380 gal needs plumbed

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
^ to summarize the above & in short, your tank when viewing from the front panel will look as though this was never an issue and you can achieve whatever flow rate you desire. Plug the holes with bulkhead fittings and drill the back wall, inside the overflow tower for larger diameter plumbing.
 
Lisa, you got this. It's not difficult at all. Like DN328 mentioned, watch a few youtube videos on how to cut PVC pipe and glue fittings and you're set. It's not rocket surgery. =) If you're still uncomfortable working with PVC, you can use nylon tubing, barbed fittings and hose clamps. If your boyfriend is building a stand, he will have the skills to take on plumbing.

Justin (JK47) gave really good advice. He knows what's up. His suggestions are a little more advanced, but his ideas are definitely worth considering and still something you can take on yourself. Just be careful/thoughtful about your hole placements (make sure you leave enough room for the flange of the bulkhead...don't drill too close to the walls of the overflow tower). Beananimal or Herbie will be quiet and give you a lot of flexibility in regards to how much flow you run through the sump (aka turnover). If you are unsure, I would post a photo and ask on here.

In regards to pumps, it's typically better to run two smaller sized pumps than one large pump. This way, if one fails, the other will keep your system up and running until you are able to replace the pump that crapped out. Also, running two smaller pumps can often be more efficient (more flow per watt of electricity consumed) than running one monster pump. Smaller pumps are also typically less noisy.

If you like the idea of a lot of flow, I would run two Laguna Max-Flo 2400 pumps. According to Laguna's flow chart, that would give you a total of 3,328GPH @ 6' head on only 168 watts. That's getting you nearly 20GPH per watt, which is really good. You'd be hard pressed to find a more efficient pump setup that gives you nearly 9x turnover per hour. My only concern would be whether or not you can push that much flow through your overflow teeth. If it turns out to be too much flow for the teeth, you have a few options:
1.) run only one pump and keep the other as a back-up. You'll still get decent flow (4.3X/hour) and it'll cost you less on your electric bill.
2.) leave one of the holes in the side overflow tower open (I would use the lowest hole so that you are skimming from the surface and pulling water from the bottom). You can buy a bulkhead overflow strainer to prevent any fish from getting sucked into the hole- Bulkreefsupply.com has a low profile one that would be perfect: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/low-profile-bulkhead-overflow-strainers.html Since you'd be running a Beananimal or Herbie system, your standpipe height will determine how much water drains into your sump when your pump is off.
3.) knock out some of the overflow teeth (least favorite option for aesthetic reasons).

Another option in terms of pumps is going with the newer variable speed DC pumps. I have read mixed review on them, so caveat emptor. I can vouch for Lagunas...I've been running mine for 6 years with no issues.

A rookie mistake I see a lot of people making on here is buying the cheapest big pump they can find. The upfront cost is low, but some of these pumps are really inefficient and can end up adding $25/month or more to your power bill. That might not seem like a lot of money, but if you have the tank setup for 10 years, that's $3,000+ spent on electricity that you would have saved by going with a more efficient pump. So yeah, spending an extra hundred or two now isn't so bad when you factor in you'll be saving thousands of dollars on your electric bill in the long run. The more efficient pump will typically pay for itself in the first year. Stay away from Danner Mag Drive pumps, anything labeled as a sump or utility pump or spa pumps. They are all energy hogs that are going to shoot your electric bill through the roof.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress. Looking forward to seeing your tank setup!
 
Lisa you have a few options here. Those holes in the overflow towers are not common. Having said that you will need to do something about it or design the system so that it is not an issue even with them. aldiaz33 aldiaz33 gave some great advice.

Plugging the holes in the overflow would be best. Bulkhead fittings are cheap. You can pick up a 5 pack on Amazon for less that $25 shipped. I would buy thread x thread bulkheads and cap from the reverse side (inside the tower). That way there is a black bulkhead fitting on a black acrylic wall. They will hide themselves. Another alternative is to run open pipes up/vertically to the bottom of the teeth in the overflow tower. They would not serve a useful purpose but it would solve the tank overflowing issue in a cost effective way. Another option is to use acrylic tyo patvh over the holes. This is my least favorite approach to working with tank holes. Once it's patched it is in there for good. A bulkhead fitting can be removed later should you come up with with a design where those holes would serve a purpose.

Regarding the drain (holes at the bottom of the overflow tower) If it were my tank I would do this:
I would use that in whatever diameter bulkhead fitting the hole is already drilled for. Add a gate valve to that line so it can be adjusted to full siphon. I would then drill a hole in the back wall (not floor) of the tank with the hole on the inside of the overflow tower (critical importance that it is inside the overflow tower) in either 1.5" or 2". That can be your gravity drain with the option of a third hole for emergency drain. You can do a hybrid of a herbie or bean-animal concept with this approach.
I thought I would have to get more holes drilled I would like to have a drip and small over flow system plumbed to drain in floor drain to cut down on water changers maybe 1 to 2 gals an hour maybe more have to check water parameters to see what the tank will need for a water change once a month also that's why I got 160 gal. sump, wasn't sure if wet/dry or fluidized just new 380 needed a big sump all of you have been so awesome with advise I know I bought a weird one but the acrylic is in perfect condition I thought it was a good price I will get it sorted out with you all and youtube, I should have known those 6 holes were going to be a pain thanks guys !
 
Lisa, you got this. It's not difficult at all. Like DN328 mentioned, watch a few youtube videos on how to cut PVC pipe and glue fittings and you're set. It's not rocket surgery. =) If you're still uncomfortable working with PVC, you can use nylon tubing, barbed fittings and hose clamps. If your boyfriend is building a stand, he will have the skills to take on plumbing.

Justin (JK47) gave really good advice. He knows what's up. His suggestions are a little more advanced, but his ideas are definitely worth considering and still something you can take on yourself. Just be careful/thoughtful about your hole placements (make sure you leave enough room for the flange of the bulkhead...don't drill too close to the walls of the overflow tower). Beananimal or Herbie will be quiet and give you a lot of flexibility in regards to how much flow you run through the sump (aka turnover). If you are unsure, I would post a photo and ask on here.

In regards to pumps, it's typically better to run two smaller sized pumps than one large pump. This way, if one fails, the other will keep your system up and running until you are able to replace the pump that crapped out. Also, running two smaller pumps can often be more efficient (more flow per watt of electricity consumed) than running one monster pump. Smaller pumps are also typically less noisy.

If you like the idea of a lot of flow, I would run two Laguna Max-Flo 2400 pumps. According to Laguna's flow chart, that would give you a total of 3,328GPH @ 6' head on only 168 watts. That's getting you nearly 20GPH per watt, which is really good. You'd be hard pressed to find a more efficient pump setup that gives you nearly 9x turnover per hour. My only concern would be whether or not you can push that much flow through your overflow teeth. If it turns out to be too much flow for the teeth, you have a few options:
1.) run only one pump and keep the other as a back-up. You'll still get decent flow (4.3X/hour) and it'll cost you less on your electric bill.
2.) leave one of the holes in the side overflow tower open (I would use the lowest hole so that you are skimming from the surface and pulling water from the bottom). You can buy a bulkhead overflow strainer to prevent any fish from getting sucked into the hole- Bulkreefsupply.com has a low profile one that would be perfect: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/low-profile-bulkhead-overflow-strainers.html Since you'd be running a Beananimal or Herbie system, your standpipe height will determine how much water drains into your sump when your pump is off.
3.) knock out some of the overflow teeth (least favorite option for aesthetic reasons).

Another option in terms of pumps is going with the newer variable speed DC pumps. I have read mixed review on them, so caveat emptor. I can vouch for Lagunas...I've been running mine for 6 years with no issues.

A rookie mistake I see a lot of people making on here is buying the cheapest big pump they can find. The upfront cost is low, but some of these pumps are really inefficient and can end up adding $25/month or more to your power bill. That might not seem like a lot of money, but if you have the tank setup for 10 years, that's $3,000+ spent on electricity that you would have saved by going with a more efficient pump. So yeah, spending an extra hundred or two now isn't so bad when you factor in you'll be saving thousands of dollars on your electric bill in the long run. The more efficient pump will typically pay for itself in the first year. Stay away from Danner Mag Drive pumps, anything labeled as a sump or utility pump or spa pumps. They are all energy hogs that are going to shoot your electric bill through the roof.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress. Looking forward to seeing your tank setup!
 
that sounds like the right pump for me,, sump and pump are going into a store room behind tank. sump was to big to go under tank so noise will be cut down behind closed doors but paying $3,000 a year would suck
 
Don't know if you can see very well. But what I don't get is why only 1 2'' hole in each weir I get one side intake one side out take but its the 3 small 1'' holes in the front of weir's for power heads I think ,,,how to plumb with only that 2'' hole in bottom of weir wouldn't you have a few extra holes for returned water from sump to circulate on each side or can you split the 2'' into a 3 way for those 1'' holes I know I am really stupid when it comes to this stuff I should pay someone to do this for me. I got a deal on tank $900

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the holes in bottom of tank inside weirs are 3'' not 2'' the holes in front weir panel are 1 1/2 '' for the top two and bottom hole in weir box is 1''
 
I'm stumped...but unless there are not any other holes in the entire tank perhaps the 2" holes in each are for drains for the overflow. The only thing I can think for the 3 holes on each weir are for returns for a closed loop circulation...which explains the intent for flow. But, this would require an intake for the closed loop.
I think your right I've been doing a lot of reading and that's the closest I can come up with. I'm thinking I'll go over the top with returns and blowing it thru the the top 1 1/2 ''holes in the front panel of each wier and the bottom 1''with a strainer for extra intake for drain pipes unless, you all think that would be bad idea, and use both 3'' holes for drains. use 2 pumps one for each side/weir for return would that work?
 
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Depending on the fish your gonna keep I'd keep the holes in the overflow. Multiple return lines will make a good turn over for river fish ie Dorados, atf, payara. It's very easy to plumb. Have a manifold pipe ( a pipe with multiple hose barbs to go to each bulk ed) then use a check valve so it won't back flow and viola
 
I'm thinking of a pair of costa blue dovii for my 1st monster fish. if I can find a good breeder, my very 1st. fish I bought were 6 1'' flower horns and they were sick from the day I got them i.e...ick then hex then external parasite then internal parasites, I spent tons on meds and I only have one left and he's sickly still (parasites) did damage in his guts I think, so I'm Leary and don't know whos good, I'll look thru the vender list and watch the for sale fish cause I can travel a few hundred miles to pick up good heathy fish ..but that's a few months away, going to Spokane tomorrow to get the bulk heads and pipes ill order pumps tonight I think,, thanks to all you kind folks Lisa
 
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