting ready to make a quick stand to put the tank on until it's ready to bring into the house...

I'm also waiting on my quote for a full 8ft x 4ft sheet of .75" Cell Cast Acrylic that they will cut to size. I will most likely tell them to cut it to 31" as I only need it to be 30" tall. This way I kow that I'm not going to get a short piece and Fudge the whole sheet up... I will be able to cut and router the last 1" to perfection... I think that the hardest part of the job will be preping the rest of the current acrylic before install.

 

[Mastiffman]

Well I picked the tank up today and got her home. I have not cleaned it up yet....

Here is a shot in the garage where the tank will be for a little while until complete...

Not much to look at other than a 300 gallon acrylic tank. But it's definitely a start.







Plan... Remove old panel and make room for new one....

 

[Arowanasc2]

Sounds like a good project. What are the dimensions of the tank?

 

[Mastiffman]

Sounds like a good project. What are the dimensions of the tank?

Yeah, it should prove to be a "fun" one either way....

Dimensions are 8ft Long x 2ft Wide x 2.5ft tall... May current largest "running" tank is 180gallon (x2). One Carlity Plus and the other is a Glass tank.