I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. What I think you are saying is bb mostly exists where there is a need for it, aka how much we feed and the bio load of our fish, etc.
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HOB capacity
- Thread starter nzafi
- Start date
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I haven't heard this. Maybe I am just not paying enough attention.
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I was working on a diy HOB with a 600gph pump. I was going to build a bracket to hold a large sterlite tub to the back of the tank
this size. I gave up on the project and ended up using both tubs as catch pans for my canisters. Makes servicing a breeze.
The pump was going to sit on the bottom of the tub and have a pvc U tube that went over the rim of the tub/tank. Once primed it would act like a siphon to feed the pump. Inside the tub I was working on a chamber to house a spraybar, tray of floss/bonded pad - then fall into a wet dry and to the bottom through a baffle where the heater was. I had purchased 5 1" bulkheads for the water to return to the tank through a elbow on each bulkhead.
Kind of hard to explain. I ditched thr project due to time and the fact that I didnt have 12" of room to space the tank that far from the wall. The tank is in my bedroom.
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this size. I gave up on the project and ended up using both tubs as catch pans for my canisters. Makes servicing a breeze.
The pump was going to sit on the bottom of the tub and have a pvc U tube that went over the rim of the tub/tank. Once primed it would act like a siphon to feed the pump. Inside the tub I was working on a chamber to house a spraybar, tray of floss/bonded pad - then fall into a wet dry and to the bottom through a baffle where the heater was. I had purchased 5 1" bulkheads for the water to return to the tank through a elbow on each bulkhead.
Kind of hard to explain. I ditched thr project due to time and the fact that I didnt have 12" of room to space the tank that far from the wall. The tank is in my bedroom.
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To build the HOB:
I used a 10inch household water filter casing, a 10 inch piece of 20mm PVC (Ignore the white elbows as they were for something else)
A 20mm ball tap with a 19mm elbow on one side (Not in picture) and a 19mm "Y" splitter on the other side.
Take the 20mm PVC and drill as shown (Bigger holes at the bottom, getting smaller towards the top):
Open the filter casing and get the lid:
Attach the drilled 20mm PCV as below:
Take some filter media (This is a 20 micron standard household cartridge, but you can use whatever you like)
Place it over the 20mm PVC:
Then screw the filter case back together.....
Now for the plumbing:
Get your power head and a 19mm elbow and attach it to the powerhead with 18mm hose,
make sure the long length will reach up out of the tank,
at the top connect another 19mm elbow then connect that to one end of the Y splitter on the ball tap
on the other side of the Y splitter, I connected a short length of pipe, with some standard garden hose attachments that had another tap which is turned off off (the orange tap), ill explain more about this later.
next connect the 19mm elbow from the other side of the ball tap to the "IN" side of the filter, then connect the out to something that will drain the water back into the tank....and your done!!
(I swapped the housing on my filter to clear so i could see what was going on)
NOTE: regarding the Orange tap and the ball tap, when the orange tap is off and the ball tap is on the water flows through the filter, if i turn the ball tap off and the orange tap on, it acts as a water changer, I just attach some garden hose to the orange tap and put the hose out the window and i have a 2000L/h water change!!
This is a pic of another unit i have made thats attached to the outlet of my canister filter, this one has a dual chamber, the first (the one at the back) has a 20 Micron filter, the second contains 1L Macropore, then it goes to a 40w UV
My canister is an Eheim 2264, so i direct about 85% of the output to the spraybar, the remaining 15% goes through this dual chamber, as UV and Macropore with best with slow flow, they are getting about 800L/h
Hope that helps....
I used a 10inch household water filter casing, a 10 inch piece of 20mm PVC (Ignore the white elbows as they were for something else)
A 20mm ball tap with a 19mm elbow on one side (Not in picture) and a 19mm "Y" splitter on the other side.
Take the 20mm PVC and drill as shown (Bigger holes at the bottom, getting smaller towards the top):
Open the filter casing and get the lid:
Attach the drilled 20mm PCV as below:
Take some filter media (This is a 20 micron standard household cartridge, but you can use whatever you like)
Place it over the 20mm PVC:
Then screw the filter case back together.....
Now for the plumbing:
Get your power head and a 19mm elbow and attach it to the powerhead with 18mm hose,
make sure the long length will reach up out of the tank,
at the top connect another 19mm elbow then connect that to one end of the Y splitter on the ball tap
on the other side of the Y splitter, I connected a short length of pipe, with some standard garden hose attachments that had another tap which is turned off off (the orange tap), ill explain more about this later.
next connect the 19mm elbow from the other side of the ball tap to the "IN" side of the filter, then connect the out to something that will drain the water back into the tank....and your done!!
(I swapped the housing on my filter to clear so i could see what was going on)
NOTE: regarding the Orange tap and the ball tap, when the orange tap is off and the ball tap is on the water flows through the filter, if i turn the ball tap off and the orange tap on, it acts as a water changer, I just attach some garden hose to the orange tap and put the hose out the window and i have a 2000L/h water change!!
This is a pic of another unit i have made thats attached to the outlet of my canister filter, this one has a dual chamber, the first (the one at the back) has a 20 Micron filter, the second contains 1L Macropore, then it goes to a 40w UV
My canister is an Eheim 2264, so i direct about 85% of the output to the spraybar, the remaining 15% goes through this dual chamber, as UV and Macropore with best with slow flow, they are getting about 800L/h
Hope that helps....
Seems a lot easier, and unless you have all those spare parts laying around, a lot cheaper, to just buy an AC 110. 
His maybe. But I can make a 3 gallon hob out of pvc fill it with Floss and Pot scrubbies and get a pump that pushes 600+ gph for less then an ac110Seems a lot easier, and unless you have all those spare parts laying around, a lot cheaper, to just buy an AC 110.
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A lot of people can't figure out a simple leak from a poorly seated o-ring much less build something like this. I'll give you credit for creativity, but that is a canister design and not an HOB design.
For around $60 you can just buy the Magnum 250
For around $60 you can just buy the Magnum 250
I am with x raycer on this ....while being a nice alternative to basic filtration homemade filters have their own problems ....the whole point of this thread was HOB FILTRATION... as opposed to cans....2 aquaclear 110's properly set up (double sponge) will easily handle a moderately stocked 150 ....my end point ...?.....try and beat that for $160.... (for ease of setup , maintenance and longevity of media) respectfully , you can't...at least w/o turning to diy.....
i'd love to see someone with some acrylic skills, mad acrylic skills, knock out a handmade 1000 GPH mega hob.
