Two words: sponge filters. They compliment my fx5 quite nicely, and do pretty much everything mentioned above with the powerhead comments plus have the added benefit of being massive bio filters.
125 gal, filtration and setup opinions appreciated
- Thread starter K626
- Start date
I appreciate the feedback. I already have the fx5, so getting two other filters is kinda mute. I have two koralia powerheads that will be at each end of the tank to keep the water moving. I will also have two different places in the tank with air to help with o2 exchange. I'm torn right now with substrate. I like the look of tahitian moon sand, I just find it difficult to keep plants sitting where I want them.
What is everyones experience with the hydor ario air pumps with the LEDs? I like the look of lit bubbles, but was wondering how exactly it worked, and how reliable they are?
What is everyones experience with the hydor ario air pumps with the LEDs? I like the look of lit bubbles, but was wondering how exactly it worked, and how reliable they are?
That's something else I was wondering about. I have 3 stealth heaters on my tanks at the moment. I love them. They've stood up to my Jag and his abuse, as well as my oscars and their mayhem. I've recently heard some not so nice things about them, can someone fill me in on what's been happening with them? New ones or old ones? And if they are no longer reliable, which heaters would be the best that are NOT glass? 
A lot of people have had the stealth heater explode for seemingly no reason. Some have exploded violently enough to shatter the glass of the aquarium so many people (myself included) steer clear of them now.
As for the air with leds. It works like you think it does... The air comes into the unit right above the led. When you plug in the LED it lights up the water and bubbles above it. Just note you will need both the airline and power line running to it so it will add one more wire on the back of your tank that is not needed.
I also disagree with your assessment to need only one filter. Sure the FX5 can handle that much water according to the chart but then you have the outlet and inlet in one area of the tank. Regardless if you have powerheads or not you will have a deadspot on the other side of your tank IMHO where your parameters could spike. If you only want to use the one FX5 then I would plumb it in to have two inputs (one on each side of the tank) and a return in the center that is split to push water/debris to each inlet. The powerheads I would then use to hit any deadspots where debris is sitting...
As for the air with leds. It works like you think it does... The air comes into the unit right above the led. When you plug in the LED it lights up the water and bubbles above it. Just note you will need both the airline and power line running to it so it will add one more wire on the back of your tank that is not needed.
I also disagree with your assessment to need only one filter. Sure the FX5 can handle that much water according to the chart but then you have the outlet and inlet in one area of the tank. Regardless if you have powerheads or not you will have a deadspot on the other side of your tank IMHO where your parameters could spike. If you only want to use the one FX5 then I would plumb it in to have two inputs (one on each side of the tank) and a return in the center that is split to push water/debris to each inlet. The powerheads I would then use to hit any deadspots where debris is sitting...
soulpatch;4599225; said:
I figured that the Ario would need an airline going out of the tank to supply it with air, the tubing isn't a problem for me, I'm usually pretty good at hiding stuff like that.
I was thinking if I put the inlet and output in the center, I could put the powerheads on either side and minimize dead spots, or intake on one side, output on the other and keep put the powerheads under the output to keep a single "river like" current in the tank.
I've looked at the fluval 404, ac110, and the xp4 as secondary filters (not sure I really want two, but it will cut down on filter maintenence). I've heard lots of things about all of these. The ac110 is a HOB filter, and I'm not so sure I really want one of those considering I'm vertically challenged and I have to get on a step stool just to turn my lights on/off.
If I were to put two filters on this tank, which is better, the 404 or the xp4? I've read a lot but I'm just kind of in limbo. Also, what would be the best positioning for intake/output for both filters in the tank?You said the stealth heaters have EXPLODED? WTH?
So, no stealth heaters, not risking that with this baby. What heater should I go with then? I'm not a fan of glass heaters, I've had them explode in my tanks from my fish banging them and it's not pretty, at all.
Sorry for all the questions, this is one of my dream tanks and I want to get it right the first time, considering all I've had to filter until now are 55gal tanks. 
Well if you get the Rena XP4 then you can get the Rena heater that is also the intake for the filter. I use it on my XP4. On the FX5 side of the tank I have a Fluval heater by the outlet of the FX5 and it works great as well. My oscars can hit them all they want but they are shatter proof and built like tanks.
I tend to like the Rena line of filters over the Fluval. You get more filtration and more GPH for the same price. I also think the XP line is better built then the Fluval filters but it really all comes down to personal preference.
It is hard to tell you how and where to place your input and output as a lot of it has to do with how you decorate your tank. I tend to always have my inputs towards the corners of the tanks and the outputs along the back wall blowing water in various directions to hit the deadspots. Though I do need to add a powerhead as my driftwood and the pile of sand from my catfish moving it is causing a deadspot.
Tanks are a bit of trial and error with placement of equipment. You have to see what your fish will do and watch for deadspots and then make adjustments. Your idea for a riverlike current works if you dont have stuff in the tank but once you start adding in driftwood and such then you will find a ton of deadspots. Also with only one filter you will be cleaning it quite a bit depending on the stocking you do. I know I am cleaning either the FX5 or the XP4 each month to keep up with my stocking...
I tend to like the Rena line of filters over the Fluval. You get more filtration and more GPH for the same price. I also think the XP line is better built then the Fluval filters but it really all comes down to personal preference.
It is hard to tell you how and where to place your input and output as a lot of it has to do with how you decorate your tank. I tend to always have my inputs towards the corners of the tanks and the outputs along the back wall blowing water in various directions to hit the deadspots. Though I do need to add a powerhead as my driftwood and the pile of sand from my catfish moving it is causing a deadspot.
Tanks are a bit of trial and error with placement of equipment. You have to see what your fish will do and watch for deadspots and then make adjustments. Your idea for a riverlike current works if you dont have stuff in the tank but once you start adding in driftwood and such then you will find a ton of deadspots. Also with only one filter you will be cleaning it quite a bit depending on the stocking you do. I know I am cleaning either the FX5 or the XP4 each month to keep up with my stocking...
over filtering is always better,i tried one filter on a tank along time ago and learned the hard way. I had a power outage and when the power came back on the one filter never started back up for some unknown reason,and needless to say i was at work and by the time i got home the water had spiked and i lost alot of my prize fish,since then i have learned my lesson i never run less than three forms of filtration,my current 125 eartheater tank i run(fx5,2xac110's) and my other 125 ca tank i run(marineland c-360,30 gallon sump 600gph,and1xac110)my 180 gallon show tank i run(65 gallon sump1200gph,1xac110,and fx5)and both my 75 gallons i run(eheim pro2,ac110,and hydro5 sponge filters on each tank)i also run two air stone(large ones)in each tank. Needless to say i have never lost a fish due to water quality or one filter not working ever again,and filter maintenece is a blessing. btw i use stealth heaters in all my tanks old and new ones for over 6 years now and have never had a problem(explosion or failure)my oldest is 6 years old and still keeps my temp stable,only other heater i would consider over a stealth would be a jager.
I still vote for the sponge filters... They are by far the most economical of your choices, but as far as Rena goes, I own two xp3s and hate them! Both of mine have air purging issues, and they were bought at separate times, one new and one used.
If only sponge filters didnt look like...well....sponge filters. lol
Shame on your XP3s. I believe you are the first I have heard that has had issues with them. I know with my FX5 I have had to change it to be full biological with simply the rack edge sponges or else I get serious micro bubbles. No polishers, finer sponges, purigen, or anything. Just bio in the trays...
Shame on your XP3s. I believe you are the first I have heard that has had issues with them. I know with my FX5 I have had to change it to be full biological with simply the rack edge sponges or else I get serious micro bubbles. No polishers, finer sponges, purigen, or anything. Just bio in the trays...
