380 gal needs plumbed
- Thread starter lisa1965
- Start date
maybe, but the dude lived in ca. moved to Spokane his friend was a tank builder supposed pro why would he give his friend an unfinished tank plus I noticed very bottom hole in front panel of weir box is 1/2 inch smaller than the other two above it and the 2'' hole in bottom of box is right smack dab in the middle not off center like you would put in more drill holes for returns hey thanks for your help
Yeah, your guess is as good as mine LOL. Hard to tell room available in the boxes for more holes. The 2" holes look centered, which makes me think they had no intent for more holes there...but then again we are trying to explain the 6 holes ;-)
that sounds like the easiest way .just want to get it right for the fish and health of the tank
I have shared how I drilled additional, equally spaced holes across and below my weir tooth to increase flow, but I don't think this was intended given how big the holes are and the locations.
is it possible to split up returns over the top and into the 6 holes 3 to each side I'm a newb to this, my other tanks are canisters over the top plumbing lol I jumped into the deep end of the pool
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You can do that, but you would want to make sure that you have a siphon break just below the water's surface so that when the pump is off you don't drain the entire display.
However, if you have some freak situation where you have a power outage and your siphon break becomes clogged/plugged, you could have a flood on your hands.
If it were me, I might use the highest hole in each tower as a return (using loc-line to bring the returns up even closer to the surface) and plug the lower two. Running the lower two for anything other than a closed loop would make me nervous.
However, if you have some freak situation where you have a power outage and your siphon break becomes clogged/plugged, you could have a flood on your hands.
If it were me, I might use the highest hole in each tower as a return (using loc-line to bring the returns up even closer to the surface) and plug the lower two. Running the lower two for anything other than a closed loop would make me nervous.
I should find someone local who knows what there doing and pay to have it plumbed for me cause i'll fk it up I just don't know enough until I watch someone do it still need to get a pump for this tank as well know anybody in Spokane area lol thanks so much even you guys are a little stumped
Although it may seem overwhelming if you have not done this, if you some basic skills mfk and YouTube are your best friends...just make sure you're following the right guidance.
Anytime you have return lines just assume your return pump WILL be off at some point, whether intended or accident. I also use check valves as extra precaution besides making sure my sump can handle the drain too. I just keep my loclines at the surface where the water will drain until it hits the lower part of the teethe on the weir.
Anytime you have return lines just assume your return pump WILL be off at some point, whether intended or accident. I also use check valves as extra precaution besides making sure my sump can handle the drain too. I just keep my loclines at the surface where the water will drain until it hits the lower part of the teethe on the weir.
Lisa you have a few options here. Those holes in the overflow towers are not common. Having said that you will need to do something about it or design the system so that it is not an issue even with them.
aldiaz33
gave some great advice.
Plugging the holes in the overflow would be best. Bulkhead fittings are cheap. You can pick up a 5 pack on Amazon for less that $25 shipped. I would buy thread x thread bulkheads and cap from the reverse side (inside the tower). That way there is a black bulkhead fitting on a black acrylic wall. They will hide themselves. Another alternative is to run open pipes up/vertically to the bottom of the teeth in the overflow tower. They would not serve a useful purpose but it would solve the tank overflowing issue in a cost effective way. Another option is to use acrylic tyo patvh over the holes. This is my least favorite approach to working with tank holes. Once it's patched it is in there for good. A bulkhead fitting can be removed later should you come up with with a design where those holes would serve a purpose.
Regarding the drain (holes at the bottom of the overflow tower) If it were my tank I would do this:
I would use that in whatever diameter bulkhead fitting the hole is already drilled for. Add a gate valve to that line so it can be adjusted to full siphon. I would then drill a hole in the back wall (not floor) of the tank with the hole on the inside of the overflow tower (critical importance that it is inside the overflow tower) in either 1.5" or 2". That can be your gravity drain with the option of a third hole for emergency drain. You can do a hybrid of a herbie or bean-animal concept with this approach.
aldiaz33
gave some great advice. Plugging the holes in the overflow would be best. Bulkhead fittings are cheap. You can pick up a 5 pack on Amazon for less that $25 shipped. I would buy thread x thread bulkheads and cap from the reverse side (inside the tower). That way there is a black bulkhead fitting on a black acrylic wall. They will hide themselves. Another alternative is to run open pipes up/vertically to the bottom of the teeth in the overflow tower. They would not serve a useful purpose but it would solve the tank overflowing issue in a cost effective way. Another option is to use acrylic tyo patvh over the holes. This is my least favorite approach to working with tank holes. Once it's patched it is in there for good. A bulkhead fitting can be removed later should you come up with with a design where those holes would serve a purpose.
Regarding the drain (holes at the bottom of the overflow tower) If it were my tank I would do this:
I would use that in whatever diameter bulkhead fitting the hole is already drilled for. Add a gate valve to that line so it can be adjusted to full siphon. I would then drill a hole in the back wall (not floor) of the tank with the hole on the inside of the overflow tower (critical importance that it is inside the overflow tower) in either 1.5" or 2". That can be your gravity drain with the option of a third hole for emergency drain. You can do a hybrid of a herbie or bean-animal concept with this approach.
