48x48 Workhorse "The Rig"

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
wednesday13 wednesday13 i propose a truce between team plywood and team styro. Best of both worlds.

In all seriousness though, thanks man. I’ve been doing styro under my tanks for years and could easily tell this is better supported. No distortion

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haha... i did notice that foam sandwich in ur pics lol...and i agree, a good solution to an age old problem :) . everythings lookin super classy over there as always man..great work!
 
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Nice job getting it running!

Have a question for you about how your pumps are set up. I was under the impression that external pumps, or at least Reeflo pumps, require a straight run before the intake and another after the output, something like 10-12" if I remember right, to avoid cavitation? More so on the 600 gal you put together than this one, but I was curious if you ever experienced any issues with that? Would save a ton of space no having to worry about that, but I've heard a few times those straight runs are important.

The union ball valves I use are no less than 10” each. The 2” more so. I’ve been running them this way for years so if it’s an issue this is the first I’ve heard of it. Can’t speak to what’s proper but this technique has served me well, no complaints here.

haha... i did notice that foam sandwich in ur pics lol...and i agree, a good solution to an age old problem :) . everythings lookin super classy over there as always man..great work!

Thank you sir!
 
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Finished the pump manifold for accessories. This runs off the diverter valve in 3 open channel mode (heat, UV, aux) or closed when capped.

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Cleanest, black low profile manifold I could find. Way better than making my own.

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The line can be capped at the union (matches opposing side backwash cap), manifold hooked on or auxiliary backwash line. It takes seconds to swap out and is easy access.

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Also installed the power supply so I could light up the work area.

I mounted it so my hand hits the light switch first with minimal reaching, easy access

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Swift kick to the nuts during the leak test... there is only one but it is leaking heavily.

This was the last piece I put on the system. I rotated the elbow with the union end into the other union end for a perfect fit. I threaded it on and forgot to put my pump shims back. It sagged and separated while drying...

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Pro tip: with a hair dryer or heat gun and the proper amount of force/technique you can separate PVC fittings.

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I used a razor to clean off excess solvent. Using fresh clear PVC cleaner for a few minutes cleans and softens the PVC allowing you to re-weld it. It will look a little milky but brand new strong.

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^ no question as to why one should use unions and ball valves. The plumbing and tank are full yet I can still work on a small section and only need a towel.

To rebuild that piece would have cost $40. The PVC reweld cost no bucks and 11 minutes to fix.
 
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Finished the pump manifold for accessories. This runs off the diverter valve in 3 open channel mode (heat, UV, aux) or closed when capped.

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Cleanest, black low profile manifold I could find. Way better than making my own.

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The line can be capped at the union, manifold hooked on or auxiliary backwash line. It takes seconds to swap out and is easy access

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Also installed the power supply so I could light up the work area.

I mounted it so my hand hits the light switch first with minimal reaching, easy access

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I love that power strip/light. Any chance you can post a link to it?
 
The leak is fixed. Glad I didn’t have to rebuild that.

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The Ultima/Dart combo is now running for the shake down test on its own. So far it looks like the shim issue was the only major oversight.

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The red handles in normal operating position look a lot better opened up. All handles in the back are red and up front are all black without paint

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Quick question I've been wanting to ask! Do you have a check valve on the air pump? I haven't seen one on this build.
 
Quick question I've been wanting to ask! Do you have a check valve on the air pump? I haven't seen one on this build.

Nope. I haven’t sorted that piece yet. Air management is next so if you have any ideas in 3/8” or 1/2” LMK please
 
I've seen 3/8" offered here on a quick search https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369&catid=489

They have a quite a few model air check valves, might want to peruse through them. Double check if they require mounting in a certain direction and the lowest cracking pressure available.

I mounted my central air pump higher than the tanks so don't need one but you will definitely need one.

Which model Alita do you have?
 
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