Building stands for multiple tanks???

[Hybridfish7]

Yep, now that we are up to the Mark 47 or Mark 48 version this thing seems to be looking pretty solid.

I think I may have mentioned it earlier, and I don't think anyone else has, possibly because nobody else thinks it is worth doing, but...adding a couple of diagonal braces at the back would be a fast, cheap and easy way to add a great deal of strength to this design, specifically a resistance to "folding up" or doing an imitation of an accordion if lateral forces are applied. A simple piece of 2x4, attached at a 45-degree on the back at each end between the top and middle horizontals, would be a must-do for me. I'd be inclined to add another one at each end, running diagonally from front to back, but if the assembly is attached to the wall for stability that makes the end pieces somewhat dispensable.

Would you think an A or an X would be better?

 

[jjohnwm]

Would you think an A or an X would be better?

Not really sure what you mean by that. Neither an A nor an X, just two separate pieces, one at each end, running diagonally from the top to the middle horizontals. They would not need to extend all the way to the middle, would never need to contact each other at all.

You have five vertical columns, let's number them one to five. One diagonal from the top of #1 to the middle of #2; another from the top of #5 to the middle of #4. Or reverse the tops and middles, doesn't matter.

 

[Hybridfish7]

Not really sure what you mean by that. Neither an A nor an X, just two separate pieces, one at each end, running diagonally from the top to the middle horizontals. They would not need to extend all the way to the middle, would never need to contact each other at all.

You have five vertical columns, let's number them one to five. One diagonal from the top of #1 to the middle of #2; another from the top of #5 to the middle of #4. Or reverse the tops and middles, doesn't matter.

Ohh now I get what you mean. I thought you meant something like

or

 

[jjohnwm]

The configuration in the first drawing would take up a lot of space/depth due to the pieces crossing. The one shown in the other would absolutely work, but needs a lot more wood than necessary. Both prevent the tanks on the bottom from extending out past the back; I thought the bottom tanks placed "on end" were intended to project forward and backward a wee bit beyond the stand?

 

[Hybridfish7]

The configuration in the first drawing would take up a lot of space/depth due to the pieces crossing. The one shown in the other would absolutely work, but needs a lot more wood than necessary. Both prevent the tanks on the bottom from extending out past the back; I thought the bottom tanks placed "on end" were intended to project forward and backward a wee bit beyond the stand?

The bottom tanks will stick out a bit forward, but the bottom shelf itself is made a bit longer to account for that. All the tanks will sit flush (more or less) with their designated platforms.
Would the diagonals require cutting the wood at angles?
Also, I am thinking of going with the whole "doubled up 2x4 with 2x2 vertical supports" thing, as this requires the least amount of wood that I need to buy. I think.

 

[jjohnwm]

No need to cut angles unless you want to.

I don't see the benefit of 2x2 for anything, but there's plenty of different methods to skin this particular cat.

 

[Hybridfish7]

I figured it would cut costs down a bit, especially since it's cutting a solid foot off the entire design. Like Disturbed.) was saying, if they're able to hold the weight of the 60s on top (or in his case, a 120 and 75s), I think it should be fine, especially with 10 of them. Do you mean something like this with the diagonals?

Also, how would I go about attaching them to the stand? Any anecdotal examples? Bear in mind the top of this thing will also be drilled into the wall. Oh yeah, that's the other thing, how many points should I drill into the wall, and if I were to drill some points along the bottom, how high off the ground should I drill?

 

[Disturbed.)]

Some people aren't keen on drilling into a basement floor but that's the most stable, easiest and usually the cheapest way to do the bottom. One anchor on each corner should be plenty since gravity is doing most of that work for you.
If you are going into the wall top and bottom you should look to anchor as low as you can at each leg and at least that many at the top. Expanding anchors are meant to hold loads in shear "imagin one sticking out of a wall with weight pulling straight down." They aren't really strong with a load pulling out against the threads "imagin one sticking out of the ceiling with a weight hanging."

Just be sure to drill the proper depth, vacuum out the dust then squirt a little caulk in the hole before setting the anchors. That way you arent giving water a way to seep into your basement. Mounting a top and bottom 2x4 to the wall then attaching your rack to that makes things easier.
If it's not going into a concrete wall every other stud should be fine.

 

[cvar]

Are the tanks resting on the green horizontal joists? Or are they sitting on the red beams? I can't tell. Whatever is actually holding up the weight of the tanks is what really needs a vertical wood column (ie, post) to directly support it.

This design is very close, but it makes me wonder. It holds tons of weight. I see the top long red beams have yellow vertical 2x posts directly underneath them, which is good. But the middle tier red beams seem to be missing those supporting posts beneath them. Or am I missing something? Posts must do the lifting. The beams only transfer weight to the posts. Long span beams will flex, which is scary. Hence building codes will limit the span of beams. 12 feet is super long. If the weight actually rests on the red beams, not on the green "joists", then you'd need vertical columns (eg, notched 4x4 posts) to hold up the beams, not the green joists. That's the red flag. So is the lack of diagonal bracing, to prevent "racking" collapse. Just a few diagonal 2x4s is enough. Also, I'd suggest horizontal 2x4s near the top to firmly anchor it to a solid wall (or to ceiling joists), so it doesn't topple over onto someone.

We can compare this to building a small non-ledger deck (they're very similar). Someone stated that none of the weight should be borne by fasteners, only by upright wood columns. Yes! Fasteners are there only to hold the structure together rigidly, not to support the weight of anything. Fasteners fail catastrophically. Solid columns/posts do not. So house decks require notched posts (not bolts) to hold up the load-carrying members (ie, beams or joists), same as this fish rack. A 12-foot 2x4 beam is gonna be scary. You can sister them, or use 4x4 beams.

It's gonna look epic when it's done. I look fwd to seeing all your happy fishes in their spiffy new homes.

 

[Hybridfish7]

Are the tanks resting on the green horizontal joists? Or are they sitting on the red beams? I can't tell. Whatever is actually holding up the weight of the tanks is what really needs a vertical wood column (ie, post) to directly support it.

This design is very close, but it makes me wonder. It holds tons of weight. I see the top long red beams have yellow vertical 2x posts directly underneath them, which is good. But the middle tier red beams seem to be missing those supporting posts beneath them. Or am I missing something? Posts must do the lifting. The beams only transfer weight to the posts. Long span beams will flex, which is scary. Hence building codes will limit the span of beams. 12 feet is super long. If the weight actually rests on the red beams, not on the green "joists", then you'd need vertical columns (eg, notched 4x4 posts) to hold up the beams, not the green joists. That's the red flag. So is the lack of diagonal bracing, to prevent "racking" collapse. Just a few diagonal 2x4s is enough. Also, I'd suggest horizontal 2x4s near the top to firmly anchor it to a solid wall (or to ceiling joists), so it doesn't topple over onto someone.

We can compare this to building a small non-ledger deck (they're very similar). Someone stated that none of the weight should be borne by fasteners, only by upright wood columns. Yes! Fasteners are there only to hold the structure together rigidly, not to support the weight of anything. Fasteners fail catastrophically. Solid columns/posts do not. So house decks require notched posts (not bolts) to hold up the load-carrying members (ie, beams or joists), same as this fish rack. A 12-foot 2x4 beam is gonna be scary. You can sister them, or use 4x4 beams.

It's gonna look epic when it's done. I look fwd to seeing all your happy fishes in their spiffy new homes.

You might be looking at some of the earlier posts. Look at the updated design