Also consider a rack for a couple 75s or 125s and just using dividers to make separate growout chambers. That would help with the heater problem and simplify filtration as well.
Diy grow out rack
- Thread starter Rob909
- Start date
Also consider a rack for a couple 75s or 125s and just using dividers to make separate growout chambers. That would help with the heater problem and simplify filtration as well.
With the system you pictured you are going to loose a lot of flow through the canister filter. A canister filter is designed to return the water to the same height it came from which gives it a 0" head height. Due to this canister filters have smaller pumps that are quite wimpy compared to sump pumps. With your configuration you are adding considerable head height to the canister filter pump so it will be doing a lot more work than it was designed to do. I would have zero worry about adverse effects to the canister filter pump BUT this added head height will reduce the flow considerably.
The head height will be the water level of the bottom tank to the water level of the top tank no matter where the canister is placed.
P.S. you will still have a problem with water settling to the bottom tank when the power is turned off even if you use a back flow valve in the return line. The running water level in the top tank will be 1/4" to 1/2" above where it will be when the power is cut. This 1/2" of water will settle through the overflow to the bottom tank which will rise 1/2". Maybe you already understood this but I wasn't sure from the conversation.
Individual filters, like the air powered sponge filters you mentioned does sound like it would be a lot easier to setup and maintain.
The head height will be the water level of the bottom tank to the water level of the top tank no matter where the canister is placed.
P.S. you will still have a problem with water settling to the bottom tank when the power is turned off even if you use a back flow valve in the return line. The running water level in the top tank will be 1/4" to 1/2" above where it will be when the power is cut. This 1/2" of water will settle through the overflow to the bottom tank which will rise 1/2". Maybe you already understood this but I wasn't sure from the conversation.
Individual filters, like the air powered sponge filters you mentioned does sound like it would be a lot easier to setup and maintain.
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Id love to do something like that but it’s going upstairs so I want to keep weight as low as possible since I don’t know what that floor is able to hold and it’s a newer home, so I can’t imagine it’s braced that well. I know for a fact there are no load bearing walls below it. Just the sacrifice of an open design I suppose.
Good advice here, I didn’t think of this. Maybe I run a single level rack on 2x4 and cinder blocks to keep the head height level with the return. The extra weight would be better distributed with a longer stand too. Glad I posted before pulling the trigger.
What are you planning on growing out? Are these going to be bare bottom tanks? How much filtration / flow do you think you will actually need?
All the tanks on the same level will definitely solve several problems. I would recommend venturing to the local fish store and take a look at how they setup their racks. They have the same issues mentioned above so it would be a good place to see how they solved the problems. My local fish store would be happy to show me their filtration systems if I told them what I am doing and asked to see theirs. I am of course referring to a fish store not a Petsmart or Petco.
The grow out is for bristlenose plecos for now, but I want to try my hand at something a little more difficult. Not for money, just for pure interest and to learn from.
My lfs has their racks set up with sumps on a dual level rack. My eventual plan, but I wanted to (Safely) cut corners and use spare filtration while my sump is tied up on my 125.
Once I finally upgrade my 125, it will become the new sump, then my current sump can filter the rack.
Luckily, I’m still in the planning stages so nothing has been committed to or purchased. I posted here just to see if there are HUGE flaws that I overlooked, so I can revisit the design, change the filtration, etc.
I wouldn’t recommend running it the way your design is setup. Ditch the canister and go with a sump. Plump a manifold so the return pump empties into each tank on the top row. Then have each tank drain to the tank below, and then to the sump below. You can make a sump out of rubber tote if money is an issue. That’s how lfs setup their racks. Your over complicating a simple thing. If you don’t have the funds to do it the right way, then put the build on hold until you do IMO.
You can try something like this.
I'd do air driven, and it'll probably be exactly what I do when I do it.
How to wire Flex Watt heating tape for betta jars and tanks
Some of the most common questions I get involve how to heat betta jars and tanks. Using Flex Watt heating tape makes heating many individual jars very easy! Multiple Flex Watt tapes can also be...
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Why dont you get 2 large tanks and use dividers with a fine mesh to split into 4? That woukd solve the issue if you wanted to use sponges and could also use one heater to heat each tank
That’s actually really cool! I need to watch the full video a little later! That would make an air driven system a much better idea.You can try something like this.
I'd do air driven, and it'll probably be exactly what I do when I do it.How to wire Flex Watt heating tape for betta jars and tanks
Some of the most common questions I get involve how to heat betta jars and tanks. Using Flex Watt heating tape makes heating many individual jars very easy! Multiple Flex Watt tapes can also be...www.ingloriousbettas.com
