Dude sold me the wrong thing

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The Fluval UVC clarifier is for use with canister filters that use 5/8" (16mm) diameter hose so it won't work with the Fluval FX series filters UNLESS you split the output hose by using adapters and different hoses which means you'll have 2 outputs in the aquarium instead of 1 output.

I'd return it unless you are handy at DIY plumbing or buy another filter of the appropriate hose diameters.
 
The Fluval UVC clarifier is for use with canister filters that use 5/8" (16mm) diameter hose so it won't work with the Fluval FX series filters UNLESS you split the output hose by using adapters and different hoses which means you'll have 2 outputs in the aquarium instead of 1 output.

I'd return it unless you are handy at DIY plumbing or buy another filter of the appropriate hose diameters.
Thanks.
 
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The Fluval UVC clarifier is for use with canister filters that use 5/8" (16mm) diameter hose so it won't work with the Fluval FX series filters UNLESS you split the output hose by using adapters and different hoses which means you'll have 2 outputs in the aquarium instead of 1 output.

I'd return it unless you are handy at DIY plumbing or buy another filter of the appropriate hose diameters.

aye… smart! Didn’t think to split it…Keep the flow rate and add another output is a win win lol…
 
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The hardware store is an aquarists best friend
There are plenty of solutions to this problem to be found at the hardware store,
in the plumbing dept, the lawn care area, etc etc.
Tubes and pipes can be rigged together with hose clamps, hose barbs, and reducers.
The reason I posted the above pic.
You can see how many contortions I went thru to attach the above inline heater to my system.
 
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As Backfromthedead just suggested
One of the things you may want to consider (depending on what the purpose of adding UV is aimed at).
The normal flow of a filter may be too much (too fast i.e to short a detention time) to make the UV viable, so splitting the line might be the best option and idea,
Splitting the line could allow for slow flow thru the UV (using a valve), and stronger normal flow thru the other side of the split (normal rate of filtration).
Although less detention time isn't as vital for simple removal of planktonic algae, if....you are aiming at parasites like protozoa, bacteria, or others, to actually be effective at scrambling those critters organelles, a longer detention time may be required.

Take for example Ick, or some other protozoa
Ick has a fairly thick and impermeable cell wall, so a few seconds floating past a UV light, is basically useless and ineffective, whereas with a low flow (a trickle) passing by the UV bulb where a few minutes detention time, can actually do some damage.
 
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One of the things you may want to consider (depending on what the UV is aimed at).
The normal flow of a filter may be too much (too fast i.e to short a detention time) to make the UV viable, so splitting the line might be the best option and idea,
Splitting the line could allow for slow flow thru the UV (using a valve), and stronger normal flow thru the other side of the split (normal rate of filtration).
Although less detention time isn't as vital for simple removal of planktonic algae, if....you are aiming at parasites like protozoa, bacteria, or others, to actually be effective at scrambling those critters organelles, a longer detention time may be required.
If they are selling the exact thing (uv filter for fax filters with the same flow rate) then I will do that. If I can’t get one for a while online, I can try and split the tubes.
 
If the UV filter is for algae (green water), that's simply a band-aid fix for the problem, and not really dealing with the root cause. Dealing with the root cause is generally simpler and cheaper in the long run.
 
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If the UV filter is for algae (green water), that's simply a band-aid fix for the problem, and not really dealing with the root cause. Dealing with the root cause is generally simpler and cheaper in the long run.
Agree
I attended many UV seminars while working at a water purification plant, and found in many cases, the efficacy of UV as a parasitic control, is often highly over rated, so always take what is claimed by manufacturers with a grain of salt.
I would often use UV in the microbiology lab to sterilize glass ware, and had indicator tabs put in with the glassware, that turned certain colors when actual sterilization was considered complete for certain types of macrobiotic contaminantion (be it bacterial, or protozoal).
That glass ware often had to sit under a "number" of strong 40 watt UV bulbs (stationary) for over 3 minutes.
 
One of the misconceptions about UV and algae, is that it affects non-planktonic species.
UV will kill floating spores, and green water, but sessile stuff that grows on decor, substrate, or glass is really not phased at all.
Unless the algae flows/passes thru the UV unit, UV is of little use,
 
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