Starting a nano marine tank

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Here you go:
  • Aragonite sand-- Enough to form a 0.5" to 1" layer (unless burrowing fishes are being kept)
  • High quality dry rock-- One pound per gallon or so
  • High quality live rock-- Just used for seeding the dry rock; check for parasites and other nuisances
  • Heater-- Shoot for one that will keep the water at 78°F
  • Salt mix-- I've used the original Instant Ocean and Coralife salt with good results; get enough to get a specific gravity of 1.023 to 1.026
  • Mixing container-- Mix and aerate your saltwater for a few days before using it for water changes; a large Rubbermaid garbage can works nicely
  • Saltwater test kit-- Very important; get one that does at least pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate
  • Hydrometer-- Used for testing salt levels (specific gravity); refractometer is way more accurate than a hydrometer but costs much more

The light that comes with it is pretty good, so you should be fine there. As for the canister filter, only use biological media and maybe Purigen in there; canister filters tend to work against you in a saltwater aquarium if not cleaned regularly, so removing the mechanical filtration will basically turn it into a biological filter/water pump combination (which is a good thing). Removing the mechanical filtration from the filter means that you'll rarely have to do more than rinse the biological media and/or recharge the Purigen. You'll want to do water changes at least every other day in order to keep the water pristine, and you'll also need to top it off at least daily.
 
Wiggles92 said:
Here you go:
  • Aragonite sand-- Enough to form a 0.5" to 1" layer (unless burrowing fishes are being kept)
  • High quality dry rock-- One pound per gallon or so
  • High quality live rock-- Just used for seeding the dry rock; check for parasites and other nuisances
  • Heater-- Shoot for one that will keep the water at 78°F
  • Salt mix-- I've used the original Instant Ocean and Coralife salt with good results; get enough to get a specific gravity of 1.023 to 1.026
  • Mixing container-- Mix and aerate your saltwater for a few days before using it for water changes; a large Rubbermaid garbage can works nicely
  • Saltwater test kit-- Very important; get one that does at least pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate
  • Hydrometer-- Used for testing salt levels (specific gravity); refractometer is way more accurate than a hydrometer but costs much more

The light that comes with it is pretty good, so you should be fine there. As for the canister filter, only use biological media and maybe Purigen in there; canister filters tend to work against you in a saltwater aquarium if not cleaned regularly, so removing the mechanical filtration will basically turn it into a biological filter/water pump combination (which is a good thing). Removing the mechanical filtration from the filter means that you'll rarely have to do more than rinse the biological media and/or recharge the Purigen. You'll want to do water changes at least every other day in order to keep the water pristine, and you'll also need to top it off at least daily.
Click to expand...

Ok thank you very much and I'll let you know how this turns out, but also I would have to do a water change every other day for the whole time I have it or just until it's fully cycled?


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ckcdrummer said:
Ok thank you very much and I'll let you know how this turns out, but also I would have to do a water change every other day for the whole time I have it or just until it's fully cycled?
Click to expand...

Don't do any water changes while it is cycling. Do a big water change once the cycle is over in order to get the nitrates & such down to an acceptable level, then do small water changes (maybe 10-20%) at least every other day after that. Frequent testing will let you know what you can get away with when it comes to water changes, so be sure to test the water as you may find that less frequent water changes will work for you.

What did you have in mind for your livestock?
 
Wiggles92 said:
Don't do any water changes while it is cycling. Do a big water change once the cycle is over in order to get the nitrates & such down to an acceptable level, then do small water changes (maybe 10-20%) at least every other day after that. Frequent testing will let you know what you can get away with when it comes to water changes, so be sure to test the water as you may find that less frequent water changes will work for you.

What did you have in mind for your livestock?
Click to expand...

Well first once my nitrates nitrites and ammonia levels are at 0 I was thinking 2 damsels to help the tank become more healthy, then get rid of the damsels and maybe green chromis or clown fish and a skunk shrimp or fire shrimp. Over all I would like to either get 2 clowns and a shrimp or 2 chromis and a shrimp, what do you think?


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ckcdrummer said:
Well first once my nitrates nitrites and ammonia levels are at 0 I was thinking 2 damsels to help the tank become more healthy, then get rid of the damsels and maybe green chromis or clown fish and a skunk shrimp or fire shrimp. Over all I would like to either get 2 clowns and a shrimp or 2 chromis and a shrimp, what do you think?
Click to expand...

That's going to be a pretty major overstock.

You're not going to be able to keep a clownfish in there as well as any other damselfish (for the most part); also, most shrimps will get too large for this aquarium, so you're limited in that respect as well. Think more along the lines of small gobies such as a clown goby and/or a yellow watchman goby; in the case of the yellow watchman goby, you can add a snapping shrimp, and they will form a symbiotic pair. I think that you should be fine with two small gobies and a shrimp if you keep up with the water changes.

You'll also want to have a clean-up crew that consists of two dwarf blue leg hermit crabs (eat detritus, leftover food, & some algae) and a small snail (helps with some algae).
 
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