125 FOWLR suggestions.
- Thread starter Experiment397
- Start date
Okay current stock list is
1 skeletor eel* (or snowflake if I can't find a skeletor)
1 harlequin tusk*
1 "large" angel* (blue girdled or annularis maybe)
1 dragon wrasse*
1 goldbar wrasse (still a maybe due to the price tag)
1 banana wrasse
1 red coris*
Possibly 1 green bird wrasse
1 fu Manchu lion fish*
1 miniatus grouper*
1 foxface*
1 falcula butterfly
Maybe a small Niger trigger and see how it does
I put a star by my favorites on the list so it's mainly them I want to know about working out. Im trying to get either a 55 or even a 75 gallon sump with a 10x+ turnover and a protein skimmer for a 200 gallon tank. Also I am planning on running some simple VHO t12 72" fixture with 1x 12000k and 1x 420nm actinic both are 160w bulbs. The sump will have a bio balls section, a refugium that will also be a quarantine tank and then I will probably have a mag drive pump to finish off the system. Any last thoughts?
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1 skeletor eel* (or snowflake if I can't find a skeletor)
1 harlequin tusk*
1 "large" angel* (blue girdled or annularis maybe)
1 dragon wrasse*
1 goldbar wrasse (still a maybe due to the price tag)
1 banana wrasse
1 red coris*
Possibly 1 green bird wrasse
1 fu Manchu lion fish*
1 miniatus grouper*
1 foxface*
1 falcula butterfly
Maybe a small Niger trigger and see how it does
I put a star by my favorites on the list so it's mainly them I want to know about working out. Im trying to get either a 55 or even a 75 gallon sump with a 10x+ turnover and a protein skimmer for a 200 gallon tank. Also I am planning on running some simple VHO t12 72" fixture with 1x 12000k and 1x 420nm actinic both are 160w bulbs. The sump will have a bio balls section, a refugium that will also be a quarantine tank and then I will probably have a mag drive pump to finish off the system. Any last thoughts?
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Limit the tank turnover through your sump to 3-5x the display volume. If you you need more circulation add powerheads. If you have too much flow through the sump your protein skimmer will be less effective
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I had heard that for salt the absolute minimum was 8 time turnover. My fresh tanks all have at least that and I'd still like more. So I figure a salt tank I'd want even more than a fresh tank. So I'm starting with 10 and possibly upgrading it to 12-15x. Any thoughts on the fish?
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I think a high turnover rate is only good if you can clean the water that goes through the sump (filter sock to clean the water if you use one, protein skimmer for organics etc) any more and you are moving water with no benefit.
You might also need to make a net for the top of the tank to stop the wrasse jumping out.
You might also need to make a net for the top of the tank to stop the wrasse jumping out.
The tank will be covered with glass lids and a fairly tall decorative canopy. My skimmer will have no issue with that turnover. I will be running a filter sock and have multiple baffles through the sump. There are members on here with the same skimmer I want with 1800+ gph and it does fine for them. So I'm really not that worried about my equipment anymore. At this point its just finding out if my fish selection is okay
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What stands out here to me is petty much the samething when you were gonna do a reef..................... RobD23 - member since 05 has 5 fish in 125 gal and it's a fun tank. You on the other hand are planning as many as 13 fish in the same tank w/ several of them needing lots of rock work and the dragon wrasse needing a deep sandbed. When you remove 1/3rd or more of the total volume of tank for LR + Sand your living space greatly decreases. A large sump will put more ppm on your side but won't change the room needed for that many fish to find a home. This leads to stress - stress being the #1 cause of fish disease. Trust me you don't want marine Ick - it's a tankbuster. I know I've had it and it's a very lngthy and expensive process to save very few fish as most don't survive. Take your 5 favorite on your list and make that work. I'm not saying that 13 is impossible just not practical.
Also forget about VHO's and T12's- VHO is old tech and goin' the way of th dinosaur do to it's higher electrical demand and very low bulb life. T12's are better suited for factories than fishtanks. The gov. will pay to replace flourecents with T12 in factories but the reality with fish tanks the power curve doesn't match up. A t5 bulb holds it's output with little loss for a year. T12 starts losing intensity output within 3 mo. This dramatic intensity lose over a short period of time increases the likeliness of an obnouxious algae or cyano outbreak. Stabilty is key.
Also forget about VHO's and T12's- VHO is old tech and goin' the way of th dinosaur do to it's higher electrical demand and very low bulb life. T12's are better suited for factories than fishtanks. The gov. will pay to replace flourecents with T12 in factories but the reality with fish tanks the power curve doesn't match up. A t5 bulb holds it's output with little loss for a year. T12 starts losing intensity output within 3 mo. This dramatic intensity lose over a short period of time increases the likeliness of an obnouxious algae or cyano outbreak. Stabilty is key.
If you are going to be using glass lids you will have to keep an eye on tank temp depending on what lights you chose as the glass will stop the evaporation cooling on the tank and decrease oxygen exchange.
The grouper will have to be smaller than the other as it will try and eat the others. Also some of the wrasse's get quite big themselves. IME you could start the tank with the list you want if they are small but when they get bigger you will have to get rid of some of them which means you will have to most likely tear the tank down to get them out depending on how much rock you have.
I have seen a red coris wrasse about 12" and it moved around alot. Also research the order you should add the fish as I have read the banana wrasse will be aggressive to new fish.
You could also put some of your live rock in the sump if you have space to keep more swimming room in the DT.
The grouper will have to be smaller than the other as it will try and eat the others. Also some of the wrasse's get quite big themselves. IME you could start the tank with the list you want if they are small but when they get bigger you will have to get rid of some of them which means you will have to most likely tear the tank down to get them out depending on how much rock you have.
I have seen a red coris wrasse about 12" and it moved around alot. Also research the order you should add the fish as I have read the banana wrasse will be aggressive to new fish.
You could also put some of your live rock in the sump if you have space to keep more swimming room in the DT.
Okay. I'll take everything into consideration and all but when I look around I see tons of other people with tanks with way more fish than mine will have. Just go browse through the media lounge. I'll take off the dragon and a few others. I think I'll probably start with the lion, grouper, eel, and maybe a wrasse or two and see how my parameters are looking. The list was an eventual stock not an all at once. Some of the fish probably won't be put in for over a year
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I had not heard that about banana wrasse. I'll take them off the list. The sump will have a live rock refugium section that is around the size of a 20 long or 30 gallon and hopefully around a 15-20 gallon tall approximately live rock rubble section that will both be filled to the max. The sump will go, intake with sock and bioballs->rubble->refugium->skimmer and output compartment that will also have a bag of carbon and eventually a uv sterilizer. The display tank will hopefully have around 100-120 lbs of rock and the sump around 40-60 of Rock/rubble. Any little tips about fish compatibility at this point would be greatly appreciated.
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