110 gallon, My First Planted Tank ~ Ideas For Improvement?

[LS2012]

Hybridherp, thanks for the info, just sent you a pm back. Lots of info to digest I'm sure I will have questions once I can read everything more thoroughly.
Laurie

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[xxUnRaTeDxxRkOxx]

To HybridHerp, the old Odyssea fixtures are the ones that had overheating issues, and poor quality reflectors; The newer Odyssea fixtures don't have these problems as they've upgraded the reflectors, and switched suppliers for the fans used for cooling the new fixtures. My Odyssea can be ran all day, and all night with all of the bulbs on the entire time, and has never overheated nor been too hot to the touch.

As with EVERY aquatic light fixture manufacturer they have all experienced issues over time, and work to correct the issues that arise. There's no such thing as a perfect fixture because everyone's tank is different, from the substrates we choose to use, different equipment used for our tanks, all the way down to perfecting our own unique dosing regime with fertilizers.

Aquarium lighting is more based on PAR data, and LUX; Because it seems he wants to stay in the low tech range for his aquarium, I find no reason to steer away from using T8 lighting. The bulbs are plenty, and really cost effective which helps the wallet stay full... The fact is I've seen some of the best planted tanks ever using the T8 diamond plate fixtures, so if he's wanting to "upgrade" without literally upgrading to a medium or high tech system the diamond plate work lights are the perfect fit.

The diamond plate work lighting fixture will give him a better reflector without actually having to upgrade to T5, T5HO, LED, or Metal Halide. It'll give him better lighting without having to add extra fixtures, and extra bulbs.

 

[HybridHerp]

To HybridHerp, the old Odyssea fixtures are the ones that had overheating issues, and poor quality reflectors; The newer Odyssea fixtures don't have these problems as they've upgraded the reflectors, and switched suppliers for the fans used for cooling the new fixtures. My Odyssea can be ran all day, and all night with all of the bulbs on the entire time, and has never overheated nor been too hot to the touch.

As with EVERY aquatic light fixture manufacturer they have all experienced issues over time, and work to correct the issues that arise. There's no such thing as a perfect fixture because everyone's tank is different, from the substrates we choose to use, different equipment used for our tanks, all the way down to perfecting our own unique dosing regime with fertilizers.

Aquarium lighting is more based on PAR data, and LUX; Because it seems he wants to stay in the low tech range for his aquarium, I find no reason to steer away from using T8 lighting. The bulbs are plenty, and really cost effective which helps the wallet stay full... The fact is I've seen some of the best planted tanks ever using the T8 diamond plate fixtures, so if he's wanting to "upgrade" without literally upgrading to a medium or high tech system the diamond plate work lights are the perfect fit.

The diamond plate work lighting fixture will give him a better reflector without actually having to upgrade to T5, T5HO, LED, or Metal Halide. It'll give him better lighting without having to add extra fixtures, and extra bulbs.

The only issue though is that even on a 75 t8 bulbs are very low. She also said she wants to be medium light, which is still low tech. T8 just doesn't go through all that water well enough...when my 75 was low tech with t8's it still wasn't worthwhile. I do use t8's on my other 10 though and it's fine for medium light even since I run two different fixtures.

The odysseya fixtures are poor reflectors because of the shape of the reflector. They are not individual reflectors for each bulb iirc. Maybe they changed that but if they didn't then they are still poor reflectors.

But yah, there are multiple ways to do a thing, but truth be told you dot see too many serious planted tanks that are this tall...it's doable but it's harder.


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[xxUnRaTeDxxRkOxx]

I'll agree that it's doable, and that it is harder to achieve success with deep tanks. But it's proven that even in deep tanks lighting with quality reflectors does eliminate the fact that the tank is deep. Personally I won't do a planted setup if the tanks over 24" high because of how the height of the tank can affect the lighting. Personally I won't do anything height wise than a 120 gallon tall tank (48" x 24" x 24"), and won't do anything longer than 72" because it's harder to find lighting fixture longer than 72".

So I always try to plan ahead of any tank I'm setting up, first thing I look at is making sure I'll be able to find a lighting fixture that spans the exact size of the tank. For some reason, call me old fashion if you will, I avoid LED fixtures because most of the fixtures are made with tight beam LED's where as I try to find lighting that is able to fill the entire tank without any shady areas caused by the lighting. Then I'll get the tank, and start setting it up...

 

[HybridHerp]

I'll agree that it's doable, and that it is harder to achieve success with deep tanks. But it's proven that even in deep tanks lighting with quality reflectors does eliminate the fact that the tank is deep. Personally I won't do a planted setup if the tanks over 24" high because of how the height of the tank can affect the lighting. Personally I won't do anything height wise than a 120 gallon tall tank (48" x 24" x 24"), and won't do anything longer than 72" because it's harder to find lighting fixture longer than 72".

So I always try to plan ahead of any tank I'm setting up, first thing I look at is making sure I'll be able to find a lighting fixture that spans the exact size of the tank. For some reason, call me old fashion if you will, I avoid LED fixtures because most of the fixtures are made with tight beam LED's where as I try to find lighting that is able to fill the entire tank without any shady areas caused by the lighting. Then I'll get the tank, and start setting it up...

Yah, the only way to do LED on a tank as wide as this would be if you had two fixtures, the two I recommended in combination ring a very highly recommended combination that I've seen for myself in person that just really let's the color pops.

As a whole though LED will never phase out T5-Ho simply because of the lack of spread and the higher initial cost.

And yah, quality reflectors of course help but I've seen the PAR data for a lot of different things...tbh though I dot think there exists as of yet PAR data for most aquarium lighting...one of these days I intend on getting a PAR meter, there is someone I know who makes them and sells them at a relatively affordable price.


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[LS2012]

Lots more food for thought. Thanks Hybridherp and Mike.

I was able to buy the tank, stand and canopy from someone I know for $200. Too good to pass on since I was looking to upgrade from a 46g for my SA fish anyway. I would never buy a 28 high brand new. Especially since I don't have arms the length of an orangutan and tripped off the ladder while planting; thus tearing two ligaments. Ouch.

While planning the setup for my 4th tank, I figured the initial low cost would mean not feeling guilty about more fish, a 3d background, a great lighting system, and a planted tank for a more natural setting. I knew the height would cause difficulties, but I'm OK with that, in spite of not being able to walk for days.

The diamond plate fixture is interesting, but not aesthetically pleasing for my decor. Speaking of arms and decor, yes, I'm a she, not a he. That was my husband's forearm holding the light fixture. Mine is much, much smaller My apologies for any confusion.

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[LS2012]

As promised.... pics of my SA fish
Just cleaned up the inside, but forgot to clean the glass, Sorry


Removed damaged leaves and a few rocks ~ much more room on the bottom for my Geos. Maybe they'll stop spitting substrate on the rocks now


Rare daytime appearance of my L240 and one of my baby H. Temporalis


My male Bujurquina with one of my 6 juvie Geo red head Tapajos


My male Australoheros Oblongum more interested in being a big brother to the other H. Temporalis baby than his mate


My lone little myersi with the male Oblongum, still being followed by the baby H. I'm sure the Myersi doesn't miss his 5 other Myersi he used to live with in his last tank.


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[HybridHerp]

It will be interesting to see how this progresses. It's good all the fish are young too because that might help with plants.

And is that a chocolate cichlid? I'm rusty on my Latin with cichlids lol


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[LS2012]

Yes, the H. Temporalis are wc purple chocolate cichlids from Peru, and they'll be growing quite a bit. Hence the hesitation about Altums, given the adult size fins on those particular angels. I'm not intending this tank to be a grow out and want the residents to be able to remain here as adults.

And hopefully they'll be easier on the aquascaping ~ giving the plants a chance to root and grow.

 

[perok]

I have a 26" tall medium light planted tank. NO CO2.
6500K light about 1.5w per gallon
add Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorous. You need a multi-nutrient, (preferably something that includes your trace elements). You also should add an organic carbon, like excel.

Stick with Java Ferns, any of the Anubis varieties will grow great.
I have a large ruffled sword, (which is like an Amazon). You need to add root tabs every month or so.
I also have wysteria which shoots to the top quickly.

Don't be intimidated by the depth, just stick with low light plants, there are plenty out there.
Forget PH. That is pretty much a myth meant to sell product.
Remember NPK + macro/micro and carbon and you'll be fine.


and I also have about 8 cichlids, they don't bother any of those type of plants.........