175G DAS Reseal plus modification

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Finished scraping the insides, took some steel wool and acetone to all surfaces and I hope all the silicone is gone. I can't see or feel anymore except the structural between the glass. Taped and ready to lay down some funky beads. :rolleyes:I am borrowing some industrial air fans used in water mitigation for drying houses next weekend to air the garage out as we silicone the tank back up.

The glass for the tank is 3/8" so I left room for 3/8" overlap on either side of every seam. I have not yet decided if I am going to insert the glass rods in the gaps between the hex panels but am leaning away from doing so. I taped the outside as well leaving a millimeter overhang although I am not sure of this is necessary and may just go back and tape the glass right to the edge.

When we go to seal(planning at least 2 if not 3 person job) I think we will run the four outside seams first, clean them with a straight edge then run the inside seams, smooth them either with a tool or gloved finger and then plop a couple of silicone plugs on a piece of acrylic or cardboardand place them in the bottom of the tank and cut one a week later to gauge the cure time.

Let me know if you have any thoughts on the tape job or suggestions on moving forward.

The clean up looks good! :D

As I mentioned previously I recently moved my tank into my new place after after it spent a few months in storage and the clean up process you have pictured and described is exactly the process that I just went through myself. The good news is that I can tell you now that my tank is filled and in its beginning stages of cycling!

While I did not have to fill the gaps you are having to fill in the front (my structural silicone was still there) I did replace the silicone on every interior seem of my tank, the same way you are doing now. The silicone I used was: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19108

As far as actually doing the job: it was a 2 man job, although I'm sure an extra man wouldn't have hurt.

Basic breakdown of how I did it -

I started at the front right hex corner, ran silicone up the vertical and across the bottom edge to the next corner, ran the vertical, then ran about 6" across the main front pane. At that point I smoothed everything by finger (up to the last 4 or 5" of the front pane bead) then continued across the front all the way to the left hex vertical, repeated the first corner then worked my way across the back around to the corner I started at. I did not run a bead across the top, only the bottom and verticals. I also had a buddy of mine follow me with about a 5 min delay pulling the tape from all of the areas that I had smoothed out by finger. The final product came out looking great but you have to work pretty fast with this method, making sure you can still smooth and shape the silicone with your finger after you have laid it everywhere it needs to be and still allow yourself time to start and smooth the next section (difficult with large tanks for sure but do-able) a third man to smooth while one guy lays silicone and another pulls tape would be great for this!

I know it's not rocket science and I'm probably over explaining it and that might not be how you decide to tackle it, I just figured I'd share since our tanks are so similar in nature ;) I can imagine that the bottom seam that you have to deal with across the center of your tank will make the job a bit harder!

Still not sure how I feel about the glass rods... I mean, I understand the idea, I'm just not sure if it would make the corner any stronger; however, I'm not an engineer or have I tried it for myself, so I can't really weigh in with any sort of truly educated opinion on it.

Again, good luck and make sure to keep us updated!
 
Definitely going three man, one to lay down the bead, one to smooth behind and one to remove tape. As big as the tank is and with the braces and wood frame being kinda in the way I feel that will cut the most headache from the day.

As for the center seam I am thinking of treating the inside of the tank as if it were two smaller tanks. I believe we will work from a back corner around the front to that center seam then along the back and connect to the starting point. Then I will start from the center seam and work my way to the other side of the tank.

What I am not sure yet about doing is how I am going to handle the four outside seams. And I mean that coming from "new silicone doesn't adhere to old silicone" adage. The following is from the "Caulk Your Home" GE FAQ:

Can I apply new silicone on old silicone?
For the best adhesion, we recommend removing the old silicone. New silicone will bond to old silicone, but the bond is not as strong as if it is adhered to a clean surface. If you choose to apply over old silicone, the warranty is void.

And from this FAQ on RTV silicone:

Sealant normally “skins over” in 5 minutes, dries to touch in 1 hour, and cures & bonds in 24 hours. Allow 7 day cure time to reach maximum strength.

Reading those two sounds like I have anywhere between five minutes and one hour to make the four outside seams look the best they can and still get the best adhesion to the interior sealing. The question is if they are structural and the interior are simply sealant seams then adhesion to the small gap on the inside should be sufficient at the "bond not as strong" level, one would think?

So, perhaps a flat edge on the inside gap to stop the outside bead from pushing too far in and allowing for a flat point, remove the flat edge and then start the interior work as described above? Or bead and smooth the outside, tool the inside to scrape any excess up the interior of the seam and start the interior from the four hex corners? Hmm....
 
Definitely going three man, one to lay down the bead, one to smooth behind and one to remove tape. As big as the tank is and with the braces and wood frame being kinda in the way I feel that will cut the most headache from the day.

As for the center seam I am thinking of treating the inside of the tank as if it were two smaller tanks. I believe we will work from a back corner around the front to that center seam then along the back and connect to the starting point. Then I will start from the center seam and work my way to the other side of the tank.

What I am not sure yet about doing is how I am going to handle the four outside seams. And I mean that coming from "new silicone doesn't adhere to old silicone" adage. The following is from the "Caulk Your Home" GE FAQ:



And from this FAQ on RTV silicone:



Reading those two sounds like I have anywhere between five minutes and one hour to make the four outside seams look the best they can and still get the best adhesion to the interior sealing. The question is if they are structural and the interior are simply sealant seams then adhesion to the small gap on the inside should be sufficient at the "bond not as strong" level, one would think?

So, perhaps a flat edge on the inside gap to stop the outside bead from pushing too far in and allowing for a flat point, remove the flat edge and then start the interior work as described above? Or bead and smooth the outside, tool the inside to scrape any excess up the interior of the seam and start the interior from the four hex corners? Hmm....

...I thought about this as well.

I was able to utilize my old structural silicone but if I hadn't then I probably would have repaired that first, then completed all of the interior seems. I am definitely aware that new silicone doesn't adhere to old silicone worth a hoot but when applying interior seems, you aren't really adhering to the structural seems themselves, only providing a "skin" for them that goes across both panes of glass that they join.

Maybe it would be best to repair the open areas first? You could possibly tape the inside corners completely, so that no new silicone gets inside the tank at the seems and add the needed structural silicone from the exterior, give it time to dry and give the inside a once over before doing the interior seems? (same as I assume your doing now with every seam that isn't needing repair)

I hadn't built a tank from scratch and if I did you'd better believe I'd do my best to get the corners to line up better than they do on both of our tanks, however if they didn't, then I'd probably stick to finishing my structural seems first then adding my finish once that was done and cleaned up.
 
Any updates on this?
 
Funny enough, I thought about dropping a line this AM... Little League Baseball season and other kid-centric end of school year items have had my evenings and weekends tied up pretty tight the past few weeks so this was set on the back burner. That and locking down some sir movers from a family acquaintance and a helper as well. I may give the four corners a solid look this weekend since I have Monday off if my proposed help is also off.

The plan is to use the glass rods I mentioned earlier and tape them to the inside of the four open seams with the points(top of the triangle) wedged in and blocking off the inside of the seam. That way I can silicone without worrying about too much getting inside the tank to be scraped off later. I will do two and then pull the rods and re-position them for the other two as quickly as possible so the silicone doesn't adhere to the rods.

Once that is done I will give about two weeks of cure time(going out of town the first weekend of June) before doing the interiors.
 
Funny enough, I thought about dropping a line this AM... Little League Baseball season and other kid-centric end of school year items have had my evenings and weekends tied up pretty tight the past few weeks so this was set on the back burner. That and locking down some sir movers from a family acquaintance and a helper as well. I may give the four corners a solid look this weekend since I have Monday off if my proposed help is also off.

The plan is to use the glass rods I mentioned earlier and tape them to the inside of the four open seams with the points(top of the triangle) wedged in and blocking off the inside of the seam. That way I can silicone without worrying about too much getting inside the tank to be scraped off later. I will do two and then pull the rods and re-position them for the other two as quickly as possible so the silicone doesn't adhere to the rods.

Once that is done I will give about two weeks of cure time(going out of town the first weekend of June) before doing the interiors.

Sounds like a plan, although moving the rods mid silicone does sound like it could be a P.I.T.A. Also, I totally understand the free time thing... it seems like time is what I have the absolute least of lately.

Make sure to keep us updated, I'd definitely dig seeing this work out for you :)
 
Sounds like a plan, although moving the rods mid silicone does sound like it could be a P.I.T.A.

The way I am thinking it should have a very minimal contact with the silicone so they will either just slide up and away and maybe cause a small peak to form which will just wedge better into the seam or I will simply slide a razor blade down the point to easily disengage them.
 
Four outside seams completed. Kept a minimal amount of silicone out of the inside of the tank using the glass rods as mentioned above. In a week or so I will cut and clean that little bit out and seal the insides.

In the 4th and 5th from the last pictures you'll see the first two seams I did which do appear to have some small air bubbles in them. If I have to I will cut those two seams out and redo them but I don't really want to. Any thoughts on how detrimental to success those may be?

And damn that silicone began to skin quickly.

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OK, so summer and three months have come and gone. Guess it is time for an update. About a month ago I resealed the inside seams of the tank and got a bit upset with my helper who laid down the bead while I smoothed it out. I felt he didn't lay it as thick as I wanted so I kind of turned my head toward other projects thinking I was going to have to strip and reseal this thing all over again.

So, yesterday I decide to leak test it. Stupid me filled it 1/3rd of the way up outside by the front door not realizing I should probably put it on the stand and do a 1/4-1/3 every few days.

The pictures here are ones I took while it was on the front walk and then we emptied it, moved it to the stand and filled it back up. Happy to report that as of right now there are no leaks. I am going to add another 1/3rd of water maybe Wednesday and once full let it sit for a week.

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