How are your water changes automated?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Mine are partially automated. I open a valve on a line to my sumps, when I do, instead of water going to the sump, it flows to my garden.
I drain to pump intake level (all my sumps are wet(almost full)).



to fill I have a mainfold in the sink, I can fill anywhere from 3 to up to 20 tanks at once

I also use float valve to prevent an overflow, not foolproof, but they buy time, and make a bumping noise when the sump is full.

the float valve is the red thing, upper right of the sump.
To test for temp, I finger test flow from a valved tee that sends any extra water thru some new pool filter sand to be rinsed, before the valves are opened to new water to sumps.
 
duanes said:
Mine are partially automated. I open a valve on a line to my sumps, when I do, instead of water going to the sump, it flows to my garden.
I drain to pump intake level (all my sumps are wet(almost full)).



to fill I have a mainfold in the sink, I can fill anywhere from 3 to up to 20 tanks at once

I also use float valve to prevent an overflow, not foolproof, but they buy time, and make a bumping noise when the sump is full.

the float valve is the red thing, upper right of the sump.
To test for temp, I finger test flow from a valved tee that sends any extra water thru some new pool filter sand to be rinsed, before the valves are opened to new water to sumps.
Click to expand...


that looks really interesting. Thanks for posting


I am still trying to figure out how I want to manage water changes. Construction on the room starts in less then a month. I decided I do not want to do drip and do not want anything I can't do my self.
Could I do solenoid valves on a timer to drain the tank and have another solenoid on a timer to fill the tank and turn off with a float valve? They would be filling from a reservoir tank above the racks. would have to figure out a way to fill reservoir I guess
I figured I would drill the tank with two holes. One at the desired emptying level that would be on the solenoid and then a second at a higher level always open to prevent any potential overflow.
 
Your best bet would be to drill the sump to desired dump level I did my water changer after the fact so that's why I had to use a float instead to turn on a pump. I finally hooked my water changer up to the new valve the other day to run it off of my aquacontroller but here is what I have been using for years with no problems at all and very simple to program.

 
jsodwi said:
Your best bet would be to drill the sump to desired dump level I did my water changer after the fact so that's why I had to use a float instead to turn on a pump. I finally hooked my water changer up to the new valve the other day to run it off of my aquacontroller but here is what I have been using for years with no problems at all and very simple to program.

Click to expand...


cool thanks John. Most of my tanks will not be on a sump but will be drilled
 
jsodwi said:
Your best bet would be to drill the sump to desired dump level I did my water changer after the fact so that's why I had to use a float instead to turn on a pump. I finally hooked my water changer up to the new valve the other day to run it off of my aquacontroller but here is what I have been using for years with no problems at all and very simple to program.

Click to expand...

Also is the valve wired directly to the remote?
 
ragin_cajun said:
How long do your filters last? How much do you drip? I just ordered today from filter guys, the "3 stage" system, with a 40 GPD regulator? He said I'd be changing filters every 2-3 months? Does that sound about right? How do you know they need to be changed? I don't want the carbon blocks to wear out and the tap water poison my tank. :)
Click to expand...

Based on the 10tanks I'm dripping, which are different sizes and different amounts, right around 5 months for the 25,000 gallon blocks. We split the line after the first sediment/carbon block into the 2 separate lines, each with its own 25,000 block.

First block is changed about every 3weeks and the others around 4 months......about a month ahead of schedule to be safe.


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Arowana718 said:
How do you guys keep a stable temperature of the new water coming in?


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
Click to expand...

I'm going to regulated by my hot water boiler.. going to have two ball valves, one at the cold water side then the other will be at the hot. After the valves I'm going to tee them together.. if not I guess my heaters in my sump will work harder..
 
My temp drops 2-3* during the water change. Granted it's a big tank and sump so the cold water doesn't have that much of an effect the only way I would try to regulate it is if I was doing a massive water change otherwise I'd rather keep the hot water out of the equation
 
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