Brass spigots on water storage tank?!? Should I

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M3AN ONE

Dovii
MFK Member
Feb 29, 2012
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Long Island
Looking to pick this water tank up because it has the dimensions of a fridge just taller, easy to fit through doors ect. Is it a issue do use the brass spigots or should I swap them out? Any suggestions of 260-300 gallon tanks that others have had success with I dont love that its not clear or has a sight very easy to accidentally over flow

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Considering that household plumbing is/was copper and that household sink/tub/shower/exterior spigots are brass you should be safe but I am only an amateur diy plumber. I have never portrayed a plumber nor a doctor on TV either. :naughty:
 
I love the tank! 260g!!
I use 2 blue plastic, ex-apple juice concentrate 55g drums, connected in tandem, to allow my water changes. One fill of that duo allows me a ~70-80% change on each of my 125g tanks, or in two 75g tanks.
I got them for free, but they are readily available on the cheap. Of course, no spigots so I use a pump.
How much do they want for that bad boy?
 
I love the tank! 260g!!
I use 2 blue plastic, ex-apple juice concentrate 55g drums, connected in tandem, to allow my water changes. One fill of that duo allows me a ~70-80% change on each of my 125g tanks, or in two 75g tanks.
I got them for free, but they are readily available on the cheap. Of course, no spigots so I use a pump.
How much do they want for that bad boy?

$1125 including shipping. Shipping and tax is over half the price. This will let me do a 30 percent water hang on my 700 gallon system and a complete water change on my 240 (not that I recommend it) I have 4 of those drums and want to maximize the limited space I have.
 
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It doesn't apply all that much to your specific application but there is an unusual aspect to that unit. The ad touts the unit as "food-grade" and BPA free. Brass though is an alloy and there are a ton of different recipes for it... several commonly include lead.
 
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Unless your water is on the acidic side, I wouldn't worry about it. I've mixed brass fittings and water changes for decades with no apparent issues, with tap water values in the pH 8.0 range.
 
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May be a dumb question, but curious what you guys are using these large barrels/tanks for on larger sized tanks? Wouldn’t you just use a Python or a pump to both drain and fill??
 
May be a dumb question, but curious what you guys are using these large barrels/tanks for on larger sized tanks? Wouldn’t you just use a Python or a pump to both drain and fill??

Water changes especially if you are using some sort of water purification system that removes chlorine and has carbon int it. They are slow fills so you fill up the storage tank then pump the water from the storage tank into your display. if the water from your source is too cold let it sit and it becomes room temp if still not enough you can put a heater and air stone or something that generates current and add to your main later. This stops you from having to use thermostat to mix to the temp of the tank consuming oil too.
 
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Water changes especially if you are using some sort of water purification system that removes chlorine and has carbon int it. They are slow fills so you fill up the storage tank then pump the water from the storage tank into your display. if the water from your source is too cold let it sit and it becomes room temp if still not enough you can put a heater and air stone or something that generates current and add to your main later. This stops you from having to use thermostat to mix to the temp of the tank consuming oil too.
Interesting, I just figured a hose/pump is more of what I see on videos and such. On my 75 I empty about 50-80%, toss in Prime, run a hose from the sink at the correct temp to fill.

I see though, the new water is basically 100% tank ready before going in you’re saying vs. “mixing” in the tank.
 
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