I test parameters when I noticed fish behavior is unusual or new setup cycling. Matter of fact the API test kits expire before I use all test regents except Nitrate. I just have test strips.
API test kit, help!
- Thread starter Caveden
- Start date
I test parameters when I noticed fish behavior is unusual or new setup cycling. Matter of fact the API test kits expire before I use all test regents except Nitrate. I just have test strips.
After fully cycling a tank, if the fish is growing (first 1 year) once a week. Then it goes to weekly API nitrates, then monthly nitrates. Checking the tap water source at least once a month for baseline readings.
For 50 aquarists you might get 50 different answers.
It all depends on your tank.
If you have a 100 gal tank with 100 neons, once you've tested a few times, you may seldom need to test again, unless something appears amiss.
If you have a 200 gal tank with1 arowana, and 3 adult oscars, because of waste output, and water parameter volatility, you may need to test minimally every week, depending on you're particular feeding schedule, and the stability and source of your tap water.
If your tap water comes from a river that changes seasonally, you may need more frequentr testing.
My source in the US was lake Michigan, a very stable water body, I only felt the need to test once per week.
If your source is a stable municipal well, maybe not so much. (depending on that waters buffering capacity)
And then there is what your perception of what good water quality is, and what is required by the type fish you keep.
Because I keep rheophiillic cichlids, and their natural waters barely ever exceed 1ppm in nitrate, that's what I determine good water quality is.
If I kept fish like certain anabantids that are from, high nitrate rice paddies, a test that determines how long it takes the tank to reach a 20 ppm nitrate before a needed water change ceiling may fit my testing regime.
And just as smaller tanks need more water changes than larger more stable ones (if stocking is reasonable) size of tank may also determine how often testing needed, because that volatile window of what is good water quality can open or close on a dime..
It all depends on your tank.
If you have a 100 gal tank with 100 neons, once you've tested a few times, you may seldom need to test again, unless something appears amiss.
If you have a 200 gal tank with1 arowana, and 3 adult oscars, because of waste output, and water parameter volatility, you may need to test minimally every week, depending on you're particular feeding schedule, and the stability and source of your tap water.
If your tap water comes from a river that changes seasonally, you may need more frequentr testing.
My source in the US was lake Michigan, a very stable water body, I only felt the need to test once per week.
If your source is a stable municipal well, maybe not so much. (depending on that waters buffering capacity)
And then there is what your perception of what good water quality is, and what is required by the type fish you keep.
Because I keep rheophiillic cichlids, and their natural waters barely ever exceed 1ppm in nitrate, that's what I determine good water quality is.
If I kept fish like certain anabantids that are from, high nitrate rice paddies, a test that determines how long it takes the tank to reach a 20 ppm nitrate before a needed water change ceiling may fit my testing regime.
And just as smaller tanks need more water changes than larger more stable ones (if stocking is reasonable) size of tank may also determine how often testing needed, because that volatile window of what is good water quality can open or close on a dime..
I always tell myself I should test more often...but in reality I don't think i need to. I am not constantly adding and removing fish, and my tanks are not heavily stocked. My source water (deep well) is completely stable, and I change water frequently and in large volume. So...with no real changes going on...once I have a tank's "rhythm", so to speak, nailed down...I rarely test anything.
But if I have a new tank, or a large shuffling around of stock, or any other changes, then I will test frequently. I put a bunch of fish into outdoor stock tanks a few weeks ago and have tested that water a lot...but by the end of summer that will slow to a crawl as those tanks stabilize. Then, when the fish move back inside, a flurry of testing until things settle back down to normal. Then very little until next spring.
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tlindsey
I usually find myself throwing away expired test chemicals for all but nitrate before I use them up.
But if I have a new tank, or a large shuffling around of stock, or any other changes, then I will test frequently. I put a bunch of fish into outdoor stock tanks a few weeks ago and have tested that water a lot...but by the end of summer that will slow to a crawl as those tanks stabilize. Then, when the fish move back inside, a flurry of testing until things settle back down to normal. Then very little until next spring.
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tlindsey
I usually find myself throwing away expired test chemicals for all but nitrate before I use them up.
Usually I'd very rarely test. You get to a stage where you just know. However, just lately I've been doing a few experiments and so have been testing more than usual.
The thing that bugs me is that we all get to this stage where we no longer need to test, but we have to have the kit on hand, just in case.
The bottles expire and you've hardly used any of the liquid, but because of the "just in case" factor we have to replace those bottles, and they're not cheap!
To replace the two nitrate bottles will cost me about £14. Wastage and the subsequent cost of replacing said wastage irks me somewhat.
The thing that bugs me is that we all get to this stage where we no longer need to test, but we have to have the kit on hand, just in case.
The bottles expire and you've hardly used any of the liquid, but because of the "just in case" factor we have to replace those bottles, and they're not cheap!
To replace the two nitrate bottles will cost me about £14. Wastage and the subsequent cost of replacing said wastage irks me somewhat.
What is a good nitrate level? Or what are you guys nitrate levels usually at? Cause holy **** is mine dark red ???
Experience member told me it’s fine for a predatory tank but I’m unsure. He said it isn’t really something I should be extremely worried about, I should care more about nitrites, ammonia and pH, which my parameters are good at. He told me nitrates are hard to keep Low unless you have a heavily planted tank, or keep small fishes mostly.
Experience member told me it’s fine for a predatory tank but I’m unsure. He said it isn’t really something I should be extremely worried about, I should care more about nitrites, ammonia and pH, which my parameters are good at. He told me nitrates are hard to keep Low unless you have a heavily planted tank, or keep small fishes mostly.
You can basically forget about ammonia and nitrite in a cycled tank, they will be zero. If not something is seriously amiss.
Nitrate on the other hand is always there, and rising continually. When it gets to a certain level then you do your water change to bring it down. That water change cycle is the basis of our hobby.
Now, what "level" are we talking about? This is a bone of contention between many hobbyists. I'd say your level is too high, very high in fact. Most of us like to try and keep around the "orange" area on the chart, myself included.
Nitrate on the other hand is always there, and rising continually. When it gets to a certain level then you do your water change to bring it down. That water change cycle is the basis of our hobby.
Now, what "level" are we talking about? This is a bone of contention between many hobbyists. I'd say your level is too high, very high in fact. Most of us like to try and keep around the "orange" area on the chart, myself included.
I have just checked, my level is about 80ppm. What would too high nitrates cause?
There are a lot of science based papers out there, some are contradictory. Nitrate, like I said, is a real hot potato. It's not as simple as saying nitrate does this and nitrate does that because there are a lot of other trace "nasties" building up too.
The vast majority of us don't understand nitrate, we just stick to that "orange" on the test chart. I am certainly in that bracket, and it seems to be serving me well thus far.
In short, if you put a water change schedule in place to keep you around the orange, I think you'll be ok.
Thank you! I’ll do a water change by tomorrow when my exams finish.
