I have been looking into acrylic options (and have been in contact with Chris at Midwestern Custom Aquarium). I will keep the exact tank dimensions as I've had before since that is really as long and wide as I go given my the rooms it sits in between. Below is my (really amateur) sketch of the view looking down at the tank to illustrate what I wanted - also helps me to think through some ideas. The one key difference of this tank (than my previous) is rather than a internal overflow, I'm looking to have an external/ghost overflow.
I'll have 3 x 1.5" bulkheads and run a bean animal. I will also have bulkheads drill for a closed loop circulation as want to keep the tank looking as "clean" as possible for the peninsula. I believe the overflow will be about 20"L x 4"W x??H, and I'm not sure how tall it will be, yet. I imagine the total water volume with a sump will be roughly 300gallons. I'd like to be able to get 7x turnover and have the weir and overflow box that can handle ~2100gph (considering head pressure). What I didn't like about my old tank was the water level was too close to the top, and I'd like the level in this one to stay at that standard ~2" with the volume of turnover.
As this tank is sitting in my dining and living room, I've been thinking through how best to have a clean plumbing design from overflow to the sump. I think that's fairly straightforward for a bean animal, but running the return split with a T and back out the same back side will be challenging to keep the plumbing looking clean under the stand and behind the end back wall. Also, I will have the closed loop circulation to contend with. This is basically what I had before, but there, all the plumbing was in the internal box, whereas most of the filtration and return plumbing will be coming out the end of the tank. I think this makes easier access for working on the tank, but asthetics is a close second priority, after function.
For folks having experienced with external overflow boxes, is there anything I should consider? Do you think the overflow box I've sketch handle the ~2100GpH? JK47 , I've seen some of your sexy plumbing and would love your inputs. Actually anyone or everyone that wants to chime in - you know who you all are ; - ) Inputs welcomed...
I'll have 3 x 1.5" bulkheads and run a bean animal. I will also have bulkheads drill for a closed loop circulation as want to keep the tank looking as "clean" as possible for the peninsula. I believe the overflow will be about 20"L x 4"W x??H, and I'm not sure how tall it will be, yet. I imagine the total water volume with a sump will be roughly 300gallons. I'd like to be able to get 7x turnover and have the weir and overflow box that can handle ~2100gph (considering head pressure). What I didn't like about my old tank was the water level was too close to the top, and I'd like the level in this one to stay at that standard ~2" with the volume of turnover.
As this tank is sitting in my dining and living room, I've been thinking through how best to have a clean plumbing design from overflow to the sump. I think that's fairly straightforward for a bean animal, but running the return split with a T and back out the same back side will be challenging to keep the plumbing looking clean under the stand and behind the end back wall. Also, I will have the closed loop circulation to contend with. This is basically what I had before, but there, all the plumbing was in the internal box, whereas most of the filtration and return plumbing will be coming out the end of the tank. I think this makes easier access for working on the tank, but asthetics is a close second priority, after function.
For folks having experienced with external overflow boxes, is there anything I should consider? Do you think the overflow box I've sketch handle the ~2100GpH? JK47 , I've seen some of your sexy plumbing and would love your inputs. Actually anyone or everyone that wants to chime in - you know who you all are ; - ) Inputs welcomed...