300 Gallon Newt Pond

NathanKS

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So I know this isn't fish related, but I feel this is the best forum for this build thread since my other usual locations are very slow and the people unlikely to have ever built on this scale.

This project will present some unique problems, the largest of which will be keeping the entire system chilled as I MUST keep all my animals under 23*c or they will perish, thus operating temperature will be 20*c. The second will be flow, these newts come from the Laos cloud forests and are accustomed to quick moving streams. Thirdly, will be filtration, these are large newts that require perfect(to them) water and can produce LOTS of waste.

In the design of this tank I have been spending lots of time on DIY, sting rays, and cold water since they all have parts to them that are necessary for this build. If you have another subforum I should start reading, please let me know.

I will be building a main 300 gallon pond for my Laotriton Laoensis (Laos Newts). I will also be building a ~150 gallon sump/trickle filter, a 100 gallon pond to raise youngsters after their terrestrial phase, and building a refugium that can be converted during the efts terrestrial phase in a 4x4 hydro flood table connected to the main system.

For the main pond, the sump and the raising pond, I will be using rubbermade stock tubs. (tractor supply has their 300g on sale right now)
The Eft Flood table will be a generic white 4x4x8" flood table from a hydroponics store.

Current project: building sump, take pictures
 

NathanKS

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Dec 29, 2016
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Quick update: bulkheads installed

Sump started still waiting on parts for the k1 and scrubbiest though.

Pumps all bought on Black Friday.

Unhappy with the position of the flood tray, going to build a platform for it and have it partially over the sump. Other ideas would be appreciated.

A34918CD-0C32-4B35-9639-C62FCA5F55F3.jpeg
 

NathanKS

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Well since I cannot add to the above, I should mention that the 2x4 is only there to help determine where to place the flood table, The actual frame will be built of 2x12 and 4x4 covered by Thomson's waterproof deck sealer for the occasional splash. The flood table will also be the only thing that uses Flex PVC so that I can slide it ~1' to gain additional access the pond/sump. It has a bulkhead in the bottom that I will use pvc cuttings to raise/lower water as needed or to move it.

The plumbing has been slightly changed. I mis-read when buying the stocktank and thought it had a 2" drain. It is 1-1/2". I will be using a 2" bulkhead and piping to plumb the skimmer on the top but only using 1-1/2" for the floor drain and step up to 2" outside of the tank. As time goes on I am growing more uneasy that the floor drain wont have any suction, any thought on adding an inline pump between the main pond and the sump so that detris gets sucked up? I had planned on doing a ghetto aerated floor drain but it wont work if the tank doesn't pull water from it.

I am also redoing my trickle/vert filter design, 5 layers of 16x24 instead of 3 layers of 16x36, the smaller floor print will enable the flood tank to be shifter further to the right. It will also be fed from the sump now instead of from the skimmer. It is an extra pump but enables me to keep the pond and sump on the floor instead of building a platform.

Lighting for the flood table was also purchased friday. I bought a 12"x12" LED panel (white, red, blue)and will supplement it with 2 4' t5HO LED equivalents. It will be mounted via wire from the ceiling. LED moon lights in white and blue were also purchased. I didn't originally know where to place them but with a frame for the flood tank, I should have plenty of mounting locations.
I plan on using a LED panel for the main pond as well but have yet to decide on which one. It doesn't have to be rated for a planted aquarium since my newts are low light animals. Might just steal the kessel spot I have over my 75g gudgeon tank and replace that one.

if anyone has a link to how to size an airpump for a k1 reactor, it would be appreciated.
 

NathanKS

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Dec 29, 2016
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Laos newts hatch, spend 6 months or so in the water and then after metamorphosis spend a year or so on land before returning to the water. When they return to the water, they are only 1.5-2" long and would easily be eaten by the adults.

This setup is designed to house terrestrial phase newts in the flood table, young adults in the 100 gallon and adults in the 300g main pond. The metal rack you can barely see in the most recent photo normally has 12 20g Rubbermaid bins that I use for eggs and hatchlings, as it is not plumbed to the main pond, it isn't a part of this build thread.

The 100 gallon pond on this setup will eventually (next year about this time) be moved to its own system of 5x100(or150) gallon ponds and a similar sump to what I am building for the main pond (laos newts take about 5-7 years to reach sexual maturity, so one for every year of hatchlings)


The motivation for this project is I just got married at the beginning of the year and was "ordered" to move the newts out of the house (I had sirens in a bath tub for a period of time during our engagement). So I bought a commercial building, established a trust for the upkeep of my laos newts, and am now building out a setup to maintain a population for decades to come.
 
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krichardson

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I just looked them up and interesting looking newts.They remind me of the Emperor newts that I used to keep.
 
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NathanKS

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Laotriton are genetically rather similar to tylotriton (emperor newts) and pachytriton (paddle tail newts).

I also keep three species of tylotriton and a single species of pachytriton. Would love to get more but with the ban on all newt imports, that’s unlikely to ever happen.

If anyone is interested, I founded the laotriton working group on Facebook and have uploaded every study into their natural history I know of there.
 
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