Sump and Plumbing for my 535. Need help

mrrobxc

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I also messed up and put the Union onto the manifold without putting the screw but on it. Had to cut it out and use a coupler to do it all over again. The amount of PVC pipe left for the coupler was just over half an inch. I glued it anyway. Will it being only a 1/2” of PVC aim the coupler affect it to the point I’ll have to worry about failure at that joint?
 

mrrobxc

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Also, I don’t know how I could strap them in. Only the bottom of the three holes is bigger. Could the proper size of the top two hold the manifold enough not to put pressure on the bottom hole?
 

JK47

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I also messed up and put the Union onto the manifold without putting the screw but on it. Had to cut it out and use a coupler to do it all over again. The amount of PVC pipe left for the coupler was just over half an inch. I glued it anyway. Will it being only a 1/2” of PVC aim the coupler affect it to the point I’ll have to worry about failure at that joint?
Can you post pics of the coupler issue? I’m having a hard time understanding, sorry.

Also, I don’t know how I could strap them in. Only the bottom of the three holes is bigger. Could the proper size of the top two hold the manifold enough not to put pressure on the bottom hole?
It should be properly supported since the weight distribution is split between three. If you can, try to use the grey nylon strapping for support. I’ll get you a pic of what I use

Thanks Justin. Made too many mistakes so far.

To your point where you said you used a 1” gasket and used the 3/4” gasket to fill the void. What void were you referring to?
The 1” bulkhead gasket is wider that the flange if the bulkhead. It adds material and helps fill the void from tank to bulkhead. At 1.75” hole the bulkhead nut should be able to be snuggled up but you will see daylight. 1” gasket = sealed, no daylight.

We all make mistakes with this stuff. It’s how we learn

The 1” gasket is larger than the 3/4” bulkhead. There will be a void between the bulkhead thread body and the gasket itself where the bulkhead can slide around. The cut down 3/4” gasket helped fill that void and keep the bulkhead body in place.
 
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mrrobxc

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Can you post pics of the coupler issue? I’m having a hard time understanding, sorry.



It should be properly supported since the weight distribution is split between three. If you can, try to use the grey nylon strapping for support. I’ll get you a pic of what I use



The 1” bulkhead gasket is wider that the flange if the bulkhead. It adds material and helps fill the void from tank to bulkhead. At 1.75” hole the bulkhead nut should be able to be snuggled up but you will see daylight. 1” gasket = sealed, no daylight.

We all make mistakes with this stuff. It’s how we learn

The 1” gasket is larger than the 3/4” bulkhead. There will be a void between the bulkhead thread body and the gasket itself where the bulkhead can slide around. The cut down 3/4” gasket helped fill that void and keep the bulkhead body in place.
Thanks for the clarity on the gaskets. I’ll go pick up a 1” gasket tomorrow. Was wondering if a schedule 80 3/4” bulkhead would work as well. Not sure if the threaded side for the nut os the same size as the regular bulkheads

I’m almost ashamed to show picks of where I had to put a coupler. I put a band of glue around the seam thinking it may help some.

It’s either this or build a whole new manifold. I already measured and drilled the holes in the tank using this one as a template. Would hate to start over and then worry about hole alignment.

50EB7C22-EAF4-43DC-8BE5-97FCCF00337B.jpeg
 

JK47

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Thanks for the clarity on the gaskets. I’ll go pick up a 1” gasket tomorrow. Was wondering if a schedule 80 3/4” bulkhead would work as well. Not sure if the threaded side for the nut os the same size as the regular bulkheads

I’m almost ashamed to show picks of where I had to put a coupler. I put a band of glue around the seam thinking it may help some.

It’s either this or build a whole new manifold. I already measured and drilled the holes in the tank using this one as a template. Would hate to start over and then worry about hole alignment.

View attachment 1306579
Use that alllll day long. Integrity wise it’s fine. Save yourself the headache. It’s behind the tank anyway so who cares how it looks. That’s what your nice scapes are for.
 
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JK47

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If you can, try to use the grey nylon strapping for support. I’ll get you a pic of what I use
This is the strapping I was referring to. It should be easy to find a place to support. You can support the pipes under it, you don’t have to use strapping under the bulkhead. The goal is to take the pressure off of it for insurance sake.

9B2F03F8-005F-433F-8A03-91D3A900FFA3.jpeg
 
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mrrobxc

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Use that alllll day long. Integrity wise it’s fine. Save yourself the headache. It’s behind the tank anyway so who cares how it looks. That’s what your nice scapes are for.
Glad that’s ok. There’s only a half inch or so of overlap so I was very worried.

I took your advice on the intake for the ultima. I am using black flexible PVC and I have to run it across the back to get to where I plan on putting the pump and the filter. How does this look? I’m thinking of adding either a 45 or 90 degree elbow and hook it up to a Union. I noticed you put a ball valve there. Do you recommend I do the same? Might not have the room for it.

E36DD73A-E2D0-4E9D-8755-A3592D936FC0.jpeg
 

mrrobxc

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Oh. And the two elbow are different colors. ....

Figured I’ll use what I have. I am a lousy plumber.
 

JK47

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Glad that’s ok. There’s only a half inch or so of overlap so I was very worried.

I took your advice on the intake for the ultima. I am using black flexible PVC and I have to run it across the back to get to where I plan on putting the pump and the filter. How does this look? I’m thinking of adding either a 45 or 90 degree elbow and hook it up to a Union. I noticed you put a ball valve there. Do you recommend I do the same? Might not have the room for it.

View attachment 1306582
It’s not a pressurized line but is all the more reason to support it.

Use unions and ball valves as often as you can afford. If you ever need to remove the pump for service or to fix a plumbing leak etc... you would have to drain the entire tank if there are no ball valves to prevent draining.

I use them on all pumps and key areas throughout each build. Some get away with one or two and it works for them.
 
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mrrobxc

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