I believe the white spots are from the pin spacers they put between the faying surface prior to gluing. Once the glue is injected they pull the pins. Should not affect the strength of the seam.
Picked up a 535
- Thread starter mrrobxc
- Start date
I believe the white spots are from the pin spacers they put between the faying surface prior to gluing. Once the glue is injected they pull the pins. Should not affect the strength of the seam.
Im going to enjoy following this. Killer tank man!
If you have the budget, go steel. You won’t regret it and can always skin it with wood. I have roughly the same setup and the steel provides more room underneath than most wood builds. Steel is easy to skin and attach with magnets.
I spent a good portion of today reading your thread. I wish I understood the plumbing aspect of this hobby. It was hard to keep up. But I agree, I want a steel stand. I gotta figure how much one would cost for this tank and if there is anyone local that can do it. Your setup is amazing!
I went to take a closer look after work today and it appears the sides are 3/4” and the top/bottom are one inch thick. The seams look great except for the top, rear, right hand corner. It looks like it impacted something since there was a crack at the very top. It wasn’t noticeable at first glance but upon deeper inspection, you see it clearly at certain angles.
Please advise how I can repair this for peace of mind. I’m hoping I can inject some Weldon in there. If so, please let me know which number to get. Any tips or ideas for a permanent solution?
Pictures below from different angles and vantage points.
Please advise how I can repair this for peace of mind. I’m hoping I can inject some Weldon in there. If so, please let me know which number to get. Any tips or ideas for a permanent solution?
Pictures below from different angles and vantage points.
Also, the pic below shows the general condition of the acrylic. Pretty clear with some minor swirls. I’m hoping I can go straight to Novus instead of having to wet sand the tank. If any of you can offer opinions that would be appreciated. Thank you.
Forgot to mention that the sump is a 125. 72x20x20 outside dims. Previous owner glued some glass baffles in there already. Will need to figure out what I need to add in here to get heavy bio and strong mechanical. I’m wondering if this sump will be enough with some poret foam and k1. Still reading up on sumps and trying to learn the whole science behind them.
Wondering if anyone can recommended the ideal flow rate for a pump given this setup if I were to only run the sump. Maybe I’m down the road I’ll grab a big bead filter.
Here’s a pic of the sump.
Wondering if anyone can recommended the ideal flow rate for a pump given this setup if I were to only run the sump. Maybe I’m down the road I’ll grab a big bead filter.
Here’s a pic of the sump.
I would skip the K1 and just go with a static media like lava rock or ceramic media, or something like that. It will give you a higher bio capacity for the space.
For mechanical, I definitely recommend filter socks. I have foam and filter floss in my sump, and I really wish I would have gone with filter socks. I might still switch over if I ever get the time to put something together.
For flow rate, I recommend you look to get at least 5-6X the capacity of the tank. So, for this tank you’re looking to get about 3-3500 gph, depending on if you want to turn over the capacity of the tank or the capacity of the tank and sump together. I’m a big fan of the Jebao DCP pumps. For your tank, I would recommend two if the Jebao DCP 15000 or 18000’s. The 18000 should handle that flow at about 50-60%, which is about 75 Watts each pump. The 15000 you would have to turn up a bit more, but should still be able to do it, I just don’t have a curve. With these pumps, I have had great results running my 8000’s at about 55-60%, so I recommend that others try to get around that as well. I have heard the pumps can make a high pitched whine noise if they are turned up higher. My 8000’s are completely silent at 60%.
