Looking at UV filter for 750g System
- Thread starter dr exum
- Start date
you think get two of the smaller lifeguard units and disregard the wanted flow rate -
i have two fx’4 ‘s i can use or have to buy another pump...
I would definitely stay away from amalgam. It requires high flow to keep cool.
You want to turn the entire water volume at least one time per hour. 700-800gph is fine. Then determine what UV dosage you want. Most people go with 50mJ/cm^2. This will give you the wattage required.
PM me your parameters. I can calculate for you a recommendation.
kendragon
hey, i ended up with the pro max 90 - the other brand was ~$1700 -
i actually got two of these 90w 5” units for $500...
i’m not worried about over heating tank as i’m running 1600watts of heater on there to keep up with the cold water drip -
i have a 2800gph pump
question is run 1 or 2?
thanks!
One thing to realize with UV, is that if the organism doesn't pass thru the tube, it isn't phased.
This means any predominantly sessile organism, such as beneficial bacteria, or algae growing on surface are not affected.
Even some or those less than motile parasites are not killed unless they pass thru the unit.
If you bring in a fish that already has ick, a UV unit will not efficiently cure it.
Because the parasites already buried into the fish skin, are not touched, and even as they hatch off, unless they get swept in the unit with not be killed.
Those that are swept in to the unit, will only be killed (and/or have their organelles scrambled) if they spend enough time exposed to the UV light.
With too high a flow rate, certain parasites (those protozoa with substantial cell walls) will pass thru unaffected.
I consider slower flow rates as generally better for protozoal control.
A UV unit is "not" a panacea, it is not a substitute for a quarantine tank, or even meds, if some diseases are introduced to your closed system.
The sleeve needs to be immaculately clean, if any debris or sludge gets in, it can ruin efficacy, so water should be highly filtered before entering the unit, and regular maintenance done to make sure there i no buildup.
This means any predominantly sessile organism, such as beneficial bacteria, or algae growing on surface are not affected.
Even some or those less than motile parasites are not killed unless they pass thru the unit.
If you bring in a fish that already has ick, a UV unit will not efficiently cure it.
Because the parasites already buried into the fish skin, are not touched, and even as they hatch off, unless they get swept in the unit with not be killed.
Those that are swept in to the unit, will only be killed (and/or have their organelles scrambled) if they spend enough time exposed to the UV light.
With too high a flow rate, certain parasites (those protozoa with substantial cell walls) will pass thru unaffected.
I consider slower flow rates as generally better for protozoal control.
A UV unit is "not" a panacea, it is not a substitute for a quarantine tank, or even meds, if some diseases are introduced to your closed system.
The sleeve needs to be immaculately clean, if any debris or sludge gets in, it can ruin efficacy, so water should be highly filtered before entering the unit, and regular maintenance done to make sure there i no buildup.
thanks, any thoughts on 90watt vs 180w ?
mfg suggested 1800gph -
i may have been transferring disease from tank to tank via python -
The higher the watt the better the kill possibility.
But at 1800 gallons per hour whatever passes thru the unit will spend maybe only a few seconds of detention time in the UV unit.
Most bacteria need at least 10 seconds of exposure to the light to get their DNA scrambled.
Many protozoa (i.e. Ick) need longer exposure under the lamp because of their more complex cell walls.
There are a number of other "rubs" here.
Many protozoa and bacteria live in tandem with detritus, and detritus needs to be filtered out before entering the UV unit for it to be effective.
So if pathogens get caught in the filter with detritus before entering the UV unit.........
Another problem is that many bacteria live inside the gut of fish (bloat), or in lesions on the fish (HLLE), and only became problematic if the fish are under stress, so these pathogens may never enter a UV unit.
What disease are you attempting to eliminate?
But at 1800 gallons per hour whatever passes thru the unit will spend maybe only a few seconds of detention time in the UV unit.
Most bacteria need at least 10 seconds of exposure to the light to get their DNA scrambled.
Many protozoa (i.e. Ick) need longer exposure under the lamp because of their more complex cell walls.
There are a number of other "rubs" here.
Many protozoa and bacteria live in tandem with detritus, and detritus needs to be filtered out before entering the UV unit for it to be effective.
So if pathogens get caught in the filter with detritus before entering the UV unit.........
Another problem is that many bacteria live inside the gut of fish (bloat), or in lesions on the fish (HLLE), and only became problematic if the fish are under stress, so these pathogens may never enter a UV unit.
What disease are you attempting to eliminate?
