Both option will work. The other requires a lot more equipment and setup. My idea is simple easy to setup and adjust. Requires no pumps floats or solenoids
You just don't like my idea cause its not your idea
I understand that. But there is the risk of the float getting stuck or the power going out. With the water exiting the tank at the same rate as the incoming water there is not need for a float switch or pump.
unless the flow coming in or going out gets clogged or changes for any reason whatsoever then you need to keep adjusting...
I just thought of another fail safe if something was to ever slow the drain. You could have a drain point on your sump at a certain level so if more water was to go into the sump it would drain off and never overflow the sump.
the sump is three feet below the ground
well if i could do a drain from my sump at a certain level like jcardona1's setup i would be set, no need for float switch, pump etc.... but my sump is three feet under ground below my drain hence the reason for the pump. i understand your idea, but i already have all the equipment and the water changes are working flawlessly nitrates are at less than 20 ppm and getting lower daily, water clearer, fish seem to love the drip method. i don't see why more people do not convert to the drip type of setup for water changes.
Yeah, along with the rest of the people viewing this thread. Your idea is not that hard to understand. But you wonder why nobody is giving you praise for coming up with this genius time and money saving idea? Because it's a BAD idea, plain and simple. I've yet to see one person agree with you.
Well your set then great glad is working out. I should do a constant water flow setup on my tank.
Just wondering how your sump is setup 3 ft below the floor. Is the space incased in cement?