Why are canister filters so popular despite their drawbacks? Rant.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
yet you refuse to do the same. Or thats how it reads

I'm sorry it reads that way.
combative and a know it all

I'm sorry it reads that way. I try to be polite (no sarcasm or power tripping), but I hate to hear it's not how you might see it.
How I comment is how I like to read comments. Though it might be hard to see if I'm not refusing to acknowledge other's views, because text is just that.
 
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Well my bad guys don't know how to tag a user so...
Honestly I agree with most folks views on this thread but I can't implement them all so I use what I have, a cannister with hob.
After I had bought everything needed for an upgrade I read all the "cannisters are Nitrate Factories" beware! Holy sh!+ Batman, what have I done??? Then I looked at my wife and the thought of asking for something else... Um no, not today! So I set it up and cleaned it weekly for a month. In that time nitrates went to about 15 in a weeks time. So I stretched it to monthly with the hob being cleaned every week at wc, same as before. Guess what, nitrates at about 15 on a weekly basis when I do wc.
So I agree all filtration can be nitrate factories but to claim cannisters are is a lil silly imo. Its the lazy fish keepers fault not the dang filtration
 
"Not correcting any opinions"? Okay...

Let's get real. Any filter is a "nitrate factory" since the biomedia encourages the breakdown of wastes into nitrates. As the nitrates accumulate, they must be removed by water changes. The faster they accumulate, the more frequent and larger the water changes must be.

Obviously, the more waste matter we can remove quickly and easily...before it has been in the tank long enough to be acted upon by bacteria...the less will eventually be converted to nitrate. In other words, the more often the mechanical filtration media is cleaned or changed...the more waste will be removed rather than turned into nitrate...so, naturally, a filter that is easy to clean is preferable. The more difficult it is to clean a filter, the less often it will be done; basic human nature. So, calling a canister a nitrate factory is simply admitting that you don't, won't or can't clean it as often as would be ideal, or as would be the case with another style of filter.

I like to clean the initial stage of my mechanical filter daily when possible; so I set up my filter to allow me to do that easily. There is no way in hell that I would attempt to clean a canister that often; so...IMHO only...that simple fact alone makes the relatively-difficult-to-clean canister inherently inferior to my sump, i.e. because my weak-willed human laziness doesn't lend itself to keeping the canister as clean as the sump.

As Wideglide04 Wideglide04 stated: don't like it? Don't use it! Simple. :)
One day I'll have a sump and trash all those can users lol. Jkn Jon but really if I could I would certainly give one a go. I use a huge tote to break my can down, open the window beside fish tank and hook up my python and start wc. I'm done with the can before the water has refilled. So for me its easy enuff.
I certainly dont have the volume of water you do and can see the problems you would face using cans.
 
It's not that I have so much water...it's more that I have so little energy and initiative...:)
 
The "nitrate factory" term is an old, and very common phrase. The place where the majority of your gunk collects will turn into a nitrate factory, if left unchecked, and that place is your mechanical filtration.

Change out your mechanical filtration regularly and the "nitrate factory" phrase then becomes obsolete. Yes you will still get a build up of nitrate, but it will be a lot more gradual than on a system where the filters are just left for ages.

I believe that there are automated systems available nowadays where the mechanical media is on some kind of a roller and a small motor feeds the media through the outlet, thus taking collected gunk straight out of the equation.

But then that other old saying kicks in (KISS : keep it simple stupid). A mechanical device to aid with mechanical filtration is a potential problem/accident waiting to happen imo.

Especially when you can easily change out/rinse your mech filters very regularly by hand, and achieve virtually the same goal.
 
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Hi All,
Very respectfully, there is a lot of very valuable information discussed in this thread, but there is also mis-information, even if offered with the best of intentions. Yes, I stopped responding after a rebuttal (post #26) to my post (#25) in this thread. Life went on with other things demanding more of my attention. I will try to be as succinct as I can in my response below and I will not be argumentative, just try to state my points, which I believe are well founded...

Below a brief review of what I said about how I run my canisters, which are in each case one of 3 separate large filters in each of my 6-foot tanks. I will also add a couple of things I omitted before:
1) I run pre-filters in all filters, which are cleaned weekly; 2) the 2 large HOB's in each tank are serviced fully every week (pre-filters and all media); 3) the canisters' media is serviced 4 times per year, sometimes more, up to 6 times; 4) I do regular water changes (over 70% weekly); 5) I turn all filters off during feeding, every time I feed. 6) I do not overfeed (intently try not to), and feed only 4 days per week; 7) My tanks are fairly heavily planted.
Using the methods above, virtually no food and also virtually no poop (or very little) goes into filters (any of either remains on top of the sand substratum in the tank, to be vacuumed weekly).
------
"With all due respect, I think you may have misunderstood the meaning of canisters being NO3 factories."
I don't believe that is so. If little to no food or poop goes into filters, there is minimal accumulation of either in filters, and in any case, that is not the main source of ammonia and thus of nitrate.

Perhaps the main issue has to do with the means of Nitrogenous excretion in fish. With the exception of some fish, namely elasmobranchs (yes, including rays), coelacanths (nobody keeps any) and very few other teleosts, THE GREAT MAJORITY (UP TO OVER 90%) OF AMMONIA EXCRETED BY FISH OCCURS AT THE GILLS. Not from the digestive system (or liver, or kidneys), so not much contained in fish poop. In fact, FISH POOP IS NOT THE MAIN PROBLEM, in reference to ammonia and thus nitrate accumulation. Instead, the main source of nitrate is ammonia excreted by fish, which is dissolved in water (INVISIBLE LIQUID) is excreted by the gills. I am not saying fish poop is healthy, but it is not unhealthy for the reasons implied (main source of nitrate, which is not). That is why excess of it needs to be removed.

If one thinks of the aquarium as a system (comprised of the water, the tank, the substratum, the filter and media, and the fish and plants), dissolved nitrate (DISSOLVED IN THE FLUID MEDIUM) cannot be much more abundant in one part or another, unless that part is not exchanging much with the rest. One could say that anoxic under substratum places could be somewhat out of the that exchange, but that is another story, and not of relevance for the canister argument. A working and CLEAN canister which is pumping water in and out CANNOT contain water that has much more or less nitrate that the rest of the system. It could only if is is not taking water in and out all the time, or if indeed it is really dirty. But even if it is real dirty (not mines), nitrate is not a solid, and neither are its precursors, ammonia and nitrite. Also if everything is working properly and the canister is fairly clean, then the interior of the canister cannot become much different in terms of oxygen content that the rest of the system. Thus, it is not true that the canister by necessity creates anoxic conditions that may hamper the work of bacteria responsible of processing nitrogenous compounds in the system. So again, sorry but not.
-------
Regarding the last argument, related to the picture of clean versus dirty media in my canister (the picture I attached):
"Finally, with regards to the picture, the filters are still very dirty even if it's not solids (since as mentioned, a lot gets past the pre-filter). It's easy to see why, when compared to a clean sponge."... followed by pictures of BRAND NEW, UNUSED sponges.

This is now bordering on silliness. Any experienced aquarist (I am sure the poster included) knows well that sponges change color ('suffer discoloration') over time, from brand new to some months/years of use. If one squeezes further the clean sponges I showed, no further discoloration of water (i.e., release of particles, that is solids) can be observed no matter how much more one squeezes. Even if the sponge looks tan/light brown it is clean as far as nitrate matters: Nitrate is NOT A SOLID; it is dissolved in the water. If you test for nitrate in water where you have squeezed well (multiple times) a clean sponge, and compare that with clean water, there will not be much of a difference, or any. So comparing the color of a 4 year old but clean sponge with one that has never been used does not contribute to the notions being discussed in this thread.
------
I want to end by saying that I don't post this because I want to win an argument or because I want to show that I am better (or worse) than anyone. I am not. I only do it because I see that some arguments offered are inconsistent with facts of aquatic life and it is important to have a better understanding of processes so we can apply them in our aquarium systems. People can take or leave it. I do the same. I have the highest respect for this site and all participants and would like to be be treated similarly. I am not implying that I feel I was treated discourteously because I don't, and I have fairly thick skin anyway. I did want to elaborate on my argument, and respectfully disagree with things I could not agree on. However, I don't want to continue (much) debating this issue, but I may look here and there for additional input and for kicks.

A useful lecture review of nitrogenous excretion by fish is in the link below. There are many other more academic publications (primary literature) looking in much further detail at particular aspects of nitrogenous excretion in fish, or for particular fish groups, but the review below does a good job of reviewing/synthesizing basic aspects which is what is most useful here. http://www.yorku.ca/spk/fishbiol09/FB09lecture11.pdf (I believe one needs to copy/paste the link).

A final note similar to what I originally said: IMHO HOB's, canisters, sumps, sponge filters are not intrinsically better or worse than each other. Each one has its place, advantages, disadvantages, capabilities and limitations. And then, there is what you do with it, what kind of aquarium one runs and everything else. Apples to grapes, to oranges, to blueberries and everything beyond and in between.
 
Hi All,
Very respectfully, there is a lot of very valuable information discussed in this thread, but there is also mis-information, even if offered with the best of intentions. Yes, I stopped responding after a rebuttal (post #26) to my post (#25) in this thread. Life went on with other things demanding more of my attention. I will try to be as succinct as I can in my response below and I will not be argumentative, just try to state my points, which I believe are well founded...

Below a brief review of what I said about how I run my canisters, which are in each case one of 3 separate large filters in each of my 6-foot tanks. I will also add a couple of things I omitted before:
1) I run pre-filters in all filters, which are cleaned weekly; 2) the 2 large HOB's in each tank are serviced fully every week (pre-filters and all media); 3) the canisters' media is serviced 4 times per year, sometimes more, up to 6 times; 4) I do regular water changes (over 70% weekly); 5) I turn all filters off during feeding, every time I feed. 6) I do not overfeed (intently try not to), and feed only 4 days per week; 7) My tanks are fairly heavily planted.
Using the methods above, virtually no food and also virtually no poop (or very little) goes into filters (any of either remains on top of the sand substratum in the tank, to be vacuumed weekly).
------
"With all due respect, I think you may have misunderstood the meaning of canisters being NO3 factories."
I don't believe that is so. If little to no food or poop goes into filters, there is minimal accumulation of either in filters, and in any case, that is not the main source of ammonia and thus of nitrate.

Perhaps the main issue has to do with the means of Nitrogenous excretion in fish. With the exception of some fish, namely elasmobranchs (yes, including rays), coelacanths (nobody keeps any) and very few other teleosts, THE GREAT MAJORITY (UP TO OVER 90%) OF AMMONIA EXCRETED BY FISH OCCURS AT THE GILLS. Not from the digestive system (or liver, or kidneys), so not much contained in fish poop. In fact, FISH POOP IS NOT THE MAIN PROBLEM, in reference to ammonia and thus nitrate accumulation. Instead, the main source of nitrate is ammonia excreted by fish, which is dissolved in water (INVISIBLE LIQUID) is excreted by the gills. I am not saying fish poop is healthy, but it is not unhealthy for the reasons implied (main source of nitrate, which is not). That is why excess of it needs to be removed.

If one thinks of the aquarium as a system (comprised of the water, the tank, the substratum, the filter and media, and the fish and plants), dissolved nitrate (DISSOLVED IN THE FLUID MEDIUM) cannot be much more abundant in one part or another, unless that part is not exchanging much with the rest. One could say that anoxic under substratum places could be somewhat out of the that exchange, but that is another story, and not of relevance for the canister argument. A working and CLEAN canister which is pumping water in and out CANNOT contain water that has much more or less nitrate that the rest of the system. It could only if is is not taking water in and out all the time, or if indeed it is really dirty. But even if it is real dirty (not mines), nitrate is not a solid, and neither are its precursors, ammonia and nitrite. Also if everything is working properly and the canister is fairly clean, then the interior of the canister cannot become much different in terms of oxygen content that the rest of the system. Thus, it is not true that the canister by necessity creates anoxic conditions that may hamper the work of bacteria responsible of processing nitrogenous compounds in the system. So again, sorry but not.
-------
Regarding the last argument, related to the picture of clean versus dirty media in my canister (the picture I attached):
"Finally, with regards to the picture, the filters are still very dirty even if it's not solids (since as mentioned, a lot gets past the pre-filter). It's easy to see why, when compared to a clean sponge."... followed by pictures of BRAND NEW, UNUSED sponges.

This is now bordering on silliness. Any experienced aquarist (I am sure the poster included) knows well that sponges change color ('suffer discoloration') over time, from brand new to some months/years of use. If one squeezes further the clean sponges I showed, no further discoloration of water (i.e., release of particles, that is solids) can be observed no matter how much more one squeezes. Even if the sponge looks tan/light brown it is clean as far as nitrate matters: Nitrate is NOT A SOLID; it is dissolved in the water. If you test for nitrate in water where you have squeezed well (multiple times) a clean sponge, and compare that with clean water, there will not be much of a difference, or any. So comparing the color of a 4 year old but clean sponge with one that has never been used does not contribute to the notions being discussed in this thread.
------
I want to end by saying that I don't post this because I want to win an argument or because I want to show that I am better (or worse) than anyone. I am not. I only do it because I see that some arguments offered are inconsistent with facts of aquatic life and it is important to have a better understanding of processes so we can apply them in our aquarium systems. People can take or leave it. I do the same. I have the highest respect for this site and all participants and would like to be be treated similarly. I am not implying that I feel I was treated discourteously because I don't, and I have fairly thick skin anyway. I did want to elaborate on my argument, and respectfully disagree with things I could not agree on. However, I don't want to continue (much) debating this issue, but I may look here and there for additional input and for kicks.

A useful lecture review of nitrogenous excretion by fish is in the link below. There are many other more academic publications (primary literature) looking in much further detail at particular aspects of nitrogenous excretion in fish, or for particular fish groups, but the review below does a good job of reviewing/synthesizing basic aspects which is what is most useful here. http://www.yorku.ca/spk/fishbiol09/FB09lecture11.pdf (I believe one needs to copy/paste the link).

A final note similar to what I originally said: IMHO HOB's, canisters, sumps, sponge filters are not intrinsically better or worse than each other. Each one has its place, advantages, disadvantages, capabilities and limitations. And then, there is what you do with it, what kind of aquarium one runs and everything else. Apples to grapes, to oranges, to blueberries and everything beyond and in between.

Terrific post! I have always wondered what percentage of the ammonia that appears in a tank (to be converted eventually to nitrate) originated in the gills versus the digestive system of fish. The fact that ammonia will still appear and require nitrification in our aquariums even during extended periods without feeding is proof that it is significant. I always just guessed/assumed that it would be more or less 50/50, so that link is an eye-opener.

If that 90% figure is accurate, then my near-obsession with cleaning of mechanical filtration takes on far less significance than I thought. OCD being what it is, I have no intention of changing or lessening my cleaning regimen, which naturally translates to no decrease in my contempt for canisters :)...but I will breathe a bit easier when the inevitable occasion arises when I can't clean my prefilters for a few weeks at a time. :)

My insistence that properly designed and set-up sumps and prefilters are far easier to maintain and clean than any other style of filter remains firm. HOB's are in second place, by a fairly slim margin...and canisters are still dead last. But it would appear that this is less important with respect to water quality than I originally believed. Good to know, if I can only learn to be happy with it...

And, yes, the fact that old mechanical sponges are brown did indeed seem too silly to even comment on...
 
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Both sumps and canisters clearly work, so I think let's start there lol. Take your pick.

I think sumps without question are the no brainer, more effective/efficient option. Ease of maintenance, customizable filtration capacity/power, steady tank water level and can hide unsightly gear. But the #1 reason they aren't the top option for the masses is because of the DIY factor. If you aren't handy or don't know much about plumbing, you aren't going to be comfortable embarking on that journey. Obviously with a bit of digging and learning it can be easily done, but I think most people anticipate greater risks in doing so. Still, this isn't a knock on sumps and I think really ideal in many ways and I also don't think there's inherently greater risks, just mentioning because I'm pretty sure that's the main reason most opt for canisters instead.

That said, canisters work just fine and any suggestion otherwise is just flat out silly lol. I'm a long time discus keeper, have raised plenty juvies to full sized. Barebottom and not. Filling it properly and cleaning it once a month is literally all it takes (and you can go months with the right filter/setup if that floats your boat). Personally I love having two on each tank, one more of a bacteria hub and another as a polisher that I clean a bit more frequently. Also, out of all the cansiters I've had (20 maybe?) I've only had one leak, and that was the one time I bought a cheaper brand.. ever since it's been Eheim and Fluval only with no problems whatsoever.

HOBs are also great, but there just isn't much capacity available even on the biggest units. And yet and still I love my AC110. Easy to service, easy to move and reliable as can be.

All in all, these are all just options, and they all work great. Take your pick. Outside of maintenance differences, it really just doesn't matter much.
 
F FJB .
Your one of the more knowledgeable members here. I'm posting to say thank you. Offer encouragement and hope you don't take any conflicts or differences of opinion to heart.

Yes lots of misinformation occurs here. Lots of people reposting online information without real experience or some simply "advice shopping" until they hear what they want.

Many knowledgeable members have left or simply don't post anymore. It's easy to see why

Happy fish keeping !
 
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Thanks. I know a couple of things about about a couple of subjects. My ignorance of other topics (or lack of experience keeping many groups of fish) are vast. But I can use basic concepts and apply them.
 
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