Yep, unfortunately I should have recognized it. I just thought it was cosmetic, but there was a giant air bubble that was very slowly growing. Instead of monitoring it, I just forgot about it. Now in my defense I didn't know that it should have been a red flag until it broke and I started doing some research...
BTS-Busted Tank Syndrome
- Thread starter koltsixx
- Start date
I've never had a tank fail on me, but this thread has kept me up at night: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/monster-tank-owners-worst-nitemare.94788/
Hello; I have had two tanks fail with the release of most of the water.
The first to let go was a 125 gallon. It was homemade with an angle iron frame and glass side panes. The failure was due to using a standard steel # 8 machine bolt and not using stainless. The tank had a center brace across the top made of light angle iron. In attaching the center brace to the top frame of the tank, which was also angle iron, holes were drilled in two places thru the center brace and the top frame of the tank. Two small steel machine thread bolts were used to join the center brace to the tank. This setup worked well for several years. What I did not keep track of was the rust forming around the steel bolt. Eventually the rust touched the back glass. My guess is that thermal expansion played a role. At any rate a crack formed from the point where the rust touched the glass all the way down to the bottom of the tank. Two pieces of luck in that the tank was in a basement with a floor drain and that I found it when there was still a few inches of water left. I saved the fish.
The second tank was a 55 gallon and taught me to not have a tank on carpet. It was a comercial tank but I do not know the brand. It was many years old. The glass did not break, the seam let go along one verticle corner. I was away from home when it happened so the carpet and floor were soaked. I took the carpet up and was lucky in that the floor did not warp. The wood surface was discolored for good. I also suspect thermal expansion. I had placed the tank in front of a window. I had a thick curtain to block the sun, but suspect a year of seasonal temp changes being so close to a window may have made a difference.
This experience is why I went to the trouble to remove the wall to wall carpet in my current house in the room for my tanks.
The first to let go was a 125 gallon. It was homemade with an angle iron frame and glass side panes. The failure was due to using a standard steel # 8 machine bolt and not using stainless. The tank had a center brace across the top made of light angle iron. In attaching the center brace to the top frame of the tank, which was also angle iron, holes were drilled in two places thru the center brace and the top frame of the tank. Two small steel machine thread bolts were used to join the center brace to the tank. This setup worked well for several years. What I did not keep track of was the rust forming around the steel bolt. Eventually the rust touched the back glass. My guess is that thermal expansion played a role. At any rate a crack formed from the point where the rust touched the glass all the way down to the bottom of the tank. Two pieces of luck in that the tank was in a basement with a floor drain and that I found it when there was still a few inches of water left. I saved the fish.
The second tank was a 55 gallon and taught me to not have a tank on carpet. It was a comercial tank but I do not know the brand. It was many years old. The glass did not break, the seam let go along one verticle corner. I was away from home when it happened so the carpet and floor were soaked. I took the carpet up and was lucky in that the floor did not warp. The wood surface was discolored for good. I also suspect thermal expansion. I had placed the tank in front of a window. I had a thick curtain to block the sun, but suspect a year of seasonal temp changes being so close to a window may have made a difference.
This experience is why I went to the trouble to remove the wall to wall carpet in my current house in the room for my tanks.
I've only had one tank fail. It was a 40g breeder some years ago, luckily it was in my garage. I actually got to witness it fail. The upper frame and seam failed and water started gushing, luckily the fish instinctually swam against the current and I quickly netted them out.
Thanks again for the info. Now we know one of the things to look for when looking over a tank.
I remember this thread by cjfrontlovr it's one of those threads that really put the fear of blow outs in me. I've accidentally over filled a tank and that was a mess I can scarcely imagine what kind of devastation a failure would do.
Thanks for sharing skj. I never considered a metal DIY tank, always thought I'd go plywood if I did attempt it. Good info. though for those considering a metal DIY. I know it's something I wouldn't have accounted for.
I always wondered if thermal expansion played a part in many tank blow outs. Again another impression I used to get was many blowouts happened after water changes. I had considered many times placing a tank in front of a window. Now I know better.
Another failure at the seam. Again a surprise to me, I had always gotten the impression that the glass cracking was generally the failure. Don't know if all my impressions where just assumptions on my part or if the threads some how implied it or I erroneously thought they did. I just know that I appreciate knowing for sure where the tanks failed and the possible whys. Thanks for sharing Wailua Boy.
Just had an Oceanic 140 center brace fall out several months ago. It was probably around 20 years old though if not more. It was still holding water but figured the brace failure didn't bode well for the state of the rest of the silicon on the tank so I got rid of it. Too lazy to mess with another reseal. It was all original.
It was on the stand it came with and was level.
It was on the stand it came with and was level.
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I doubt that thermal expansion plays a large (if any?) role in tank blow outs. Silicone is designed to be able to expand and contract under pressure, so unless it was a poorly done seam, or some other original build based reason, that silicone should be able to expand and contract a million times or more without concern of failure.
In a glass tank, the entire strength of the tank walls is in the thin film of silicone located between the panes of glass. The inner seal is only there to protect water from reaching that thin strip of silicone that is holding the glass panes together. If for whatever reason that outer seal of silicone fails, that is where one will end up having a major seam fail. NO actual manufacturer will typically state on the label that their silicone is designed for underwater use, because all silicones degrade underwater over time.
IME over the years, from what I have seen in person, and/or viewed online, the vast majority of fails are caused from build errors, operator/owner error, and very rarely from an ancient tank whose seals simply gave away from degradation. With proper care a well built tank should easily last 30 yrs.
For the price of an Oceanic, I would expect more than 20 yrs out of the silicone, but probably a good call on your part, spiff. Was it by chance a bow front tank?
