250 gallon plywood glass.

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Yeah it was cloth. Thanks for the info.

Can you post a picture of how bad it looks? Is the rough part on one panel or the entire interior?

Otherwise, watch some tutorial videos and get a metal roller. Make sure you don't activate your polyester to the point that it gels up quickly.
 
Well when it was wet I pulled the cloth off, now I have just poly resin on the wood with no cloth at all. My fear is that it won't stick to the wood over time. So now i'm chipping, grinding, and sanding it all off. 36 ounces worth.
 
Well when it was wet I pulled the cloth off, now I have just poly resin on the wood with no cloth at all. My fear is that it won't stick to the wood over time. So now i'm chipping, grinding, and sanding it all off. 36 ounces worth.

It's not that it won't stick it's that without the reinforcement the resin could craze and crack and peel away. If you're able to get a good layer of more resin and cloth over your original layer you will essentially keep the original layer from falling apart. My bigger concern is how rough your current layer is and if you'll get a good bond to that.

My bigger concern is that if you try to grind down to bare wood you'll still have an irregular surface to bond to. You won't be gaining much if that's the case.
 
You should leave the resin and apply the fiberglass cloth over it. But first you need to grind down the resin so it get a rough surface and better bond for your fiberglass cloth. http://www.bodico.com/ this is the tools you need if you want a flat surface for fiberglass. You also need lots of acetone as well.
 
If you look at my most recent build I used 3x layers of mesh drywall tape in the corners and none in the flats of the walls, its not as strong but WAY better to work with. Its sticky so it just lays right down to the plywood then you paint over it..... I think it still adds plenty of strength but it will also depend on how your box is built.
As for the other resin that's already on the tank. I would sand it smooth wipe it with denatured alcohol and paint another coat right over it

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I appreciate all the input. I think my plan of action is to remove all the existing poly resin, then tape the corners with mesh tape. After that im going to epoxy paint the whole tank. I was thinking maybe after i set the glass i could coat the inside of the tank with a rubberized coating. Do you guys know what i could paint on the outside of the tank to waterproof it? I dont really care what it looks like because i'm goint to cover the whole tank in Trim. Once again thanks for all the input and if you have any more suggestions please let me have them. I will be posting a build thread when i get past this bump.
 
Coat the top braces of the tank and around the outside of tour bulkhead holes but don't paint the outside. If you do get a leak you'll want the wood to air out asap and if you have the outside painted it will be more likely to rot the wood and you'll end up with a blow out instead of just a simple leak

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Well i think i got most of the polyresin off. There is some on the corners, but i'm going to be going the mesh tape route there, so hopefully it's not a problem. For anyone that might make the same mistake i did, and not do enough research into fiberglass, I use a heat gun and a scraper to scrape where i couldn't sand, a belt sander with 40 grit paper to sand the big areas, a mouse sander for the corners, a round orbital sander to smooth out the wood where it was needed, and last but not least a a grinder with a flapper wheel to take off the thick parts of the resin.
 
Poly resin is very similar to epoxy to work with. Just have about 20 min more work time. Poly resin is also stronger (from what I understand) you may want to glass or "mesh tape" the corners with cheaper/ stronger poly resin to work all your bugs out before you start working with the epoxy. That's just what I would do and did on my tank

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