24 gallon saltwater tank. really cool tank!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
ive got about 2 whole peices of live in there on top of the limestone. its VERY porous, and i have small peices of the lr scattered throughout the tank. since i got it setup 2 weeks ago the coraline has really brightened up on the lr and has started to spread to the uncured. and in regards to the lighting system, the picture does no justice for how bright it actually is. my fiance actually complained becuz the light was keeping her awake while she was in a completely different room down the hall. i closed the door to solve that problem. lol. but it is very bright. but to humor you and for my own benefit, where can i even get oine of those meters? ive never seen them at my lfs.
 
komodo182;4422726; said:
You be getting nitrates sometime. I would worry if you don't.
I'm am not a salt keeper, just treating it like a freshwater tank.
You're right. He should be seeing some diatom bloom or an explosion in algae growth. The only reason why I tolerate the algae in my 55 is because it soaks up nitrates before I can even measure them on a test.

My 55 is ugly though....
 
well im away at work for 3 days at a time, at which point my fiance takes care of the feeding. its on an automated timer. Q: IF my lights are not as bright as they need to be, will keeping them on for longer periods during the day substitue for its lack in brightness? speaking in the sense of a coral or 2 and a bta. this is a hypethetical Q btw so dont light me up for it.
 
Answered on another thread, but...I dont think so. I think you should really look into your lighting and try and find out exact specs on what you have on your tank.
 
ill be home later 2moro but im on the computer now so ill try to do some research in the meantime.
 
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]White: [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]wavelength-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]x=0.265; y=0.26[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Luminous Intensity per LED-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1400-2000mcd[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]current draw-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3 LED 20mA-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6 LED 40mA[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]deg. veiw angle-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]120° [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Blue: [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]wavelength-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]470 nm[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]luminous intensity per LED-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]600-800 mcd[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]current draw-3 LED 20mA-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6 LED 40mA[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]deg. veiw angle-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]120° [/FONT]

i have 4 strips, 2 blue and 2 white. each strip has 15 LEDs attached making 60 total LEDs. i dont understand much of this in fish terms. just car. help please
 
anybody?
 
white light:
based on the candella range, it will be 120 to 186 lumens

actinic/blue (wavelength is a smigen too long for actinic):
based on candella range, it will be 30 to 37 lumens

giving a total range of 150 lumens to 223 lumens, which is worse then the output of a standard CF bulb. I understand that different types of lighting have different PAR, even if they all had the same lumen output, but I just dont think that is going to cut it.

If you are going to try and keep corals, start out with the lowest light demanding coral, and the cheapest one at that.

If you are really serious about keeping corals, blow 60 bucks on a two bulb t5ho fixture from aquatraders.com and then replace the bulbs (because they suck). That should do the trick and allow you to do most corals (other then acros and montis).
 
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