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The most efficient way to utilise this filter in it's standard formation is to fill all trays with matrix / pond matrix media ! I then use a blue pad on top of that media in the top tray. You can also add another above the media in top of the second tray if you wish. The second blue pad...

You have a 530, and are prepared to spend $20 on bio for it. (shakes head) Seriously, thats a good size tank, and most likely your going to have some nice big fish in there ! I would be inclined to get the most efficient bio media $ wise I could use for my setup. There are plenty of threads on...

3 fx5s (Overkill) on a 220 and sick of microbubbles ? 1. setup your fx5's properly and microbubbles won't happen unless your filter is clogged up and time to clean ! 2. Don't over stock your tank and try to compensate with filtration ! 3. Thinking about going to an eheim is taking a step...

This is good advice. On larger tanks I would reccomend using a large canister as a backup to your primary sump.

100 Micron poly sheeting is a good balanced pre filter material before your bio material.

What I have seen with slimy coating like you have described, is tank parameters still establishing themselves. Double check ammonia and nitrite readings. What brand dechlorinator are you using ? Are you using enough, because I found on average 50% of the time, more dechlor is needed than...

At least you know the answer now.

Sorry to say, but a 0.2 reading of ammonia is not ok on an established tank ! Stop all the chemicals, and do a proper water analysis. To have an ammonia shows you have something wrong thats not right. With the cloudy water you described and positive ammonia reading, you may have some how...

Reduce the flow of the pump, problem solved.

How long has the tank been running for ? What size tank ? What type of filtration? Stocking density of the tank? Type of bio filtration?

Sometimes I see some really genuine posts from people that require help, and sometimes I see some silly posts. This is one of the latter ! :headshake

This thread is about arowana. Arowanas do not like high nitrates ! It's true a lot of of fish can tolerate 40ppm nitrates. I suggest you go ahead and use water that has 40ppm as change water, and see what level of nitrates you have when it comes to next water change !!! I bet for the life...

The combination of fish, size tank, and the amount of fish you wish to have I would defiantely NOT reccomend. Plants and rays in the same tank you can forget it. Rays like sand to burrow in. Dats can be territorial in lower sectons of the water where the rays are and can cause fighting issues ...

If this is the case with high nitrates from the well water, then unfortunately your going to have to find another source of water that normally has no nitrates to use for water changes ! Anything above 20ppm is unaceptable for long term use as change water if you value your fishes health.

I have had 7 fx5's running with the first 3 runnning over 5 years now and never had an issue. Best canister filter I have ever used in over 20 years of fishkeeping. They just work and no fuss. Some people complain about microbubbles and having premature maintenance proceedures. If set up...

The surface agitation created from just 1 fx5 outlet pointing towards the surface can provide enough oxygenation to keep a 600 gallon tank with normal stocking density healthy at any temp the fish can live in.

Boiling the driftwood to try and remove as much tannin as possible helps. Regular water changes help. Chemical removal of the the tannins using such products as purigen, bio chemzorb etc, helps Diatom filtration helps. All depends on how much time and effort you want to put into...

Looks like you need more water changes, and better management of the substrate. What are your nitrate levels before and after water change ? I would start by doing at leas twice the amount of water changes a week that your currently doing and then remove the substrate.

Not entirely correct. The outer sponges will take care of bulk waste, but over time that bulk waste breaks down and passes through the sponges. The smaller waste particles now recirculate around your tank and also begin to coat your bio media, reducing it's efficiency. If your your using fine...

This is the the most logical response in this thread. Chillers and ice bottles are not needed for 99% of freshwater tropical fish when tank temps get above the norm. Having a good oxygen source is better option.