Bocourti with hole in the head???

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
L

laurad83

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 17, 2020
14
7
8
43
Have you tested your water?
Yes
If yes, what is your ammonia?
0
If yes, what is your nitrite?
0
If yes, what is your nitrate?
10-20
If I did not test my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.
Do you do water changes?
Yes
What percentage of water do you change?
51-60%
How frequently do you change your water?
Every week
If I do not change my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.
I need some advice regarding my Cichlasoma Bocourti. I think he might have the start of hole in the head... it all started like a week ago when I noticed he had a white ‘pimple’ on his nose. Since the day before he had hit the driftwood while I was feeding him, I thought it was from it. Now that pimple has become a little hole, plus he’s got another little hole next to it and another pimple on the other side. He’s about 35cm. Have had him for about a month and a half. He’s in a 520L tank with a Raphael catfish and two bristlenose catfish. I’ve got a Fluval Fx6 and wave maker. Tank is cycled, we’ve had it setup for probably a year. Parameters are: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10-20 nitrate. I do a 50-70% water change a week.
I’ve never had anything like this happening before. Any suggestions on what I should do?

Also, I’m having some problems researching the Bocourti’s diet. I’ve found pages saying they’re herbivorous, some others that they should be fed both veggies and meaty products. I’ve been feeding x-Treme big fella and Aqua munch cichlid bites and, sometimes, bleached zucchini. Lately also some algae wagers since I thought he wasn’t getting enough vegetables, and I think I might have caused the hole in the head due to poor nutrition.

His behaviour hasn’t changed at all. He’s always hungry!!!66A73FE4-34E0-4025-85EA-F7064B477458.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
I have kept both bocourti and pearsei, a number of times, and yes they are primarily herbivores, but this doesn't mean they don't scarf up invertebrates on the plants they eat, or would pass up a high protein meal if it dropped in their face. Mine seemed to like earth worms.
So along with lots of leafy greens, I would feed a high quality pellet like AlgaeMax by NLS (beside the occasional worms).
Because of the fiber in their diet they are massive waste producers, and I found unless I did more water changes than normally expected with lots of vacuuming nitrates in their tanks became problematic, so I would do 30-40% water changes every other day to keep water quality up (nitrate 0 - 5ppm) and sometimes daily after especially fibrous meals every day.
1604230957334.png
1604230986682.png
Mine could polish off large clumps dandelion plants in only a few moments.
1604231069834.png
1604231135976.png
The white spot on the left of your photo does not look like HLLE to me, but some other infection beginning.
Whether the one on the right is HLLE, more photos would help.
If it were me, I'd increase frequency of water changes to double or triple the norm.
I have snorkeled the area where these cichlids live, and they are in constant 100% water change from underground aquifers upwelling thousands of gallons of new water from the heavy rains percolating thru the lime stone, so water quality is very high in their natural habitat.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
Than
duanes said:
I have kept both bocourti and pearsei, a number of times, and yes they are primarily herbivores, but this doesn't mean they don't scarf up invertebrates on the plants they eat, or would pass up a high protein meal if it dropped in their face. Mine seemed to like earth worms.
So along with lots of leafy greens, I would feed a high quality pellet like AlgaeMax by NLS (beside the occasional worms).
Because of the fiber in their diet they are massive waste producers, and I found unless I did more water changes than normally expected with lots of vacuuming nitrates in their tanks became problematic, so I would do 30-40% water changes every other day to keep water quality up (nitrate 0 - 5ppm) and sometimes daily after especially fibrous meals every day.
View attachment 1438040
View attachment 1438043
Mine could polish off large clumps dandelion plants in only a few moments.
View attachment 1438044
View attachment 1438045
The white spot on the left of your photo does not look like HLLE to me, but some other infection beginning.
Whether the one on the right is HLLE, more photos would help.
If it were me, I'd increase frequency of water changes to double or triple the norm.
I have snorkeled the area where these cichlids live, and they are in constant 100% water change from underground aquifers upwelling thousands of new water from the heavy rains percolating thru the lime stone, so water quality is very high in their natural habitat.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! I will increase my water change. Also, I’ll try take some more photos tomorrow as my lights are off atm (I live in Australia).
The first hole also started as a ‘pimple’, like the one he has to the left, and it turned into a hole in 3-4 days.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
Would u treat him now? I’d have to put him in a quarantine 90L tub. And, if so, what would u use (kanaplex and metronidazole, as per fb suggestion)??
Or just increase water changes, put him on a more appropriate diet and see if he improves?

Also, are aquarium plants like foxtail and millfoil good for his diet?

Thank you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
laurad83 said:
Would u treat him now? I’d have to put him in a quarantine 90L tub. And, if so, what would u use (kanaplex and metronidazole, as per fb suggestion)??
Or just increase water changes, put him on a more appropriate diet and see if he improves?

Also, are aquarium plants like foxtail and millfoil good for his diet?

Thank you.
Click to expand...
As Duane’s said. Increase ur water changes and adjust its diet. If not better then consider some hex shield and maybe putting methylene blue over the affected areas with a qtip. Keep in mind if the fish is stressed due to other reasons then hith will continue. It’s not always a bacterial although that’s one way and main way hobbyists treat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
If it is HLLE , it is not communicable (that I know of), and I don't treat with anything, unless I know exactly what it is, except maybe with salt.
Bocourti come from areas near the sea, so salt is no problem. I use 3 lbs per 100 gallons for things like ick.
If its viral, there are no effective treatments.
If bacterial, then the proper antibiotic might depend on whether the bacteria is gram negative, or gram positive. There however, are full spectrum possibilities.
Sometimes simply upping the water change schedule, and changing diet to a more appropriate regime will do wonders.
Too much non-digestable protein can be problematic with these vegetarians. Not saying that's what you've been doing, but if you've been feeding a high protein diet meant for carnivores, that could be problematic.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
Whatever it is, it’s getting worse. Fish is still fine and always hungry.
Since my first post, I’ve done 3 water changes (50%+ each time) and 2 days ago I’ve also cleaned the FX6 ( wasn’t dirty at all!).
Ammonia is 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate around 5. He’s been getting zucchini, corn, tried spinach and peas as well, but he doesn’t seem to like these. I’ve removed the Raphael catfish since he needs a different diet and couldn’t feed him otherwise.
Suggestions?
 
It does look bacterial, so keep up the water changes.
What temp are you running?
The average range in temps where bocourti live in nature are 75'F to 82'F.
Bacteria are most virulent at 82'F and above, so running the tank at the lower end of range might help.
I would also add salt (3 lbs per 100 gallons), and whatever broad spectrum antibiotic available in your area would probably help
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
duanes said:
It does look bacterial, so keep up the water changes.
What temp are you running?
The average range in temps where bocourti live in nature are 75'F to 82'F.
Bacteria are most virulent at 82'F and above, so running the tank at the lower end of range might help.
I would also add salt (3 lbs per 100 gallons), and whatever broad spectrum antibiotic available in your area would probably help
Click to expand...

I’ve got an ink bird temperature controller. At night it’s set on 25 (77) -1 degree tolerance- while it’s set on 27 (80) during the day -2 degrees tolerance-
Should I set up a hospital tank rather than treat the whole tank? Don’t want to put anything that would stain the tank and, if I add salt, I’d have be to remove the bristlenose!
 
  • Like
Reactions: tlindsey
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom