125 gal into 40 breeder??

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
astrocreep said:
I guess as a safety you could always put a one way valve between the pump and the 125 because in the event of an outage it would stop the backflow into the pump.

But like you said, the125 is only going to overflow into the 40 until it hits the lowest level of the "waterfall spout". So if you make sure that the water levels in both tanks are at the correct height, plus water volume in the canister/pump or sump, then a one way valve preventing the backflow into and through the pump would be the only other piece to assure no catastrophes.........right?
Click to expand...

I suppose you could use a canister, I would place it below everything instead of above. Almost all canister filters rely on gravity to maintain flow. If it is above the water line, you would struggle to get the pump circulating correctly. Those little pumps inside are designed to push water, not really to pull.

A lot of pumps used for aquarium application work the same. They push water really well but not draw it in.

If you look at almost all aquarium filtration setups, even HOBs the pump is always below the waterline. If/when it is above, the water flow is greatly deminished.

As far as needing a one way valve on the return line, you shouldn't need it. On the other hand redundancies can't hurt.

Just make sure the spout to the return is either at/above the surface of the water, or you put a syphon break (drill a small hole close to the surface). It will draw in air at that spot and stop it automatically.
 
astrocreep said:
Heres basically what Im talking about.

View attachment 1347744
Click to expand...

In your schematic, i would leave the 40b water level a little lower to accomodate the overflow from the 125. For when power is shut off. As i said before. Since there is nowhere for the water to go it will drain through gravity into the lower tank. Potentially flooding it. So ensure the water level in the smaller tank is low enough for the water volume.

Look at sumps and how they are designed on youtube. It will help you understand what i am talking about. There will always be the water volume in your hoses tha has to go somehwere. And the water pressure will always want to balance out. In order to accomodate it, you have to take precUtions to prevent a disaster.

In your schematic, you have the intake and out take to the canister well below the water line. As i explained above, it won't work properly like that. Placing the filter below the tank could cause flooding. Water will be displaced through the lines in reverse into the 40b without the syphon break i described. You would need the 40b to be able to contain the displaced water until that break happned though.
 
I stagger tanks all the time, running one into another, into another, into another, but they all usually drain to a central sump, with a pump that recirculates the water back to the top tank, usually have 5 or more tanks on each sump.

I would hesitate to use a canister to do it though, usually drilling tanks to avoid the potential over flow, or power stoppage situations. And because I find canister pumps and filters to be very inefficient compared to sumps, and high flow pumps.[/URL
Putting refugiums at higher elevations in windows that are teed off from the main line, with heavy planting that act as nitrate filters are also feasible.

 
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cwindless said:
I suppose you could use a canister, I would place it below everything instead of above. Almost all canister filters rely on gravity to maintain flow. If it is above the water line, you would struggle to get the pump circulating correctly. Those little pumps inside are designed to push water, not really to pull.

A lot of pumps used for aquarium application work the same. They push water really well but not draw it in.

If you look at almost all aquarium filtration setups, even HOBs the pump is always below the waterline. If/when it is above, the water flow is greatly deminished.

As far as needing a one way valve on the return line, you shouldn't need it. On the other hand redundancies can't hurt.

Just make sure the spout to the return is either at/above the surface of the water, or you put a syphon break (drill a small hole close to the surface). It will draw in air at that spot and stop it automatically.
Click to expand...
Yeah I just drew it above it cause there was room on the paper up there haha.

I would build a custom stand and put everything underneath it.
 
I appreciate all the replies. This could be an interesting build. I'd like to do something different than the norm.

I had to back out of the 125 gallon deal though, at least for another month. Couldn't justify spending the money right now. I just had to dump $2,500 into car repairs. ouch

I'd still like to hear ideas though, keep em coming
 
Now I got the bug to butt my two 75s together and build a fish bridge between them.

I can't keep buying tanks right now, other priorities.

But I can always modify what I already have.

Anyone have a nice fish bridge build?
 
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