150 gal sump eshopps/jebao dct

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I would consider lowering the water level a little bit or repoisitioning the media. I'd want the water to have a more direct route across the media. Looks like you've got several inches of water above the media.

So i moved the bio around was able to get a good portion of it to cover the intake of the pump. Is it ok to run the pump like this ? Meaning cover by the bio
20160328_201550.jpg 20160328_201546.jpg
 
Just get a cheap power head and put that in the sump. Water movement in the sump is good. Keeps water moving around the bio-media, too. When I set my sump up, the water was just too calm, so I put power heads in my sump.

Keeps my rubber ducky from getting scummy, too.

You do have a rubber ducky in that sump, right? GOT to have that, for sure.
 
Don't worry. That sump's gonna work just fine.
 
Just get a cheap power head and put that in the sump. Water movement in the sump is good. Keeps water moving around the bio-media, too. When I set my sump up, the water was just too calm, so I put power heads in my sump.

Keeps my rubber ducky from getting scummy, too.

You do have a rubber ducky in that sump, right? GOT to have that, for sure.

Power heads a good idea man thx.

Nah no rubber ducky....wouldnt be right without you're blessing
 
I never like to directly block or impede the intake of a centrifugal pump, with media or anything other than a sponge (which is then cleaned almost daily). Impeding intake flow can lead to cavitation, which can ruin pumps pitting impellers and burning out motors. Centrifugal pumps are designed to have out flow throttled back, but not the intakes.
I believe this is one of the reasons canisters so easily cavitate making crackling, rattling noises. Mulm builds up, the pump is starved, cavitation occurs (cavitation is where air saturated in water, disassociates with the water and collapses into the impeller).
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com